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moral, upright, and warlike profession of cookery, that poets are not so well acquainted with good may they live as the ancient inhabitants of Puerte eating, as otherwise they might be, if oftener Ventura, one of the Canary Islands, where, they invited. However, even in Mr. D'Urfey's prebeing so barbarous as to make the most contemptible sence, this I would be bound to say, “That a good person to be their butcher, they had likewise their dinner is brother to a good poem :” only it is meat served up raw, because they had no fire to something more substantial, and, between two and dress it; and I take this to be a condition bad three a clock, more agreeable. enough of all conscience!
I have known a supper make the most diverting As this small essay finds acceptance, I shall be part of a comedy. Mr. Betterton, in The Liberencouraged to pursue a great design l have in hand, tine', has set very gravely with the leg of a of publishing a Bibliotheca Culinaria, or the Cook's chicken: but I have seen Jacomo very merry, and Complete Library, which shall begin with a trans eat very heartily of pease and buttered eggs, under lation, or at least an epitome, of Athenæus, who the table. The host, in The Villain 3, who carries treats of all things belonging to a Grecian feast. tables, stools, furniture, and provisions, all about He shall be publisbed, with all his comments, useful him, gives great content to the spectators, when glosses, and inderes, of a vast copiousness, with cuts from the crown of his hat he produces his cold caof the basling-ladles, dripping-pans, and drudging- pon : so Armarillis (or rather Parthenope, as I bores, &c. lately dug up at Rome, out of an old take it) in The Rehearsal, with her wine in her subterranean skullery. I design to have all authors in spear, and her pye in her helmet; and the cook all languages upon that subject; therefore pray that slobbers his beard with sack-posset, in The consult what oriental manuscripts you have. I
lan the Master“; have, in my opinion, made remember Erpenius, in his notes upon Locman's the most diverting part of the action. These emFables (whom I také to be the same person witte bellishments we have received from our imitation Æsop), gives us an admirable receipt for making of the ancient poets. Horace, in his Satires, makes the sour milk, that is, the bonny clabber, of the Ara Mæcenas very merry with the recollection of the bians. I should be glad to know how Mahomet unusual entertainments and dishes given him by used to have his shoulder of mutton dressed. I have Nasidienus; and with bis raillery upon garlick in heard he was a great lover of that joint; and that his third Epode. The supper of Petronius, with all a maid of an inn poisoned him with one, saying, its machines and contrivances, gives us the most “If he is a prophet, he will discover it; if he is an lively description of Nero's luxury. Juvenal spends impostor, no matter what becomes of him.” 1 a whole satire about the price and dressing of a shall have occasion for the assistance of all my single fish, with the judgment of the Roman scnate friends in this great work. I some posts ago de concerning it. Thus, whether serious or jocose, sired a friend to inquire what manuscripts Sol. good eating is made the subject and ingredient of Harding, a famous cook, may have left behind him poetical entertainments. at Oxford. He says, he finds among his executors I think all poets agree, that episodes are to be several admirable bills of fare for Aristotle suppers, interwoven in their poems with the greatest nicety and eutertainments of country strangers, with cer of art; and so it is the same thing at a good tatain prices, according to their several seasons. He ble: and yet I have seen a very good episode (give says, some pages have large black crosses drawn me leave to call it so) made by sending out the leg over them; but for the greater part the books are of a goose, or the gizzard of a turkey, to be broiled: fair and legible.
though I know, that critics with a good stomach Sir, I would beg you to search Cooks' Hall, what have been offended that the unity of action should manuscripts they may have in their archives. See be so far broken. And yet, as in our plays, so at wbat in Guildhall: what account of custard in the our common tables, many episodes are allowed, as sword-bearer's office: how many tun he, a com- slicing of cucumbers, dressing of sallads, seasoning mon cryer, or a common hunt, may eat in their the inside of a surloin of beef, breaking lobsters' life-time. But I transgress the bounds of a letter, claws, stewing wild ducks, toasting of cheese, legs and have strayed from my subject, which should of larks, and several others. have been, to beg you to read the following lines, A poet, who, by proper expressions and pleasing when you are inclined to be most favourable to images, is to lead us into the knowledge of necesyour friend; for else they will never be able to en sary truth, may delude his audience extremely, dure your just censure. I rely upon your good and indeed barbarously, unless he has some knownature; and I am
ledge of this Art of Cookery, and the progress of Your most obliged, &c. it. Would it not sound ridiculous to hear Alex.
ander the Great command his cannon to be mount. ed, and to throw red-hot bullets out of his mortar
pieces ? or to have Statira talk of tapestry-hangings, LETTER VI.
which, all the learned know, were many years
after her death first hung up in the hall of king To Mr.
Attalus ? Should sir John Falstaff complain of
having dirtied his silk stockings, or Anne of Boleyn PEAR SIR,
call for her coach; would an audience endure it, I HAVE reflected upon the discourse I had with when all the world knows that queen Elizabeth you the other day, and, upon serious consider was the first that had her conch, or wore silk stockation, find, that the true understanding of the whole Art of Cookery will be useful to all persons that * A tragedy by Thomas Shadwell, acted 1676. pretend to the beltes lettres, and especially to poets. 3 A tragedy by Thomas Porter, acted 1663.
I do not find it proceeds from any enmity of the * A comedy by sir William Davenant, acted cooks, but it is rather the fault of their masters, 1669.
ings ? Neither can a poet put hops in an English- | Take in good part from our poor poet's board' man's drink before heresy came in: nor can he Such shriveled fruit as Winter can afford. serve him with a dish of carp before that time: he might as well give king James the First a dish of How fops and freas should come together, I canasparagus upon his first coming to London, which not easily account for; but I doubt not but his ele, were not brought into England till many years rasher, grapes; peaches, and shriveled apples, might after; or make Owen Tudor present queen Ca- “ pit, box, and gallery," it well enough. His protharine with a sugar-loaf, whereas he might as logue to Sir Martin Mar-all is such an exquisite easily have given her a diamond as large, seeing poem, taken from the same art, that I could wish the iceing of cakes at Wood-street corner, and the it translated into Latin, to be prefixed to Dr. Lisrefining of sugar, was but an invention of two hun- ter's work. The whole is as follows: dred years standing, and before that time our ancestors sweetened and garnished all with honey, of
PROLOGUE. which there are some remains in Windsor. bowls, baron bracks, and large sinnels, sent for presents Are yet the great regalia of a play ;
Fools, which each man meets in his dish each from Litchfield.
[day, But now, on the contrary, it would show his In which to poets you but just appear, reading, if the poet put a hen-lurkey upon a table to prize that highest which cost them so dear. in a tragedy; and therefore I would advise it in Pops in the town more easily will pass, Hamlet, instead of their painted trifles; and I be
One story makes a statutable ass : lieve it would give more satisfaction to the actors.
But such in plays must be much thicker sown, For Diodorus Siculus reports, how the sisters of Like yolks of eggs, a dozen beat to one. Meleager, or Diomedes, mourning for their bro-Observing poets all their walks invade, ther, were turned into hen-turkeys ; from whence
As men watch woodcocks gliding through a glade; proceeds their stateliness of gate, reservedness in And, when they have enough for comedy, conversation, and melancholy in the tone of their They 'stow their several bodies in a pye. voice, and all their actions. But this would be the for, gallants, you yourselves have found the wit.
Tbe poet's but the cook to fashion it, most iniproper meat in the world for a comedy ; To bid you welcome, would your bounty wrong: for melancholy and distress require a different sort of diet, as well as language: and I have heard of None welcome those who bring their cheers along. a fair lady, that was pleased to say, “that, if she were upon a strange road, and driven to great ne
The image (which is the great perfection of a cessity, she believed she might for once be able to poet) is so extremely lively, and well painted, that sup upon a suck-posset and a fat capon.”
methinks I see the whole audience with a dish of I am sure poets, as well as cooks, are for having buttered eggs in one hand, and a woodcock-pye in all words nicely chosen and properly adapted; and the other. I hope I may be excused, after so great therefore, I believe, they would sbow the saine re
an example; for I declare I have no design but to gret that I do, to hear persons of some rank and encourage learning, and am very far from any dequality say, “ Pray cut up that goose. Help me signs against it. And therefore I hope the worthy to some of that chicken, ben, or capon, or half gentleman, who said, that the Journey to London that plover;” not considering how indiscreetly ought to be burnt by the common hangman, as a they talk, before men of art, whose proper terms are,
book, that, if received, would discourage inge“ Break that goose ; frust that chicken; spoil that hen; nuity, would be pleased not to make his bonfire at sauce that capon ; mince that plover.” - If they are so
the upper end of Ludgate-street, for fear of endanmuch out in common things, how much more will gering the booksellers' shops and the cathedral. they be with bitterns, herons, cranes, and peacocks?
I have abundance more to say upon these subBut it is vain for us to complain of the faults and jects; but I am afraid my first course is so tedious, errours of the world, unless we lend our helping- that you will excuse me both the second course and hand to retrieve them.
the dessert, and call for pipes and a candle. But To conclude, our greatest author of dramatic consider, the papers come from an old friend; and poetry, Mr. Dryden, has made use of the mysteries spare them out of compassion to, of this art in the prologues to two of his plays, one
Sir, &c. a tragedy, the other a comedy; in wbich he has shown bis greatest art, and proved most success. ful. I had not seen the play for some years, before I hit upon almost the same words that he has
LETTER VII. in the following prologue to All for Love:
I AM no great lover of writing more than I am We scarce could know they live, but that they bite. forced to, and therefore have not troubled you with * But, as the rich, when tir'd with daily feasts, my letters to congratulate your good fortune in For change, become their next poor tenant's guests, London, or to bemoan our unhappiness in the loss Drink hearty draughts of ale from plain broren bowls, of you here. The occasion of this is, to desire And snatch the home'y rasher from the coals ;
Four assistance in a matter that I am fallen into So you, retiring from much better cheer,
by the advice of some friends; but, unless they For once may venture to do penance here; help me, it will be impossible for me to get out of And, since that plenteous Autumn now is past, Whose grapesand peaches have indulg'd your taste, 5 Some critics read it chair, KING.
it. I bave had the misfortune to write ; but, , the house-keeper, makes this complaint to lady what is worse, I have never considered whether Bonona. any one would read. Nay, 1 have been so very “ FAV. The last mutton killed was lean, mabad as to design to print; but then a wicked dam. Should not some fat sheep be bought in? thought came across me with “Who will buy?”
Bon. What say you, Let-acre, to it? For, if I tell you the title, you will be of my mind,
LET. This is the worst time of the year for that the very name will destroy it: “ The Art of sheep. The fresh grass makes them fall away, Cookery, in Imitation of Horace's Art of Poetry; and they begin to taste of the wool; they must with some familiar Letters to Dr. Lister and be spared a while, and Favourite must cast to others, occasioned principally by the Title of a spend some salt-meat and fish. I hope we shall Book, published by the Doctor, concerning the have some fat calves shortly.” Soups and Sauces of the Ancients.” To this a beau will cry, “ Phough! what have I to do
What can be more agreeable than this to the with kitchen-stuff?” To which I answer, “ Buy Art of Cookery, where our author says, it, and give it to your servants.” For 1 hope to But though my edge be not too nicely set, live to see the day when every mistress of a Yet I another's appetite may whet; family, and every steward, shall call up their May teach him when to buy, when season's past, children and servants with, “ Come, miss Betty, What's stale, what's choice, what's plentiful, what how much have you got of your Art of Cookery?” waste, " Where did you leave off, miss Isabel?”“Miss And lead him through the various maze of taste. Kitty, are you no farther than King Henry and the Miller?”-“ Yes, madam, I am come to
In the second act, Valentine, Mrs. Bonona's
son, the consummate character of the play, hay-His name shall be enrolled
ing in the first act lost his hawk, and consequently In Estcourt's book, whose gridiron's fram'd of gold. bis way, benighted and lust, and seeing a light in a " Pray, mother, is that our master Estcourt?" distant house, comes to the thrifty widow Furiosa's, " Weil, child, if you mind this, you shall not be (which is exactly according to the rule, “ A prince, pot to your Assembly Catechism next Saturday.” who in a forest rides astray!”) where he finds the old What a glorious sighť it will be, and how becom- gentlewoman carding, the fair Fiorida her daughter ing a great family, to see the butler out-learning working on a parchment, whilst the maid is spinning, the steward, and the painful scullery-maid exert. Peg reaches a chair ; sack is called for; and in the ing her memory far beyond the mumping house- mean time the good old gentlewoman complains so of keeper! I am told, that, if a book is any thing rogues, that she can scarce keep a goose or a turkey in useful, the printers have a way of pirating on one safety, for them. Then Florida enters, with a lillle another, and printing other persons copies which while bottle, about a pint, and an old-fashioned glass, is very barbarous. And then shall I be forced to fills, and gives her mother; she drinks to Valentine, he come out with, “ The True Art of Cookery is only to Florida, she to him again, he to Furiosa, roho sets it to be had at Mr. Pindar's, a patten-maker's, under down on the table. After a small time, the old lady cries, St. Dunstan's church, with the author's seal at the
“ Well; it is my bed-time; but my daughter will title-page, being three sauce-pans, in a bend show you the way to yours: for I know you would proper, on a cook's apron, argent. Beware of willingly be in it.” This was extremely kind! counterfeits.” And be forced to put out adver- | Now, upon her retirement, (see the great judgtisements, with “ Strops for razors, and the best merit of the poet!) she being an old gentlewoman spectacles, are to be only had at the Archimedes, that went to bed, he suits the following regale &c."
according to the age of the person. Had boys I design proposals, which I must get delivered been put to bed, it had been proper to have to the cooks' company, for the making an ordar
“ laid the goose to the fire:” but here it is otherthat every apprentice shall have the Art of wise; for, after some intermediate discourse, he Cookery when he is bound, which he shall say is invited to a repast; when he modestly excuses by heart before he is made free; and then he shall bimself with, “ Truly, madam, I have no stomach bare Dr. Lister's book of Soups and Sauces to any meat, but to comply with you. You have, delivered to him for his future practice. But you madam, entertained me with all that is desirable know better what I am to do than i. For the already.” The larły tells him “ cold supper is betkindness you may show me, I shall always endea-ter than none;" so he sils at the table, offers to eat, vour to make what returns lay in my power,
but cannot. I am sure, Horace could not have I am yours, &c
prepared himself more exactly; for, (according to the rule,“ A widow has cold pye") though Valentine, being love-sick, could not eat, yet it was his fault, and not the poet's. But, when Valen
tine is to return the civility, and to invite madam LETTER VIII.
Furiosa, and madam Florida, with other good To Mr.
company, to his mother the hospitable lady BoDEAR SIR,
nona's, (who by the by, had called for two bottles
of wine for Latitat her attorney) then affluence I Cantot but recommend to your perusal a late exquisite comedy, called "The Lawyer's
and dainties are to appear (according to this Fortune; or, Love in a Hollow Tree; which
verse“Mangoes, potargo, champignons, caveare”); piece has its peculiar embellishments, and is a
and Mrs. Pavourite, the housekeeper, makes these poem carefully framed according to the nicest most important enquiries : rules of the Art of Copkery; for the play opens
“ Fav. Mistress, shall I put any mushrooms, with a scene of good housewifery, where Favourite, mangoes, or bamboons, into the sallad ?
Bon. Yes, I pr’ythee, the best thou hast.
Boy. There is nothing left in the wallet Fav. Shall I use ketch-up or anchovies in the but one piece of cheese. What shall we do for gravy?
bread? Bon. What you will.”
VAL. When we have slept we will seek out But, however magnificent the dinner might be, Some roots that shall supply that doubt. yet Mrs. Bonona, as the manner of some persons
Boy. But no drink, master? is, makes ber excuse for it, with, “ Well, gentle
VAL. Under that rock a spring I see, men, can ye spare a little time to take a short Which shall refresh my thirst and thee.” dinner? I promise you, it shall not be long.” It is very probable, though the author does not make So the act closes; and it is dismal for the auany of the guests give a relation of it, that Valen-dience to consider how Valentine and the poor tine, being a great ,sportsman, might furnish the boy, who, it seems, had a coming stomach, should table with game and wild-fowl. There was at continue there all the time the music was playing, least one pheasant in the house, which Valentine and longer. But, to ease them of their pain, by told his mother of the morning before. “ Madam, an invention which the poets call catastrophe, Va. I had a good fight of a pheasant-cock, that, after lentine, though with a long beard, and very weak my hawk seized, made head as if he would have with fasting, is reconciled to Florida, who, emfought; but my hawk plumed him presently." bracing him, says, “ I doubt I have offended him Now it is not reasonable to suppose, that, Vally too much; but I will attend him home, cherish lying abroad that night, the old gentlewoman un him with cordials, make him broths,” (poor goodder that concern would have any stomach to it natured creature! I wish she had Dr. Lister's book for her own supper. However, to see the fate of to help her!) “ anoint his limbs, and be a nurse, things, there is nothing permanent; for one Mrs. a tender nurse, to him.” Nor do blessings come Candia making (though innocently) a present of alone; for the good mother, having refreshed him an hawk to Valentine, Florida his mistress grow's with warm baths, and kept him tenderly in the house, jealous, and resolves to leave him, and run away orders Favourite, with repeated injunctions, with an odd sort of fellow, one major Sly. Va- get the best entertainment she ever yet provided, lentine, to appease her, sends a message to her to consider what she has and what she wants, and by a boy, who tells her, “ His master, to show to get all ready in few hours." And so this most the trouble he took by her misapprehension, had regular work is concluded with a dance and a sent her some visible tokens, the bawk torn to- wedding-dinner. I cannot believe there was any pieces with his own hands;" and then pulls out of thing ever more of a piece than the comedy. the basket the wings and legs of a fowl. So we see the Some persons may admire your meagre tragepoor bird demolished, and all hopes of wild-fowl dies; but give me a play where there is a prodestroyed for the future: and happy were it if spect of good meat or good wine stirring in every 'misfortunes would stop here. But, the cruel act of it. beauty refusing to be appeased, Valentine takes Though I am confident the author had written a sudden resolution, which he communicates to this play and printed it long before the Art of Let-acre the steward, to brush-off, and quit his ha- Cookery was thought of, and I had never read bitation, However it was, whether Let-acre did it till the other poem was very nearly perfected; not think bis young master real, and Valentine yet it is admirable to see how a true rule will be having threatened the housekeeper to kick her adapted to a good work, or a good work to a true immediately before for being too fond of him, rule. I should be heartily glad, for the sake of and his boy being raw and unexperienced in tra- the public, if our poets, for the future, would velling, it seems they made but slender provision make use of so good an example. I doubt not for their expedition; for there is but one scene but, whenever you or I write comedy, we shall interposed, before we find distressed Valentine in observe it. the most miserable condition that the joint arts I have just now met with a surprising happiness; of poetry and cookery are able to represent him. a friend that has seen two of Dr. Lister's works, There is a scene of the greatest horrour, and most one De Buccinis Fluviatilibus et Marinis Exermoving to compassion, of any thing that I have citatio, an Exercitation of Sea and River Shellseen amongst the moderns; “ Talks of no pyra- fish; in which, he says, some of the chiefest ramids of fowl, or bisks of fish,” is nothing to it; rities are the pizzle and spermatic vessels of a snail, for here we see an innocent person, unless pu- delineated by a microscope, the omentum or caul nished for his mother's and housekeeper's extra of its throat, its Fallopian tube, and its subcrocean vagance, as was said before, in their mushrooms, testicle; which are things Hippocrates, Galen, mangoes, bamboons, ketchup, and anchovies, re- | Celsus, Farnelius, and Harvey, were never masters duced to the extremity of eating his cheese without of. The other curiosity is the admirable piece of bread, and having no other drink but water. For Cælius Apicius, De Opsoniis & Condimentis, he and his boy, with two saddles on his back and wallet, sive Arte Coquinaria, Libri decem, being Ten came into a walk of confused trees, where an orol hollows, Books of Soups and Sauces, and the Art of Cookery, a bear and leopard walk across the desert at a distance, as it is excellently printed for the doctor, who in and yet they venture in; where Valentine accosts this so important affair is not sufficiently comhis boy with these lines, which would draw tears municative. My friend says, he has a promise from any thing that is not marble:
of leave to read it. What remarks he makes I “ Hang up thy wallet on that tree
shall not be envious of, but impart to him I love
as well as his And creep thou in this hollow place with me, Let's here repose our wearied limbs till they more wearied bo!
Most humble servant, &c
THE ART OF COOKERY, Yet credit to the artist will accrue,
Who in known things still makes th' appearance
Fresh dainties are by Britain's traffick known,
What lord of old would bid his cook prepare
Mangoes, potargo, champignons, caveare?
Or would our thrum-capp'd ancestors find fault, INGENIOUS Lister, were a picture drawn
For want of sugar-tongs, or spoons for salt? With Cynthia's face, but with a neck like brawn; New things produce new words, and thus Monteth With wings of Turkey, and with feet of calf; Has by one vessel sav'd his name from death. Though drawn by Kneller, it would make you The seasons change us all. By Autumn's frost, Such is, good sir, the figure of a feast, [laugh! | The shady leaves of trees and fruit are lost. By some rich farmer's wife and sister drest; But then the Spring breaks forth with fresh supplies, Which, were it not for plenty and for steam, And from the teeming Earth new buds arise. Might be resembled to a sick man's dream, So stubble-geese at Michaelmas are seen Where all ideas huddling run so fast,
Upon the spit; next May produces green. That syllabubs come first, and soups the last. The fate of things lies always in the dark : Not but that cooks and poets still were free, What cavalier would know St. James's Park "? To use their power in uice variety;
For locket stands where gardens once did spring; Hence mackarel seem delightful to the eyes, And wild-ducks quack where grasshoppers did sing; Though dress'd with incoherent gooseberries. A princely palace on that space does rise, Crabs, salmon, lobsters, are with fennel spread, Where Sedley's noble muse found mulberries ?. Who never touch'd that herb till they were dead; Since places alter thus, what constant thought Yet no man lards salt pork with orange-peel, Of filling various dishes can be taught ? Or garnishes his lamb with spitchcock'd eel. For he pretends too much, or is a fool,
A cook perhaps has mighty things profess'd, Who'd fix those things where fashion is a rule. Then sent up but two dishes nicely dressid:
King Hardicnute, midst Danes and Saxons stout, What signify scotcht-collops to a feast?
Carouzd in nut-brown ale, and din'd on grout; Or you can make whipp'd cream; pray what relief Which dish its pristine honour still retains, Will that be to a sailor who wants beef;
And, when each prince is crown'd, in splendour Who, lately shipwreck’d, never can have ease,
reigns. Till re-establishd in his pork and pease?
By northern custom, duty was express'd, When once begun, let industry ne'er cease To friends departed, by their funeral feast. Till it has render'd all things of one piece : Thongh I've consulted Holinshed and Stow, At your dessert bright pewter comes too late, I find it very difficult to know When your first course was all serv'd up in plate. Who, to refresh th'attendants to a grave,
Most knowing sir! the greatest part of cooks, Burnt-claret first or Naples-biscuit gave. Searching for truth, are cozen'd by its looks. Trotter from quince and apples first did frame One would have all things little; hence has tried A pye, which still retains his proper name: Turkey-poults, fresh from th' egg, in batter fried: Though common grown, yet, with white sugar Others, to show the largeness of their soul,
strow'd, Prepare you muttons swold, and oxen whole. And butter'd right, its goodness is allotv'd. To vary the same things, some think is art: As wealth flow'd in, and plenty sprang from By larding of hogs-feet and bacon-tart,
[crease. The taste is now to that perfection brought, Good-humour reign'd, and pleasures found inThat care, when wanting skill, creates the fault. 'Twas usual then the banquet to prolong In Covent-Garden did a taylor dwell,
By music's charm, and some delightful song; Who might deserve a place in his own Hell: Where every youth in pleasing accents strove Give him a single coat to make, he'd do't; To tell the stratagems and cares of love; A vest, or breeches, singly: but the brute Could ne'er contrive all three to make a suit: ' In the time of king Henry VIII. the park Rather than frame a supper like such clothes, was a wild wet field; but that prince, on building I'd have fine eyes and teeth, without my nose. St. James's palace, enclosed it, laid it out in
You, that from pliant paste would fabrics raise, walks, and, collecting the waters together, gave Expecting thence to gain immortal praise, to the new-enclosed ground and new-raised buildYour knuckles try, and let your sinews know ing the name of St. James. It was much enTheir power to knead, and give the form to dough; larged by Charles II. ; who added to it several Choose your materials right, your seasoning fix, fields, planted it with rows, of lime-trees, laid And with your fruit resplendent sugar mix: out the Mall, formed the canal, with a decoy, From thence of course the figure will arise, and other ponds, for water-fowl. The lime. And elegance adorn the surface of your pies. trees or tilia, whose blossoms are incomparably
Beauty from order springs; the judging eye fragrant, were probably planted in consequence Will tell you if one single plate's awry.
of a suggestion of Mr. Evelyn, in his FumifuThe cook must still regard the present time: gium, published in 1661.- The improvements Tomít what's just in season is a crime.
lately made seem in some measure to have brought Your infant pease t' asparagus prefer,
it into the state it was in before the Restoration; Which to the supper you may best defer. at least, the wild-ducks have in their turn given
Be cautious how you change old bills of fare, way to the grass-hoppers. N. Such alterations should at least be rare;
* A comedy called, The Mulberry Garden. N.