water forces its course. Lower down is a view of Buttermere, with High Street and High Crag in the distance. The sheep-farm-house and others called Gatesgarth, stand at the end of Honistar Crag, half a mile from the head of the lake, which is here seen under the Hay Stacks, High Stile, and Red Pike, with the wooden bridge between Buttermere and Crummock, and the inn. From this hamlet are several fine views of the lakes. Hasness is on the banks of Buttermere, whence it is a mile to the inn, which is more closely and deeply entrenched in mountains than any other. BUTTERMERE Is a mile and a quarter long, half a mile broad, and about fifteen fathoms in depth. It is situated in a valley of its own name, and is encompassed by superb rocky mountains. Buttermere Moss and Robinson bound it on the east; the Hay Stacks, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike on the west; and the north end or outlet is separated from Crummock Water by a fertile plain of meadows. The chapel of ease is a small ancient building, scarcely capable of holding more than two score souls. "A man must be very insensible who would not be touched with pleasure at the sight of this chapel, so strikingly expressing by its diminutive size, how small must be the congregation there assembled, as it were, like one family; and proclaiming at the same time to the passenger, in connection with the surrounding mountains, the depth of that seclusion in which the people live that has rendered necessary the building of a separate place of worship for so few. The edifice is scarcely larger than many of the single stones or fragments of rock which are scattered near it." Scale Force is often visited from Buttermere. From the inn there is a foot-path, but over very swampy ground; it is, therefore, better to take a boat and row down Crummock Lake about a mile; on landing, a rugged path brings you to it. 'It springs at once, with sudden leap, From rock to rock, with shivering force rebounding This is the deepest fall, the water being hurled downwards in one clear leap of one hundred and fifty-six feet, next in another of forty-four feet. The chasm into which the waters sink is from twelve to twenty feet in width, and is between two walls of sienite, beautifully covered with trees, which have fixed their roots in the interstices, whilst the sides are clad with a profusion of plants. The coolness and dampness are very great and will soon warn the tourist from this stupendous scene. CRUMMOCK LAKE Is three miles in length, three quarters of a mile in breadth, and twenty-two fathoms in depth. This lake abounds in trout and char, and receives its main supply of water from Buttermere, from which it is parted by low flat meadows, that are little more than half a mile in breadth. Melbreak rises abruptly on the west side: Rannerdale Knott forms a bold promontory projecting from Buttermere Hawse, which advances up to Grasmire and Whiteside, that close it on the east. Its waters flow out by the Cocker under a pretty bridge. It has three small islands, one a rock, the other covered with wood, but being too near the shore, they add nothing to its beauty. The best general views are from Buttermere Hawse on the east, and from the road between Scale Hill and Lowes Water. But the mountains of this vale and those at the head of Newlands are nowhere so impressive as from the bosom of this lake, some of the loftiest rising from its very margin. The middle part of the lake presents the utmost grandeur. In passing along the eastern side of this water to the inn at Scale Hill, after leaving the hamlet of Langthwaite Green, the tourist has a fine view of the rural and cultivated vale of Lorton, with the Cocker winding its way, along a rocky channel, sparkling with numerous cascades, between banks fringed with wood. The vale is about three miles in length, bounded by lofty mountains, and is a parochial chapelry under Brigham. Scale Hill is a commodious inn, where boats may be had, and from hence Lowes Water may be most conveniently visited. LOWES WATER Is a narrow lake extending more than a mile in length, and from five to ten fathoms in depth. It is tame at its head, the water being bordered with little cultivated estates, the dwelling-houses in the centre, and the green enclosures lying around. But when viewed in the contrary direction, it presents a magnificent assemblage of mountains at its outlet, where its waters flow out, passing the Hamlet into Crummock Water. The mountains that lie around are high and rocky, rising abruptly from their bases and assuming conical forms. The declivities are covered with brushwood and scattered trees, adding greatly to the romantic and diversified scenery of the country. The stranger may proceed to Cockermouth through Lorton, or return by Whitehaven, or retracing his ground to Buttermere Chapel, pass through Newlands. The road over Whinlatter presents some grand views of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water, Grisdale Pike keeping you company on the right for some distance. On the top of the road Thornthwaite village and Jenkin Hill, flanked right and left by Longside and Dodd, and Thornthwaite Fell, with Bassenthwaite Water overtopped by Binsey, is the first prospect that stops you. A little further on, Derwent Water with Vicar's Island, Lord's Island, the Isthmus, and Keswick, are seen lying beneath Wallow Crag, Falcon Crag, and Bleabury Fell; over which rise Skiddaw, Saddleback, Mell Fell, Wanthwaite Crag, St. John's Dodd, Stybarrow Dodd, Styx, and Helvellyn. The road proceeds through Braithwaite to Keswick. NEWLANDS. The road through Newlands leaves the chapel and advances by a very steep and long ascent between Robinson and Whiteless Hill; these mountains present nothing but endless grassy slopes which is the characteristic of the scenery all the way till you get down to Keskadale, the first houses in Newlands. The views in this valley are chiefly of rural description, adorned with all the beauties The of luxuriant nature and decorated with wood. mountains are beautiful and picturesque in their forms, generally green to their summits, looking down upon comfortable houses, seated amid enclosures of emerald verdancy, irrigated and refreshed by gentle streams, now lost amidst the luxuriant growth of leafy trees, now betraying themselves by their bright sparkling. On the right a fine branch of this vale extends to Dale Head, guarded on the south by Maiden Moor and High Crag, on the north by Goldscope and Hindsgarth. At Stony Croft Bridge the road turns on the left to Cockermouth; and at Stair Mill is the way to Newlands Chapel, which is under Crossthwaite. A rude bridge here forms a picture with Causey Pike. The traveller will now get a pretty glimpse of Bassenthwaite, screened by Barrow and Swinside, with Caer Mot in the distance. Between Foe Park and Swinside is a retrospective view, beautiful and grand, of Newlands. Through Portinscale we shall again arrive at Keswick, of which we must now prepare ourselves to take leave. Hence we shall proceed to Carlisle and its neighbourhood, returning through the vale of Eden to Penrith. The stranger, however, who has not time for this lengthened excursion may pass directly to Penrith. The little deviation on the left, avoiding the barren waste of Hutton Moor for the purpose of seeing Greystoke Castle and church, will amply repay him. It is the residence of H. Howard, Esq., to whom it was bequeathed by the late Duke of Norfolk. Four miles and a half from Keswick on the Penrith road is Threlkeld, an irregular built village, on the south side of Blencathra, with a fine view up |