himself during his visit to England, among a people differing from every other in their form government, was shocked at the liberty of the press, and the freedom of speech used by the opposition members of the House of Commons, and comparing them with those of the slaves amongst whom he was accustomed to vegetate, wrote in his tablets, that we were a nation of republicans and regicides !

Of course M. de Ficquelmonte tells his readers that the great crying evil of the day is the liberty of the press, and the tendency of the present generation towards the heretical doctrines of Luther and Calvin; and last, though not the least, he declaims at the want of spirit displayed by the great powers in permitting England to become the refuge of all the political vagabonds in Europe! Political vagabonds! what will Prince Metternich, the political vagabond of Austria, say to this? and all the other political vagabonds, kings, princes, ministers, and mighty men, who found not only a refuge, but a hospitable reception in England?

In fact the whole work, which our author has

contrived to expand into two volumes, would be a mere tirade of his Gallic spite against England, and his ill-concealed jealousy of her power, strength, and resources, were it not that he now and then, like an imprudent Frenchman, "lets pussy out of the bag," and enlightens us as to the real state of Europe, and the little dependence to be placed upon the continuance of the unnatural lull which has taken place in the politics and mind of Europe. Finally, after dwelling upon the commercial wealth and industry of England, and the great influence it gives her among the nations, he candidly admits that the sovereigns of Europe are ready to make any sacrifice to her commercial interests, if they could only prevail upon her to become again a party to the Holy Alliance. In other words, they admit that they are too feeble to molest her; and so long as she stands forth in the majesty of her free institutions, to be a beacon to enlighten the nations, there can be no hope nor prospect of continuing their reign of despotism.

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Rome-Difficulties attending passports -Dreary aspect of the country-The Vettura Travelling companions—A priest's account of the state of Italy and the Roman Revolution-ViterboLago di Bolsena-Its solitude-Orvieto-Its interesting cathedral-Arrival in Tuscany-Improvement in the aspect of the country-Condition of the inhabitants contrasted with those of the Papal States— Arrival at Sienna-History of the fair St. Catherine.

TRAVELLERS of every nation, every country, and every language, have already exhausted eloquence on the wonders of the Eternal City. Its palaces, churches, works of art, and antiquities, all have been again and again described; and as far as these are considered, no traveller, though he may fear to weary his readers with

describing them, can ever enter Rome without pleasure, or quit it without regret.

Previous to our departure, we had the same endless number of forms to comply with, that we experienced at Naples; and as in that city, unless a stranger is known to be one of the elect of the Jesuits, or wears a soutane, he is regarded by the authorities with a feeling the reverse of affection.

Since the late revolution, the passport system is enforced in every part of Italy, except the kingdom of Sardinia, with the greatest rigour; hence it is impossible to pass from one petty state to another without the signature of its representative. This, it is true, may easily be obtained on payment of the usual fees. But this is not the case with Austria, that jealous power interposes such a barrier of police laws and passport regulations around her Italian possessions, for the purpose of preventing strangers from entering them, that it is almost impossible for a traveller to know when he has complied with all the requisite formalities. Owing to the late regulations with regard to foreign

passports, ours was declared irregular, because it was not signed in London by the Austrian ambassador; yet we had traversed the Austrian states the preceding year with the same passport on our return from Turkey. Happily in our case, the disappointment was not attended with any inconvenience. We had already visited Lombardy and Venice; and finding a vetturino on the point of starting for Florence, we lost no time in making arrangements to quit the Eternal City.

We left Rome by the Porto del Popolo, the most cheerful and beautiful entrance, with its fine piazza, churches, and the shelving gardens of Monte Pincio, presenting altogether a most imposing effect.

After passing the Ponte Molle, the country became highly picturesque, everywhere broken up into swelling hills and romantic vallies, here and there enlivened by the remains of some ruin of ancient Rome, or a crumbling village grouped on the summit of a distant mountain. The soil had the same volcanic appearance we before remarked as peculiar to so many districts

VOL. II.

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