good grounds. She proceeded to speak of a fine water-falls, within about fifteen miles; to which she recommended a visit. The preference was given to Niagara in point of sublimity, while she assured me, in some respects, it was not inferior in beauty and romantic scenery. It is useless to add that these flattering representations were not sufficient to induce a change in the route, which we had originally determined on pursuing. As to climate, Utica is extremely moist and cold. In the latter respect, she supposed, it was equal to the extreme temperature experienced in Russia; and upon so broad a latitude, it would be needless not to assent, as this climate will correspond, some where or other, with most in America.

By this time my two companions had entered into conversation concerning a learned ministry; which though the ladies did not altogether consider as essentially requisite, they were, however, ready to admit, that some classical learning, as also, a competent knowledge of Greek, to read the Testament, and an acquaintance with history, were necessary. Not being able to determine the point at issue, and willing to press these female connoisseurs no further than prudence dictated, we concluded una voce, to put an end to the visit, and return to our lodgings.

CHAPTER III.

Accessions to the party-Villages-Breakfast-Oneida Castle-Plains and Forest scenery-Observations on the Indians: Melioration proposed.

On Friday morning (the 2d August) we were aroused at the early hour of half past three; having renewed the journey, our party had received an accession of two ladies, on their way home to the state of Ohio. They were accompanied by a prim looking beau, whom they called Doctor, and who from his appearance might have belonged to the society of Friends. It so happened, in the arrangement, that the two ladies and myself occupied the back seat. After the salutations, or nodding so usual in a morning's ride, but not quite severe enough to prevent sleep (for which impoliteness in the company of ladies surely there needs some apology) I earnestly endeavoured to make amends, as soon as daylight appeared. But several unsuccessful attempts proved to me, how impolitic it was not to commence at once, any one would wish to gain favour

if

with the ladies; for by this time, no exertions on my part were sufficient. It was necessary to put on the best face possible, and endure the mortification till breakfast time; after which, at the solicitation of one of my companions, I resigned my seat, and I may add, with much willingness. It became a desirable post to several of the rest of the party soon afterwards in turn; but all were equally discomfited. There appeared an utter aversion to conversation in the two ladies; nothing but a sedate look or a solitary negative could be obtained, in reply to the politest attentions. The younger lady would probably have been more affable, but that she was engaged in reading a novel, and before she opened the book, she was prevented by the other; who having assumed the middle place, had caused a separation between her and the gentleman that occupied the remaining part of the back seat, and thus cut off the communication. This crooked piece of furniture so incommoded the harmony of our company, that we were necessarily obliged to be secluded. She was, no doubt, some disappointed maiden, and from the settled appearance of habit, which she assumed, she had determined to remain SO. In this there is an excuse, for at the age of three-and-thirty, girls arrive at a peculiar accura

cy in these matters, and seldom fail, as they acquire dislike for those intruders around them, to express their feelings in terms of sullenness and disapprobation. To complete the list of our stage-party, there were a Scotch gentleman, a New-Yorker, and a Virginian; but neither was likely to succeed in making an acquaintance with the ladies. The first afforded considerable amusement by placing a joke upon the Virginian, who having occupied a station in the rear guard, was obliged to retreat with falling colours. These circumstances contributed to heighten the sociability and amusement of the greatest part company, who had been travelling together for nearly two days; and thus the morning passed off very pleasantly.

of our

For a short distance out of Utica, the improvements are very considerable, and the country pleasant; being interspersed with gradual eminences, and sloping grounds. A little further it assumes a very different appearance, from a discontinuance of cultivation, and a more rough and barren soil. A tattered frame or log hut supplies the place of the wealthy farmer's more commodious habitation.

In four miles after leaving Utica you arrive at the village of New-Hartford; and thence to West

moreland, is seven miles further. The villages along this road are chiefly interesting from their construction; the houses being built of brick very frequently, and in other respects quite commodious. The contrast is more remarkable to a traveller immediately after passing through them, on finding an unbroken extent of forest, where the axe and plough have not pierced, beyond the distance of half a mile from the road. Within that space are seen, here and there, a few log huts scattered among the scanty enclosures which are encumbered by the huge remnants of dead trees, half standing or spreading their wasteful branches over the soil. These are the most uninteresting appearances presented in the western countries; where the deep shade of the woods is cast over hill and dale, and a dull and contracted boundary is produced in the horizon. Perhaps the want of cultivation has been occasioned, more particularly in this place, by reason of certain unsettled claims in the tenure of lands.

The next village which we came to was Vernon, where a considerable number of the Oneida and Tuscarora Indians reside. It is distant from Utica about nineteen miles. Here we breakfasted with a pretty keen appetite, and set forward again in high spirits. This is a kind of grateful interlude