just below the parapet is a cornice ornamented with stone cannon, in imitation of the early invented ones, formed of bars of iron welded together, or rings twisted. It has long passed from the family of that name. A fine avenue of trees leads up to it and commands, from the rising ground, an extensive and beautiful prospect of Dalston, the vale, the woods of Rose, and the distant fells. The traces of a Roman encampment are observable in front. Hence the city of Carlisle is in sight the whole way till you enter it by the suburbs of Shaddongate.

CARLISLE.

The limits of this work will not allow of a large and minute description, but only of such particulars as shall appear to be most interesting to the lake tourist.

The city has lost many objects of antiquity, and wears as neat, clean, and stately an aspect as any within the borders. It stands on a gentle eminence in the midst of an extensive plain, watered by the Petteril and Caldew, which here unite with the Eden, and from their banks as foregrounds join in pleasing combinations with the distant city. Approach it as you may, it is seen to great advantage. From the south, after passing through the suburbs of Botchergate, adorned with the new edifice of Christ Church, the entrance is between the courthouses, impressing the stranger with the not improbable idea that he is entering through the bastions of a fortified city. The entrance from the west is graced by Trinity Church of Gothic architecture, while admiration is excited by the

K

Infirmary, a noble Doric building, and in front frown the ramparts and massy keep of the Castle. The road from Glasgow approaches the city from Stanwix Bank, where the east or Newcastle road. joining it, they pass into the town over the substantial bridge crossing the Eden. From the Newcastle road is presented the most picturesque view the meadows and woods of Rickerby, the bridges, and over them the castle and cathedral, are the most striking objects.

:

This city is well supplied with public walks lying around in various directions; these the tourist should by all means perambulate, particularly those on the northern banks of the river, along which passed the Roman Wall. From Etterby Scar, lying on this side of the river, a mile down the stream, is perhaps the most extensive and lovely. On the brink of the precipice the stranger takes his stand. At his feet roll the rapid waters of the Eden, which he sees forming a large semicircular sweep. Full in front over a beautiful level tract of meadow, intersected by the Caldew and partially divided by hedge-rows, lies the city, the long high roof and square tower of the cathedral crowning its highest ground. The castle with its towers, and walls, and buttresses, occupies the whole centre. On the right are the suburbs of Caldewgate, the church, the canal basin, and shipping, with the infirmary; and over all, far away, are seen the range of mountains, amongst which we have been so long roaming, Helvellyn just discernible, Blencathra peeping over the Stack between Carrock Fell and High Pike, beyond which towers the noble Skiddaw. On the left again of the cathedral, lies the densest part of the

city, in whose serrated ridge may be distinguished Saint Cuthbert's Church, and the town hall, the round towers of the court houses, and the slender spire of Christ Church, in Botchergate. Over the lengthened bridge is a tract of rich land, sprinkled with farm-steads and seats; and beyond the woods of Corby, the eastern fells terminating in the distant, but aspiring Crossfell. Nearer at hand the high banks are enlivened with the ancient village of Stanwix and the hamlet of Etterby. By moving into the field behind and looking in the contrary direction, the panorama is completed, from Criffel rising in azure over the long silvery tide of the Solway, which is visible, Burnswark, and the distant range of Scotch mountains, to the crags, bounding the wastes of Gilsland and Bewcastle.

The Castle is at the north-west corner of the city, on a bold eminence, overlooking the river Eden. It was begun in the reign of William Rufus ; since which it has undergone many changes, and been the scene of various historical occurrences. At present it consists of a large area, surrounded by strong walls, entered through an embattled gate-way, in which the portcullis still frowns, and within are various buildings for infantry.

An inner area was originally defended by a half-moon battery, now removed, though the gate-way remains, through which is the approach to the great keep, at present used as an armoury. The angular tower in which Mary of Scotland was imprisoned, has, after having been appropriated to barracks, lately been taken down. This fortress is now used as the depôt of an infantry regiment, and a small detachment of artillerymen are stationed to take care of the armoury. There is something very interesting in its

2

appearance, and it is chiefly valuable as a massy feature giving a character to the distant appearance of the city.

The Cathedral is a noble building, deprived indeed of the greatest part of its nave. What remains is of ever-during Norman architecture, with low round pillars and circular arches; it is now very neatly fitted up as the parish church of St. Mary. The transepts are narrow, without aisles, and of the same style; from the south end the cloisters originally extended; the north transept is used as the consistory court. The choir is supported on clustered piers, with enriched capitals, from which spring eight pointed arches; above is an elegant inforium of three openings, and a clerestory which once had a rich parapet, pierced with foliated circles, but wantonly destroyed. The tabernacle work or stalls is of very elegant carved oak, black with age. The pulpit and throne are modern and not so rich in design. The roof is

vaulted in stucco with cross springers. The east window is by far the finest decorated window in the kingdom; it consists of nine lights, and the head is filled with the richest flowing tracery conceivable; it is, however, painful to add, that it is in a state of rapid decay. The north and south aisles of the choir are similar in character and terminated by windows of two lights. Beneath the sill of the aisle windows a row of beautiful niches is continued all round. In the north aisle Dr. Paley lies buried—a fine mural monument simply recording his name and age. In the choir, Bishops Law and Smith are interred, both eminent in their generation. The prevailing style of the choir is early English, the east end being decorated. The

entrance into the abbey is under an ancient gateway, having a circular arch, round which is an inscription purporting its having been built by Christopher Slee, Prior. Within the precincts are the deanery and prebendal houses, the fratry and register office. The deanery contains, in its square tower built by Prior Senhouse, a fine apartment used as a drawing-room, whose ceiling is worthy of inspection: it is of oak, carved in square pannels, the intersecting knots being highly adorned, and the whole painted in different colours, with armorial bearings emblazoned on shields, and mottoes scattered about. The fratry or refectory of the ancient priory is now used as the chapter-room; it is adorned at each end by paintings of Christ rising from the tomb, and St. John preaching in the wilderness, presented by the Earl of Lonsdale : the south front is lighted by a row of elegantly proportioned windows of the Tudor style, the opposite wall is ornamented with three niches, whose crocketted canopies are delicately chiselled and supported by slender pillars. In this building is a curious stone chair, having an impanelled foliated ceiling, called the confessional. From the abbey the cathedral is seen in the best point of view; a low square and embattled tower rises over the intersection of the cross. The east end cannot be viewed but in pieces: its centre is filled by the magnificent window, on each side of which rise buttresses with crocketted pinnacles; the gable is adorned with crosses and its blank space filled with a right angled spherical window. The design of this front is one of grandeur, the great size of the window, the boldness of the buttresses, and the richness of the crockets, cresses, and finials, unite in