XXVI. SAN FRANCISCO CITY AND COUNTY.*

San Francisco, organized 1850: city and county consolidated July, 1856. Topography. The present city and county of San Francisco are co-extensive, being bounded on the north and east by the bay, extending to low water mark on the shores of Marin County, on the south by the county of San Mateo and on the west by the ocean. The southern boundary, in a direct line, is six and a half miles from the Plaza, being a few yards north of the old Abbey House, the line separating townships numbers two and three, and running due west from the bay to the Pacific. The city and county may be considered nearly square, averaging six and a half miles from north to south, and about the same from east to west, embracing an area of forty-two square miles, or about twenty-seven thousand acres, of which ten thousand are capable of cultivation, eight thousand are rocks, drifting sand and water, six thousand are adapted for pasture, two thousand occupied by the city proper, and about one thousand acres are used for market gardens.

Islands.-The following islands are also within the legislative limits of this city and county, namely: Yerba Buena Island, Alcatraz Island, Angel Island and the Farallon Island. Yerba Buena Island-is situated in the bay of San Francisco, north-east from the city. From Rincon Point and Market Street Wharf it is distant about one mile and a half, and from Contra Costa nearly three miles. The northern end of the island is distant from the Golden Gate (Fort Point) five miles and a half. This island contains 198 acres, of which 75 consist of rich soil, well adapted for garden purposes; 15 acres are heavily timbered, 23 acres jungle and brushwood; 75 acres hilly, rocky and sandy being thickly covered with the herb, or mint plant, from which the island takes its present name. Springs of excellent water abound on the eastern and western sides, in the midst of a fertile valley. The apex of this island is 339 feet above high water. In early times it was densely covered with wood, and was known to ancient mariners and whalers as Wood Island; but in 1839, one W. Spears placed a number of goats thereon, and hence the still popular name of Goat Island. On the easterly side is a wide shoal bay, dry at low water, which, with the present material on the island, could be filled up so as to more than double its size. This island is formed of compact beds of sandstone, of a blueish-gray color, from four to twenty-two inches in thickness. Its texture varies but little in the different beds, and the grain is close and even, and generally very fine. The position of these beds of sandstone is highly favorable for working, readily loaded at the wharf and ferried over the channel to the city. Several quarries are now opened on the island, and the supply of building stone appears inexhaustible. The U. S. Government having proposed to place some batteries upon the island, included it in the third line of fortifications, and it was reserved with the other points in 1850. It is claimed, however, under a Mexican grant, dated 8th November, 1838, * We are indebted to the politeness of Clement Ferguson, Esq., for the valuable data contained in this article relative to the Geography, Topography and Finances of San Francisco.

and is said to be the first island granted by Governor Alvarado under the decree "authorizing the granting of islands to Mexican citizens." This claim was recently rejected by the U. S. District Court in this city. II. Alcatraz, (Pelican,) or Bird Island—is also within the bay, lying to the westward of Yerba Buena, from which it is distant about a mile and a half. From the Golden Gate it is under four miles. This island is midway between Yerba Buena and Angel islands. The apex of this rocky eminence is 154 feet above the level of the water, and its area is 26 acres. Its greatest length and breadth are 1,673 feet, and 590 feet respectively. A portion is covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats. This little isle, being one of the national fortifications, is exempt from taxation. Already 60 guns of heavy caliber have been mounted, and the foundations laid for many more. With two exceptions, its sides are so precipitous that a landing could, with difficulty, be effected. III. Angel Island-is also within the bay, lying nearly three miles northwest of Yerba Buena, and about one mile from Marin County. It contains an area of 750 acres, and its apex is 600 feet above the level of the water. Excavations for building-stone have been made on the south-east end of the island. It is composed of sand-stone similar to that on Yerba Buena, but it is not so dark in color nor so hard. Specimens that have been examined, contain a notable quantity of carbonate of lime. The strata dips westwardly, and the quarry is opened on their upturned edges, and not at the ends of the beds, as at Yerba Buena. The weathered surfaces present the usual rusty color, and the divisional places or clearages are numerous. This island has heretofore been included within the boundaries of Marin, (see Wood's Digest, p. 132,) but subsequent legislation has assigned it to San Francisco, the northern boundary of which extends to the low water mark of Marin, commencing on the coast, "opposite Fort Point, thence following said low water mark to a point due north-west of Golden Rock." See Statutes of 1857, p. 209. It is worthy of remark, however, that this recent Act recites Yerba Buena, Alcatraz and the Farallons as the islands within the jurisdiction of San Francisco; yet by examining the map it will be apparent, notwithstanding the omission to designate Angel Island with the others, that the words above cited are almost conclusive as to its being within the limits of San Francisco. This is the first year that this island has been included in the assessment roll of this city and county. IV. The Farallon Rocks or Islands-in the Pacific Ocean, embrace the northerly, the middle and the southerly groups, the latter being distant from the former about seven miles. The northerly cluster is made up of five rocks; the middle is a single rock; and the southerly is the larger, (being two miles in circumference,) upon which the light-house stands, the top of the tower being 330 feet above the level of the sea, and about 29 miles westward from the Golden Gate. It is really difficult to imagine a more desolate and barren place than these "rocky islets" present to view; yet collectively they may be considered as the most extensive poultry yard in the world, for here may be found in myraids the bird described by Buffon as the Guillamot, (the Uria Troile of Linnæus,) which lay their eggs upon the bare

rocks. The appellation of the Foolish Guillamot has been given to this species by Latham, from the fact of its being with difficulty roused to flight, and often suffering itself to be caught with the hand, particularly during incubation. Some idea may be formed of their numbers, when we state, that each bird, during the season, lays but a single egg, and that since 1851 upwards of four million of their eggs have been sold in the San Francisco market. They are of a pale green color blotched with umber, are much in demand in restaurants, for pies, omelets, etc., one house alone using from 800 to 900 daily. The egg season lasts about six weeks, from the middle of May to the end of June. This year about 30,000 dozen have been disposed of, the price averaging forty cents a dozen. In 1851 they readily brought a dollar and a half. However, the expenses of the company absorb fully sixty per cent. of the gross receipts. Last year these islands were sold for non-payment of taxes to the "Pacific Farallon Company." Not having been redeemed, the tax title has become absolute.

Geological Features.-The principal rock formations of the vicinity of San Francisco are fine grained, compact sandstones, associated with shales; together with erupted trappean rocks and serpentine, all probably of recent origin. The sandstone underlies the city and is exposed along the shores of the bay, forming the principal promontories and points. On entering the bay from the Pacific, the rock is first seen at Point Lobos. The continued action of the ocean swell has worn the rocks into rugged cliffs, and excavated caverns and arches. Many large masses are detached from the cliffs and lie scattered about in the surf. These isolated island-rocks are the places of resort for sea-birds and the "huge sea-lion." However, the best section of the same formation may be seen from Pacific Street, where Telegraph Hill has been excavated. There, the stratification is very distinct, and the alternation of thick beds of argillaceous sandstone with shales and slate, is visible. Up to the present time, they have been found singularly devoid of fossils-not one shell having been met with, in them. The covering of soil, which appears to have been derived from the decomposition of the strata, is found to be a good material for making bricks, and it is extensively used in that manufacture. This fact shows that the rocks contain a large per centage of alumina, and the presence of oxyd of iron is indicated by the rusted color of the weathered rock, as well as by the deep-red tinge of burned bricks. The formation, next in importance to the sandstone, in point of extent and development, is the serpentinoid rock. It forms a high and prominent ridge, midway between the shores of the bay and the ocean, abutting upon the Golden Gate, and forming Fort Point. The width of the ridge is about a mile and a half; but its extension, southward, is not accurately known. In that direction it is partly obscured by sand, but forms a knob at the Orphan Asylum, near the Mission. The dark-colored portions of the rock were used in the construction of that excellent institution; but there is nothing to recommend it as a building-stone, except (in this instance,) its presence on the spot, as it is not calculated to resist the action of the weather. Along

the shores of the Mission Bay, there are extensive flats of swampy land, of alluvial origin. The surface consists of a very thick turf, which, cut out and dried in the sun, is suitable for fuel. On the hills around the city, there is a slight formation of alluvial drift, limited in extent, and occupying the lower parts of the principal depressions. In boring through the earth on the site of the Custom House, several beds of sand, clay and gravel, were found to succeed in regular order for a depth of sixty or eighty feet. This locality is below tide-level, and it is between these accumulations of drift or alluvium, and the rocks, that sheets of water, or water-bearing strata, are found, and are reached by Artesian borings in various parts of the city. Perhaps no point on the Pacific Coast presents more favorable opportunities for studying the phenomena of sand-dunes, than the peninsula of San Francisco. On the Pacific side there is an extensive beach, reaching for miles, north and south, and a long distance inland. A wide area is thus covered by loose, dry, seasand, and it has the aspect and character of a desert. From this large tract, has undoubtedly been accumulated, by the action of the ocean winds, the extensive formation of blown sand, which prevails within the city limits. Most of the hills in the city, where they were partially sheltered, are, or were, covered with a thick growth of shrubs, (chamisal,) which prevented the wind from acting upon their surfaces and removing the sand. Here we may add that artesian borings for water have been numerous, and that it is almost impossible to ascertain their number and localities. Water appears to be found in all parts of the city around the hills, and generally at a depth of not more than one hundred and fifty feet, but the depth varies with the locality. In Happy Valley, the borings are successful at a depth of seventy feet; north of California Street the depth increases, one in Montgomery Block being one hundred and sixty feet. The depths to which borings are carried, increase from the base of the hills towards the bay, and many of the wells are bored down through the salt water. See Blake's valuable Report.

Surveys of San Francisco.—In the spring of 1839, Governor Alvarado directed Alcalde F. De Haro to cause a survey of Yerba Buena to be made, and to lay out streets and lots. In the fall of the same year, and under his direction, Juan Vioget, a surveyor, made the first survey and plan of Yerba Buena. That survey was bounded by Pacific, Montgomery, Sacramento and Dupont streets. Subsequent surveys (each more extended than its predecessor,) were made officially by Jasper O'Farrell, W. M. Eddy and John J. Hoff. East of Larkin and Johnson streets, the city is divided into-First. Fifty vara lots. Second. One hundred vara lots. Third. Beach and water lots. Fourth. North Beach blocks. Fifth. South Beach blocks. Sixth. City Slip lots. 1st. In the "Fifty vara survey," there are 1,530 lots, with official numbers affixed, each 50 vara lot forming a square of 137 and a half feet, exclusive of Nos. 695, 709 and 753, which are duplicated. Forty only of the 50 vara lots being located south of Market Street. North of Market Street are also 100 vara lots, Nos. 1, 18, 24, 49, 50, 56, 57, 76, 673 and 675. 2d. In the "One hundred vara survey," each lot forming a square of 275 feet, the num

bers range from 1 to 420; however, there are but 398 official lots, as by some unaccountable oversight, Nos. 98 to 102, 108, 117 to 125, 152, 153, 154, 164, 236, 237 and 320, were omitted in the numbering. This survey is bounded by Johnson, Market and First streets. 3d. In the "Beach and water lot survey," all of them being east of Montgomery and First streets, there are 772 lots, each lot 45 feet and 10 inches in front, with a uniform depth of 137 feet and a half, with an official number affixed. 4th. In the "North Beach survey," there are nineteen blocks, each block containing six 50 vara lots, extending from the corner of Larkin and Jefferson streets, to the junction of Kearny and Bay streets, all of them fronting on the bay and under water. 5th. In the "South Beach survey," there are 33 blocks of various dimensions, fronting on the bay, and extending from Rincon Point to the junction of Harris and South streets-all under water. 6th. The "City Slip property," bounded by Clay, East, Sacramento and Davis streets, consists of 122 lots, each, with a few exceptions, being 25 feet in front, by 59 feet and 9 inches deep. In December, 1853, this entire property was sold at auction for $1,119,350. In addition to the foregoing, there are about sixteen blocks, east of Larkin and Johnson streets, without any official numbers attached. Of the older surveys of the city, mention must not be omitted of the twentysix 100 vara lots, adjacent to the Lagoon, and north-west of Larkin Street, granted on petition in 1847-48, by Alcaldes Hyde and Leavenworth. These now form a portion of the Western Addition.

The Western Addition.-On the 20th of June, 1855, Commissioners were appointed by ordinance, to "lay out" blocks and streets, west of Larkin Street, and south-west of Johnson and Market streets, extending to the city charter line of 1851. The Commissioners reported a map, in accordance with the ordinance, and their proceedings were ratified and confirmed, and the map declared official by the Legislature of last session. See Statutes of 1858, page 52. This, therefore, is the first year that the Western Addition has been regularly assessed in blocks. This large tract is in two divisions, the first lying north of Market and Ridley streets, being about two and a half miles from the latter street to the bay, and about half that distance from Larkin Street to the charter line. In this division there are upwards of 500 blocks, the great majority of which contain six 50 vara lots each, (being nearly four acres to the block,) exclusive of seven large squares, set apart for the public. The other division lies south of Market and Ridley streets, embracing the Mission Dolores, and a large portion of the Potrero Nuevo and Horner's Addition.

The Outside Property.—All that portion of the city and county south and west of the charter line of 1851, including the Bernal, the San Miguel and the De Haro ranches, is assessed this year, in quarter sections at not under five dollars an acre. In but few instances are there more than 160 acres included in a single assessment. The city charter line of 1851 embraced the north-east quarter of the present city and county, and formed a square of somewhat more than three miles.