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at sea, very much to the satisfaction of both parties, from two passing ships.

A few minutes afterwards we dropped our anchor not far from a brig we had nearly scraped in coming in, and which also had German passengers on board. She had come from Hamburgh, and brought emigrants to the Brazils.

I waited impatiently for sunrise, and with daybreak I was up; but could see nothing of the shore, as a thin fog or mist lay over the water, and even the nearest ridges of the mountains were but dimly visible. Soon, however, the sun arose ; I could see the red orb through the vapoury veil. Higher and higher it ascended; the fog sunk down to the water's edge, and hills and valleys, palmcrowned isles, white shining forts, and shady groves and villas, with hundreds and hundreds of ships and skimming boats rose as by magic into view.

Where can I find words to picture the beauty, the grandeur of that scene, as it appeared at that moment? Even the most indifferent of our passengers stood on deck, without uttering a sound, and saw in mute astonishment a new and glorious world spring up around. Their first amazement overcome, their tongues again won utterance, and the words "beautiful," "splendid," glorious,"

were heard on every side.

Our principal care now was, to get as soon as possible on shore; but this could not be done till

we were reported by the medical authorities to be free from any epidemic. The doctor came at last in his long yawl, pulled by eight negroes; and as there was not a sick man on board, he gave permission to crew and passengers to go ashore as soon and as long as they pleased.

He had not left the ship-for we were all cocked and primed, and perfectly ready to go off— when down dropped our yawl; and four of our sailors carolling forth an old German song: "The Brazils are not far from here," pulled us ashore.

The

The city of Rio de Janeiro made a profound impression upon us, as long as we saw it from afar; but it loses a great deal of its beauty-and with how many things upon this wide world is not that the case-on a nearer acquaintance. streets are, with very few exceptions, narrow and dirty, and masses of slaves, with innumerable coloured variations, meet the eye wherever it wanders, exciting a painful feeling in the mind of the European, which even the beauty of surrounding nature, hardly visible indeed in those high and narrow streets, cannot soften.

But however much we might have been astonished at everything we saw-for nearly everything was new to us-we, on our part, could by no means astonish the natives. "California," was their invariable cry, wherever they met any one of our party; and as the harbour was at the same

time perfectly filled with emigrant ships for that country, the word was constantly ringing along the streets whenever any emigrants appeared.

One of our fellow-passengers, a little Jew from Berlin, who dressed exceedingly fine, and, as he thought, exactly in the fashion of Rio de Janeiro, became at last so annoyed by these incessant exclamations, that he wished to free himself from them; and thinking the broad-brimmed black hat he wore, the only possible mark by which his tormentors could guess the place of his destination, bought himself a new and genuine Brazilian hat -not even trusting the one he had on board, though it was exactly of the same shape. He paid an extravagant price for a rather indifferent hat; but as he smilingly stepped out from the store with this prize on his head, which was to class him among the sons of the soil, the first sound that reached his ear was the dreaded and detested greeting of "California."

A bull-fight being announced, some of us repaired to the arena, to view the spectacle. We found a pretty large arena surrounded by raised and guarded wooden benches and boxes, just white-washed enough to soil our dark clothing,. On one side were some large square boards, painted over and ornamented with homely pictures of men, behind which, as I found afterwards, the bull-fighter sought shelter when hard pressed; and

all round the ring were fastened long pieces of wood, to afford hit the means of climbing up out of the reach of the enraged animals, when the other retreat was not accessible.

A couple of very indifferent clowns tried to be funny in the centre of the arena-one of them, a counterfeit negro, executed also a few negro dances, but nobody laughed. The Spaniards looked on as sober as judges; and an English sailor, a little the worse for liquor, jumped down, and tried to beat the clown; but made off amidst roars of laughter and applause when he saw the doors suddenly thrown open, expecting, of course, that nothing Jess than a couple of ferocious bulls, or some other wild animals, were coming in. But the bulls were not ready yet; and the new-comers were only two of the fightors on horseback, followed by six or sight others on foot, all attired in gaudy and glittering dresses,

Behind them sneaked another figure, which was no less a person than the fiend himself, who had been promised to the public in the large posting-bills with prominent letters, as El Diabo. He was dressed in his favourite colours, yellow and red, which run in long stripes, about three inches broad, from head to foot; he sported besides a small pair of black and tolerably soft horns, and a long pliant tail of the same colour, which dragged behind through the sand. At first,

we all thought he would be one of the most valorous combatants of the whole; but as soon as he saw the bull coming, he slipped behind one of the screens, and appeared soon afterwards close to the main entrance behind the planks, and safe enough from all danger.

One of the horsemen, clad as a Spanish knight, and bearing an extraordinary resemblance to the Emperor Napoleon, opened the battle; but the bull showed the white feather, and would not fight. A second bull was forthcoming-a little lively animal; it soon broke one of its horns, which were all guarded by round wooden or metal balls, and was unable to prolong the contest. A little black bull followed afterwards, but worried by a numberless crowd of men, and having his dulled horns rendered nearly harmless, he did little to enliven the scene, and soon tired out the spectators.

Finally, a kind of small pavilion, made of thin lattice-work, pasted over with red paper, and having four open doors, was raised in the arena, and in this was placed a table and chairs, with some plates and knives and forks, when the whole party of men pretended to sit down to breakfast, while another wild bull was let into the arena. Of course he was expected to break into the pavilion, and upset the table, and scatter the banquet; but the bull was too well-bred to do any such thing, and nothing could induce him to disturb the convivial party.

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