At 10 we fell into the road which leads from Pergamos to Haivali; 5 hours from P. and 7 from H.

At 12 we stopped at a new Greek khan. Saw several carts, the first we have seen in Asia. In Scio and in Smyrna all burdens are carried by men, or by beasts of burden, on their backs. At 2 we set out again. A heavy rain soon commenced and continued till night. At 4, we passed a small Turkish village with two mosques; and then rode for some miles through a complete orchard of olive trees. From the produce of these trees immense quantities of oil are made, and exported from Haivali. After leaving this place we found our way mountainous and stony, Entered Haivali at 7, that is, in 25 hours, or about 75 miles from Smyrna. With some difficulty we found our way to a tavern; and after much delay and perplexity, obtained the use of a small apartment. A wooden platform covered one half of it, and this served us for chairs, table, and bed.

Description of Haivali.

Saturday, Nov. 4.-At an early hour Martino went to the Russian consul, with a letter given us by the Russian consul in Smyrna ; and he immediately sent his janizary to conduct us to his house. There we found a room ready for us, and every necessary comfort generously offered. Such hospitality is welcome indeed, after the fatigue of our journey.

At 1 o'clock the consul accompanied us to the college. The two principal instructers are Gregory and Theophilus, to whom we had a letter from Professor Bambas. They received us very affectionately. We gave them some tracts, and proposed to distribute others among the students on Monday, to which they very readily assented. The college, in its present form, was established about 20 years ago; it had previously existed, however, for a long time, on a smaller scale. There are now four Professors; and about 20 of the older scholars assist in teaching the younger classes. The whole number of students is 300; of whom not above 100 belong to Haivali. About 70 are ecclesiastics. This circumstance is peculiarly auspicious, the Greek priests as a body being extremely ignorant; yet almost all the schools in the country are under their instruction. The course of study seems, from the account given us, to be about the same as in Scio.The library contains between one and two thousand volumes. The college building forms a large square, (inclos

ing a garden, which the students culti vate,) and contains a library room, a philosophical laboratory, lecture rooms, apartments for the instructers, and a great number of smaller rooms for the students. The establishment is supported by the Greek community. No pupil pays any thing for his room, or his tuition.

Lord's Day, Nov. 5.-At 9 two students from the college called on us. To one of them, the only person we can hear of in town who reads English, we gave an English Bible. He expressed a great desire to obtain the whole bible in Greek. At 10, the Rev. Mr. Young, an English traveller, called on us; and soon after a Greek Archimandrite from Jerusalem, who now resides here. An Archimandrite is an officer in the church, above the common priests, but below the Bishops. Mr. Young has been for 15 years past in Russia. We had a long conversation about the religious state of Russia, Georgia, Greece, and Jerusalem; and about the distribution of the Scriptures and tracts and the establishment of schools. Mr. Young is going to visit Mytilene, and we gave him 50 tracts to distribute in that island.

In the afternoon, went out to distribute tracts among the priests. Every church has some small apartment adjoining it, in which the clergy live. Went to eight churches and distributed tracts among all the priests. There are 40 belonging to these 8 churches; they have also, at each church, a small school under their care, in which the children are taught to read the church service. Distributed, in all, 100 tracts. It is pleasant to scatter seed in this way, and then look to God for a blessing.

In the evening, Gregory and Theophilus came to see us. Had a long and agreeable conversation about Bible Societies, schools, and religion. Afterward, conversed sometime with the family, and two or three others, who were present. They seem to have no thoughts of inward piety, or of the strictness which belongs to the Christian character; and these were points to which we found it difficult to fix their attention.

Monday, Nov. 6.-Went with the consul to see Paesios, the Bishop of this district. His diocese includes Pergamos, Haivali and the surrounding country. He is under the Archbishop of Ephesus. His title is Bishop of Elaia, an ancient town, which does not now exist. We gave him a Testament and some tracts, and received from him a letter of introduction to nis agent in Pergamos.

Went to the college; conversed a

little while with the teachers; gave them a French and an Italian Testament, and 350 tracts for the students.

Haivali is situated on the sea shore, opposite to the island Musconisi, which lies between the town and the north part of Mytilene. Olives and oil are its principal productions. The streets

are

narrow and very dirty, and the houses mean. You see no elegance, and very little neatness. The Bishop, the consul, and the Professors, united in stating the population at 20,000 souls, all Greeks.

Journey from Haivali to Pergamos.

We gave orders in the morning for our horses to be ready at 11 o'clock; but both the horsemen were partially intoxicated, and it was almost 2 before we were able to set out. Departed, much indebted to the consul for his hospitality.

At half past six reached the khan where we dined on Friday.

Tuesday, Nov. 7. Left a few tracts with our landlord to be given to such as wish for them, and are able to read. Left the khan at half past seven. At 10, we saw, at a little distance, on our right, the smoke of a boiling spring, and went out to examine it. The pond of water is smaller, but the smoke is greater, the heat more intense, and the steam more strongly impregnated with sulphur, than at the one which we saw on Friday, a few miles south of this. Several smaller springs of the same kind are in sight.

Visit to Pergamos.

At 2, we reached Pergamos, now called Bergamo. Our road from Haivali has been generally level; the land verdant; several flocks of cattle and sheep in sight; 2 or 3 very small villages by the way; and a few scattered houses. We put up at a public khan. The Bishop's letter, and another from a Greek in Smyrna, introduced us to several persons, whose acquaintance was of use to us.

Went first to see the ruins of an old monastery The walls are still standing, as high as a four story house, and perhaps 150 feet long. In it there are now several Turkish huts. In passing through the town, we found two ancient Greek inscriptions, which we copied. Passed an immensely large building, formerly a Christian church, now a Turkish mosque. This is said to be the church, in which the disciples met, to whom St. John wrote. Wednesday, Nov. 8.-Went up to the August, 1821.

10

old castle, north of the town. Vast walls are still standing composed principally of granite, with some fine pillars of marble. The castle includes 5 or 6 acres of ground, and about half way down the hill is a wall, which includes several times as much. Within the castle are large subterranean reservoirs, which used to serve for water and provisions. Most of the walls are evidently not very ancient, and are said to be the work of the Genoese. The foundations, and a part of the wall, seem more ancient; and are said, perhaps with truth, to be the work of the ancient Greeks. Noticed several Corinthian capitals, and copied one Greek inscription. The castle furnishes a good view of the city. North and west of it are verdant, mountainous pastures; south and east a fertile plain. Nine or ten minarets speak the power of the false prophet.

Returned from the castle, and went to the site of an ancient theatre, west of the town. It is a semicircular cavity, in the side of a hill. The semicircle measures about 600 feet. Massy walls of granite are yet standing.

Went next to the amphitheatre. It is a deep circular valley, formerly no doubt filled with rows of seats rising one above another to enable the spectators to witness the fighting of beasts, or the destruction of men, on the arena, at the bottom of it.

Passed by what is said to be the tomb of Antipas near the old monastery. See Rev. ii, 13. We next visited a building, which is called the temple of Es culapius. It is a lofty vaulted dome, the inside about 40 feet in diameter; the granite wall about 8 feet thick. We remember to have seen it somewhere stated, that Esculapius once practised physic in Pergamos; that the inhabitants erected a temple to him, and offered sacrifices and adored him, as a god.

There is in Pergamos one synagogue, one Greek and one Armenian church. At the Greek church we found a school of 20 boys taught by a priest. Gave one tract to each boy, and seve ral to the master, which were received, as our tracts usually are, with many expressions of gratitude. The master

then went with us to visit the other priests. We showed them, in the Romaic Testament, the address to the church in Pergamos, which one of them read. We then gave them a Testament, and a number of tracts. Visited three other schools, and supplied them with tracts. One contained 25 scholars,

another 20, and the third a smaller number. Gave one of the teachers a Testament, in consequence of his earnest solicitations. A young Greek came to our lodgings and bought two Testa

ments.

The population of Pergamos is said to be about 15,000; viz. 1,500 Greeks, 2 or 300 Armenians, 100 Jews, and the rest Turks. The streets are wider and cleaner than any we have before seen in Asia.

As we are about to leave town, a man to whom we had a letter from Smyrna, brought us three fowls for our journey, and a letter of introduction to Immanuel, a friend of his, 3 hours on our way to Thyatira.

At half past one we left Pergamos : at three we crossed the Caicus, and pursued our way along the southern bank, through a fertile plain several miles wide, with verdant hills on the north and south, and several small villages at the foot of them. At half past nine we crossed the river again, and stopped for the night at the house of Immanuel. He is a Greek. His house stands on the river's bank with a mill in one end of it. We ascertained that five, out of 10 or 12 men about the mill, are able to read, and gave them tracts; we also gave a number to Immanuel for the priest and others.

Thursday, 9-Pursued our course along the same plain. In 4 hours passed through a considerable village called Soma. The inhabitants are principally Turks-about 70 families are Greeks. In two hours and a half from Soma we reached Kircagasch, and stopped for dinner. This town is situated at the foot of a high mountain of lime stone, called on the maps Temnus, on the south side of the plain. It is said to contain 10,000 inhabitants, (viz.) 8,000 Turks, 1,000 Greeks and 1,000 Armenians. There are 11 mosques, and one Greek, and one Armenian church. Left a number of tracts for the Greeks. At 3 o'clock we set out from Kircagasch, and pursued our way, at the foot of mount Temnus. Passed two small Turkish villages. The principal productions in this part of the country are grain, cotton, tobacco and pasturage for flocks. At one time we counted 500 cattle together attended by the herdsmen and their dogs; in another flock were about as many goats, and in others a still greater quantity of sheep.

Arrival at Thyatira.

At 8 o'clock we reached Thyatira, now Akhisar, and put up at a khan.

Immediately after we arrived, a heavy rain commenced. At Pergamos we were told, that within a few weeks 8 men have been killed by robbers, at different times, on the road between that place and this. We saw a man at Pergamos, who was attacked about 2 years ago, on this road, and left for dead. He still carries a scar in his cheek, in consequence of the wound which he then received. From all dangers, seen and unseen, God has mercifully preserved us. May our spared lives be wholly his. We read the address to the church in Thyatira, prayed to that God, whom saints of old worshipped in this place, and then retired to rest, commending this city, once beloved, to the compassion of our Redeemer.

Description of the City.

Friday, 10.-We had a letter of introduction from a Greek in Smyrna to Economo, the Bishop's procurator, and a principal man among the Greeks in this town. This morning we sent the letter, and he immediately called on us. He says the Turks have destroyed all remnants of the ancient church; and even the place where it stood is now unknown. At present, there are in the town 1,000 houses for which taxes are paid to the government, besides 2 or 300 small huts. There are about 350 Greek houses, and 25 or 30 belonging to Armenians. The others are all Turkish. There are 9 mosques, 1 Greek, and 1 Armenian church; 4 or 5 Greek priests, and 1 Armenian. The Greeks know something of the Romaic, and the Armenians of the Armenian language; but the common language of all classes is Turkish. The Greeks write it in Greek letters; the Armenians in Armenian letters. A young Armenian who is learning to read it with the Turkish letters, called on us, and read a little in a Turkish Testament, the translation of De Sacy, and we gave him one of them.

Showed our Romaic Testaments to Economo. He says they have the one, which Mr. Lindsay gave them five years ago, and are much pleased with it. He then went with us to visit the schools. The first is taught by a priest, and/consists of 50 scholars. The second is taught by a layman, and consists of 20. Supplied them with tracts.Copied a long Greek inscription on a stone erected by Fabius Zosimus, at the tomb of his wife.

Thyatira is situated near a small river, a branch of the Caicus, in the cen

tre of an extensive plain. At the distance of 3 or 4 miles it is almost completely surrounded by mountains.The houses are low, many of them mud or earth. Excepting the Moslem's palace, there is scarcely a decent house in the place. The streets are narrow and dirty, and every thing indicates poverty and degradation.

There has been some doubt whether Ak-hisar is really the ancient Thyatira. There is a town called Tyra, or Thyra, between Ephesus and Laodicea, which some have supposed to be Thyatira. But we have with us the Rev. Mr. Lindsay's letter, in which he gives an account of his visit to the seven churches. Ak-hisar is the place which he called Thyatira, without even suggesting any doubt about it. When we inquired in Smyrna for a letter of introduction to Thyatira, they gave us one to this place. The Bishop, priest and professors, at Haivali, and the priests in Pergamos, and in this town, have all spoken of Ak-hisar and Thyatira, as being the same. In the inscription, which we copied, the place is called Thyatira. St. John addressed the seven churches in the order in which they are situated, beginning with Ephesus and closing with Laodicea. If Akhisar is Thyatira, this order is complete; if not, it is broken.

Saturday, 11.-Went to the Armenian church, at the time of morning prayers. About 30 were present.

Journey to Sardis.

Passed

At 7 we set out for Sardis. in sight of 3 or 4 small villages, and at half after eleven stopped to dine at a village called Marmora. It has 4 mosques and 1 Greek church with two priests, The whole number of houses is said to be 4 or 500, of which 50 are Greek. Gave some tracts to one of the priests and to several others. At one we resumed our journey. At two came in sight of a lake, and made a bend around the west side of it. At four we ascended a hill, and saw before us an extensive plain, through which the Hermus runs, and beyond it mount Tmolus extending to the east and west as far as the eye could reach. At the foot of this mountain stood Sardis, the great capital of the Lydian kings, and the city of the far famed Croesus. We crossed the plain obliquely bearing to the east and reaching Sardis, now called Sart, at half past six, in 10 hours travel from Thyatira; course a little east of south.

Found difficulty in procuring a lodg. ing; at length put up in a hut occupied

by a Turk. It was about 10 feet square, the walls of earth, the roof of bushes and poles covered with soil and grass growing on it. There was neither chair, table, bed nor floor in the habitation. The Turk seemed to dive principally by his pipe and his coffee.

A Sabbath in Sardis.

Lord's Day, Nov. 12.-After our morning devotions, we took some tracts and a Testament and went to a mill near us, where 3 or 4 Greeks live. Found one of them grinding grain. Another soon came in. Both were able to read. We read to them the address to the church in Sardis, and then the account of the day of judgment, Mat. xxv. Conversed with them about what we read, and then spoke of the Lord's day, and endeavoured to explain its design, and gave them some tracts. We had our usual forenoon service in the upper part of the mill; and could not refrain from weeping, while we sung the 74th Psalm, and prayed among the ruins of Sardis. Here were once a few names, which had not defiled their garments; and they are now walking with their Redeemer in white. But, alas! the church as a body had only a name to live, while they were in reality dead; and they did not hear the voice of merciful admonition, and did not strengthen the things which were ready to die. Wherefore the candlestick has been removed out of its place. In the afternoon we walked out and enjoyed a season of social worship in the field. This has been a solemn, and we trust a profitable Sabbath to us. Our own situation, and the scenery around us, have conspired to give a pensive, melancholy turn to our thoughts. Our eye has affected our hearts, while we saw around us the ruins of this once splendid city, with nothing now to be seen, but a few mud huts, inhabited by igno rant, stupid, filthy Turks; and the only men, who bear the Christian name, at work all day in their mill. Every thing seems, as if God had cursed the place, and left it to the dominion of Satan.

Brother Parsons is unwell. If one of us should be attacked in this place with a lingering and dangerous disease, it would be only such a trial as we often thought of, and mentioned when anticipating the mission. Yet such a trial would put our faith and our submission to a severe test. The Providence and grace of God alone can give us comfort and support.

Ruins of the Place.

Monday, 13.-Went out to view more

particularly the ruins of the place. Saw the decayed walls of two churches, and of the market, and the ruins of an ancient palace. Two marble columns are standing, about 30 feet high, and 6 in diameter, of the Ionic order. The fragments of similar pillars lie scattered on the ground. Chandler, who was here about sixty years ago, says five pillars were then standing. All

our guide could tell of the place was, that it was the palace of the king's daughter. Ascended a high hill to see the ruins of the old castle. Some of the remaining walls are very strong.

There is now in Sardis no Christian family. There are three grist mills here, in which 9 or 10 Greek men and boys are employed. To one of these we gave a Testament, charging him to read it constantly, and remember that it is the word of God, and the guide to heaven. He bowed, thanked us for the gift, and said, "I will read it often."

Journey to Philadelphia.

In the afternoon took leave of Sart, and went across the plain to see the tumuli or barrows on the opposite hill. In half an hour we crossed the Hermus, and in an hour more reached one of the largest barrows. It is made of earth, in the form of a semiglobe, and as nearly as we could measure it with our steps, 200 rods in circumference. From the summit of this, 40 or 50 others were in sight; most of them much smaller. Strabo says, the largest of these was built in honour of Halyattis, the father of Croesus, and was 6 stadia, i. e. three quarters of a mile in circumference.

From these tumuli we went to Tatarkeny, a village one hour east of Sart on the way to Philadelphia. Arrived in the evening, and put up with a Greek priest. There are about 50 Greeks in the village and its vicinity. They have a church which was built 10 years ago. In the evening, 6 or 7 men came in, and we read to them the first three chapters of Revelations. Sometimes they seemed pleased, and at other times surprised. It all seemed new to them. The priest had never seen a Romaic Testament before. There is no school in his parish, and he says very few of his people can read.

Tuesday, 14.-Gave Germanicus, the priest, a Testament, and some tracts for his flock and for another priest in the neighbourhood. At half past seven set out for Philadelphia. Our road lay along the south side of the plain. On the north side were several villages. In 4

hours we came to a Greek shop, where we took some refreshment, and gave tracts to two or three men.

Visit at Philadelphia.

In three hours more we reached Philadelphia, now called Allah Scheyer i. e. the city of God. Obtained the use of a small dirty room in a Khan, and put up for the night. In the evening Serkish called for Martino in great haste, and said, “the Turks are taking our horses." Remonstrance was in vain. A Pacha was coming with some hundred attendants, and horses were wanted, for a few days, for their use. Ours must go among the rest. Martino went immediately to the Moslem, and stated that we are foreigners, have just arrived here, and wish to go on soon. The plea prevailed. The Moslem ordered two men to take the horses, and reconduct them to the Khan. "The heart of the king is in the hand of the Lord."

Wednesday, 15.-Early this morning, Theologus, a Greek to whom we had a letter of recommendation, went with us to visit Gabriel, the Archbishop of this diocese. He has held his present office six years, is reputed a man of learning, but now quite aged, perhaps 75. Formerly he had one bishop under him; now none, and but about 20 priests. His diocese includes Sardis on the west and Laodicea on the east; but he says there are not above 6 or 700 Greek houses in it. There are 5 churches in this town besides 20 which are either old or small and not now used. The whole number of houses is said to be 3,000 of which 250 are Greek, the rest Turkish. We gave the Archbishop some

tracts and a Testament.

We went next to visit a school of about 30 scholars, who study ancient and modern Greek. There is a small library belonging to the school. The school-house contains four apartments, one of which is reserved for company. We obtained leave to use it during our stay in town, and very gladly removed our baggage from the Khan.

Dined with the Archbishop. This is one of the Greek fast days, on which it is unlawful to eat meat. The dinner consisted of rice, soup, boiled beans, several plates of herbs, and a rich variety of fruits with bread and cheese, and a plenty of raki, rum and wine. It seemed to us a singular dinner for a fast day.

Spent the afternoon at the school house-found in the library an old M. S. of the Gospels in Greek. The