round, from time to time, to all parts of his crowded and attentive audience, exhibiting a tall and well-proportioned person, and a tolerably expressive, though not very refined, countenance. He seemed about fifty-eight or sixty years old. His voice was loud and sonorous: his manner had all the confidence and self-possession derived from evidently a long familiarity with such scenes. I listened to him attentively for about ten minutes, and I feel compelled to say that I could detect nothing but very common-place declamation. Two words really would aptly describe all I heard-boisterous volubility. He gave a marvellous account of their doings at Leeds, I think it was, where they were constantly opening very large chapels, or enlarging their old ones, both of which were immediately filled with regular hearers; that there were "blessed scenes" going on there-on an average thirty or forty souls "converted" weekly; that at their last "quarter-day they had upwards of a thousand people "on trial," i. e., who had become probationary members of their society; that he had been lately there, and had had a "blessed season" of it. There was a love-feast,* at which there was a "very abundant outpouring of the Spirit,"-souls, in all directions, crying out, "What shall I do to be saved?" "Oh, my friends," exclaimed the preacher, with an excited air, it did my heart good, I assure you; it was Pentecost, indeed!" These statements were evidently received by his hearers with the deepest interest, testified by preva lent but half-suppressed exclamations of "Amen! thank the Lord!" which, though they had a somewhat singular effect, yet were not carried to an indecorous extent. Then he spoke, in a vehement manner, of the "perishing heathen," millions and millions of whom were at that moment bowing down to idols, and dying, and going to "And would they not come forward that night, and aid?" &c. &c. "How much remained to be done, notwithstanding the glorious things that had been done!" &c. &c. He ended by announcing that a collection would be made immediately; and, having passionately implored them to "give liberally," sat down, "only entreating his friends to make way in all directions for the collectors." Instantly there was a jingling sound as of silver and copper dropping into plates all over the chapel. A decently dressed servant-girl stood next to me; she had, apparently, devoured every word that had fallen from the preacher, and seemed now exhausted with excitement and the fatigue of standing so long. With one end of her pockethandkerchief she wiped the perspiration from her face, and out of the other, which was twisted up, she took a shilling and gave it, poor soul, to the collector when he came past, with a look of such earnest satisfaction! Though the bulk of the congregation -especially those surrounding herseemed to consist of the humbler classes, there was a considerable proportion of silver in the plate. As soon as this was over, some notices were read of meetings, sermons, &c. for the week-a hymn was given out, which they began to sing with prodigious heartiness, and I left the chapel. The next place I entered was a building not far off-the Scotch church, new, spacious, and handsome, but not very well filled. The minister was young, but modest and intelligent. He was expounding some obscure portions of Job, and with considerable force, ingenuity, and judgment, not failing to give whatever he uttered a stringent practical application. He was evidently a well-educated mar His language was select and accurate, and his reasoning sound; he afforded to my mind a very pleasing contrast to the preacher whom I had just been hearing. Loose, noisy, and inflammatory appeals to overstrained feelings (I have heard several of the Wesleyan preachers who are not liable to such observations), too often degenerating into downright clap-trap, appear to me far less calculated to advance the interests of real religion than sober and rational expositions of Scripture, This is a favourite ordinance with the Wesleyans. Love-feasts are very large meetings, consisting of the whole society, who are admitted by tickets. There are buns and water sent round to all present, and every one is at liberty both man and woman, to rise and state their religious feelings, "Who said it was? Isn't this a public place of worship, sir? I've a right." "You've only come to make game." "How dare you say so, sir? Do I look as if I were?" said I, sternly; and while he was occupied with one or two other applicants for admission, who suddenly demanded it in a much more questionable manner than I had, I slipped past him down stairs, and immediately encountered a scene which I will attempt with faithful exactitude to describe. It was a large low room, lit with gas; and there were several groups of people in it, men and women of the principles of Christianity, and with the words, "You've no call temperate though earnest exhortations here, sir; this isn't a play-house, sir to the practice of its virtues. What nothing of the sort." this young man said, for instance, at once interested and instructed me, only a chance-hearer, and obviated a difficulty that had several times occurred to me when I had heard the chapter read which he was then expounding. His concluding observations were practical and weighty. In short, what he had uttered bore the stamp of sincerity and reflection; and his congregation listened to him with an air of devout and calm attention-one which most strikingly contrasted in my mind with the exuberant excitement of the one which I had just quitted. I staid till the conclusion of the service, which was, as usual, simple and solemn. I some singing, some praying-others then returned to my lodgings, it being about half-past eight o'clock. I told my landlady-a respectable, intelligent person-where I had been, and that I felt a kind of pleasure. "Then, sir, if you're curious about such things, you had better go a little higher up the hill, and hear the people at Mr. Aitkin's chapel; they're still going on; and you'll say, sir, you never heard or saw such things in your life!" "Indeed! what do they call themselves?" "They arn't the regular Methodists-they're a bad sort of Methodists Jumpers, or Ranters, or something of that sort. They're a most horrid nuisance, sir, in the neighbourhood, and I wish the law would put them down, as it's just put down Mr. Muspratt's chimney. They're screaming and roaring, and singing and praying, at almost all hours of the day and night-Sundays as well as week-days! I've often heard them from our garden. We have not heard them this evening-but that may be because the wind's the other way!" I went off immediately. A strange and melancholy sight presented itself a scene that almost beggars description. The service in the chapel had been over some time, and most of the lights were extinguished; but there were a number of people clustering round a side door, which led, I found, into a large room beneath the chapel. I was entering with as quiet and decorous an air as it was possible to assume, when I was very rudely repulsed by a coarse, sour-visaged janitor, "as groaning and writhing on the floor- “Oh—0—0—ob, Lord Jesus!" heavily groaned the subject of her prayers. the back, who, his face hid in his arms, his body sprawling and writhing about on the floor and against the form, seemed making direful efforts to second those of her beside himsighing and groaning in a most dismal manner. 66 66 a groans and contortions between his two tormentors. Wrestle, wrestle! Jesus loves a good wrestler; He loves to be beat; He'll love thee all the better for this good fight! Don't ye see Him? Pray, man; now's the time! Now's the accepted time, now's the "Oh, glory! glory! glory!"-was day of salvation-now, now, or never! suddenly shouted from the central Don't thee feel it, thinkest thou?" group-who, at the bidding of a man The man, I suppose, answered in the in black, who took evidently the lead affirmative; for the woman on the in what was going on, burst out a other side, in a still wilder manner, singing most vehemently, and in an shouted suddenly, Oh, thank thee, extravagantly high key, "Praise God, Jesus! Thank thee! Thank thee! İ from whom all blessings flow." Some knew thou wouldn't be long-glory! lifted their hands rapidly up and down glory!" The man in black now rose with an air of irrepressible ecstacy up, and left them, to assist some one others actually shook hands with else in distress with his ghostly counone another, as if in joyful congratula- sel! My eye then fell upon a young tion and gratitude. Some screamed man and woman, kneeling a little forth the words at the tip top of their on my left hand, the former voices, their eyes closed violently, sailor, apparently about twenty years their heads directed upwards, and old, the latter a little older, and very their hands elevated and clasped to- good-looking, who had but the mo gether. I really expected to see them ment before separated themselves from fall down in a fit. They sung the last the central group above spoken of, and two lines over and over, and over continued praying together. I conagain, with the most ungovernable im- fess I looked at them somewhat suspetuosity and excitement. In the mean- piciously; for I had noticed the fellow while one of the people, whose happy a little before standing staring at the case had been the occasion of all this young woman with a most equivocal ecstacy, rose from her knees; her eyes expression of features. He whisperwere sunken, her face was red, and ed something in her ear, as the poor covered with tears and perspiration, creature-misguided enthusiast!-was and she was sobbing violently. I joining passionately in the singing, expected her every moment to go into and she instantly ceased, took hold hysterics. While I was listening to of him by the art, and led him to the and looking at this strange scene form near me, where I saw them both with feelings of mingled pity, disgust, kneel down. He seemed to take it and indignation, a man, dressed in a coolly; the young woman began, as very long black coat which reached it were, to belabour him with her to his knees, and in a white silk hand- prayers, and groans, and exhortations, kerchief, made his way from the centre leaning close over him, and placing her of the throng, singing as he went to hands on his back from time to the form where were the couple first time. She had really a pretty face, described. He immediately kneeled but it was quite distorted with excite down beside them with a kind of fa- ment. After a few minutes spent miliar business-like air! in this manner she rose, exhorting "Come, friend! The Lord says he's him to 66 go on praying "—and ready for thee, too! He's waiting to hurried back to the group she put a wedding garment on thee! Here had quitted. He, too, immediately He is! Look, man, for thyself! He's afterwards rose, and walked past me, going all about this room, looking still eyeing the young woman who whom He shall save-look at Him" had left him. Seeing that I was, evi“Oh, Lord! oh, Jesus!-oh-o-o!" cried the youth. "Ay, pray thus, and He must come; He can't help himself; He loves it! Come! thou must believe now! The devil will have thee this night if thou doesn't!-there-that's it! that's it!" as the wretched fellow redoubled his dently, merely a curious strangerand, I suppose, giving credit to my appearance as that of a mere man of the world come to see the sport-he actually thrust his tongue into his cheek, and winked his eye at me as he passed! Of course, I took no notice of him further than returning his impudent look pretty sternly. He made his way into the group to which the young woman had returned probably with most improper motives. I subsequently learned that things of this sort had several times taken place -low scoundrels, like the one I had observed, coming in, pretending to be in earnest, and then taking advantage of the foolish and excited females who may attend upon them to insult them; at least I was subsequently told as much. There were several persons, who seemed to be leading ones, who from time to time came up to people standing about, and whom they soon persuaded to kneel down with them, when similar scenes to those I have been describing ensued. I observed two or three of these people eyeing me, as I stood aloof leaning against the wall, and watching their proceedings with intense and melancholy interest-looking as if they longed to do by me as they were doing by others; but, to protect myself from any of their absurd and offensive importunities, I looked as stern and repulsive as I possibly could-and for a time succeeded in gaining my object. At length, however, two men, dressed in long black coats, with white neckhandkerchiefs-of very coarse vulgar features and appearance-came up to me boldly, and the dreaded struggle began. "Well," said one of them, placing a huge red hand upon my shoulder in a confident, familiar style-I ins antly dislodged his hand-"art thou, friend, come to see Jesus, and get thy soul saved? Down on thy knees; no time to be lost!-Come" "Yes, sir, you need salvation!" said the other, in a tone and manner of forced confidence, with a manifest sheepishness in his countenance, and evidently abashed by my manner. "Who is the minister of this place?" I inquired, as dryly and frigidly as possible, thinking thus to parry their attack. "Mr. Aitkin, sir," replied the lastmentioned man. "What is the name of the body of Christians who worship here?" I continued with a very polite, but distant air. "This is the church of Christ-the mystical body of Christ, who have no other head; we are his people, and He is here. He's waiting to save you?" said the first man. "Come, come,' and he took hold of my hand, as if he would lead me to a form, where I was to kneel down, and he beside meHeaven save the mark! 66 Really, sir," said I, civilly, but resolutely, "I shall feel particularly obliged if you will not trouble yourself on my account. I assure you I am not accustomed to such familiarities-I-I cannot allow it, sir," forcibly removing my hand from his. He seemed for a moment abashed, but he returned to the charge. "Ah, friend, this haughty air won't do in the Day of Judgment. You'll find that a gentleman may be damned, for all his airs!" "Forgive me," said I, calmly and even respectfully, "I trust I have not ventured to show any airs,' as you call them" "There, down on your knees," he interrupted, resuming his confidence. I shook my head, and smiled, somewhat bitterly, perhaps. "What is the name of this church?" I inquired, turning round to the friend on my right; but I forgot his answer. The other asked me to what church "I fancied" I belonged. I told him to the Church of England. "That's not the church of Christ," said the confident friend on my left. "His is a mystical church; and we are of it. This is His church" "Then he has got a noisy church of it," said I. 66 Friend, you come to mock; you should remain to pray." "You are wrong, sir; I came to look on seriously, to see if such things really" "Come, come, down on your knees, and you shall soon feel and know that this is indeed the day of salvation. You can't do without it." Again he put his rude hand on my shoulder. 66 Really, sir, you will compel me to leave the room.' "But you mustn't-you must get your carnal heart changed," he continued, impudently. 66 66 You drive me away." No, no-I want you to fall on your knees." I quitted the room, to get rid of his pestilent importunities, with feelings which I cannot describe-feelings of mingled pity, indignation, astonish ment, contempt. I protest that I have "set down naught in malice," in writing the above, but have given as sober and faithful an account of what took place as I know how to give of any thing; and if you, dear Christopher, or any one to whom you may show this long letter, should think that I must have coloured and overcharged this description, all I say is, get any friend at Liverpool, on whom you can rely, to go to Mr. Aitkin's church in Mount Pleasant, and then tell you whether he can corroborate or contradict my statements-whether he could not add to them. From what I could discover I suspect Mr. Aitkin's flock must be a kind of offshoot from the Wesleyan Methodists, who, however, never go so far as I have been describing, though I have one or twice, some fifteen or twenty years ago, witnessed scenes in their chapels not very far inferior to the one in question. I believe, however, that the leading members of that extensive and very respectable persuasion now discountenance such wild, irrational, indecorous, and even impious proceedings; and when they shall have got rid of a few other peculiarities of feeling and of discipline, and prejudices, may it not be hoped that this excellent section of Christians will return into our Established Church? I returned to my lodgings about half past nine, and, after giving Q. an account of what I had just been witnessing, retired to my bedroom, where I found every thing packed up in readiness for our early start in the morning. I slept soundly, and rose at five, called by Q.'s vigilant servant. Despite, however, all our precautions, we escaped only with the skin of our teeth, being once more TOO LATE. Our fly rattled down Mount Pleasant as fast as it could well go, but it struck six-sad sound to our too negligent ears! as we drove into the railway station-yard, and we knew that they started punctually; while we had yet to get our luggage out and put in, to pay the residue of our fare, and to get our tickets. We were in an agony of nervousness. Our luggage would get wrongly placed; then we had to get change for a ten-pound note; then we had to shout out to the people to say that we were ready, while those within the office were saying that it was our own fault, &c. Lo! just as we were counting over the change we had received we heard a sound-we cast our eye on the huge train-alas ! the monster was moving-and while the thing was moving we hastily got into our appointed place-smack went the door, and in a moment we were under the tunnel, in whose gloom and silence we had leisure to recover from our flurry, curse our folly, and make good resolutions! The morning was much finer than that on which we had come to Liverpool; and it was pleasant enough to be rattling rapidly along amid the cheering sunshine, instead of having our former melancholy accompani ments of wind, hail, snow, rain, fog, and sleet. We reached Birmingham by a quarter past eleven, having started from the tunnel at Liverpool at about twenty minutes to seven-a far quicker journey than our former one. Certainly, railroad travelling is delightful, both from the advantages afforded by its surprising rapidity, and the convenience-not to say the luxury-of its accommodations. You have as much room as you can wish for: no ill-bred or ill-natured, or disproportionatelysized fellow-passenger can annoy you by encroaching on the limits set apart for you: the vehicle in which you travel is airy and commodious-you are at an amply sufficient distance from your opposite neighbours; and, really what a thing it will be ere long to be able to calculate confidently upon a journey to and from London and Liverpool, in right pleasant style, and in six or eight hours! This will be, indeed, an approximation, at least, towards "the annihilation" of "time and space." About half-past eleven o'clock-after taking a biscuit and a glass of wine-we got into the coach Alas, how |