habit and ensign of the order are a garter, mantle, cape, George, and collar. The first three were assigned the knights companions by the founder; and the George and collar by Henry VIII. The garter challenges pre-eminence over all the other parts of the dress, as from it the order is denominated. It is the first part of the habit presented to foreign princes and absent knights, who, as well as all other knights elect, are therewith first adorned: and it is of so great honor and grandeur, that by the bare investiture with this noble ensign, the knights are esteemed companions of the greatest military order in the world. It is worn on the left leg between the knee and calf, and is enamelled with this motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense.

The mantle is the chief of those vestments made use of on solemn occasions. It is of blue velvet lined with white taffeta; and to its collar is fastened a pair of long strings, with large tassels, called 'cordons,' made of blue silk intermixed with gold. On the left breast of this mantle are placed the arms of the order within the garter, richly embroidered. The mantle worn by the sovereign is distinguished by having a longer train than that of the knights. The color of these mantles is, by the founder's statute, appointed to be blue; and it so continued till the reign of queen Elizabeth, when it was changed to purple, and this was retained till about the twelfth year of king Charles I., when he restored the color of the mantle to its original institution. The surcoat, or kirtle, as well as the mantle, was originally composed of woollen cloth, and so continued till the reign of Edward IV., about which time it was also made of velvet. Anciently, the color of this vesture changed every year, commonly into blue, scarlet, sanguine in grain, or white; it is now made of crimson velvet, lined with white taffeta.

The hood was formerly worn on the head at all public ceremonies, and made of the same materials as the mantle, and sometimes was trimmed or set off with a small proportion of garters; but it is not now used in the same manner as formerly, but remains fixed to the mantle as part of the habit; and, instead of the hood, the knights now wear on their heads a cap of black velvet, deep in the crown, lined with taffeta, and adorned with a large plume of ostrich feathers, in the centre of which is a tuft or aigrette of heron's feathers; these feathers are usually fixed to the cap by a band of diamonds. The custom of wearing these caps and feathers, at the great solemnities of the order, had sometimes been omitted, in and before the reign of James I., and therefore, in a chapter held on the 13th of April, in his tenth year, the custom of wearing the cap and feathers was established.

The collar of the order is of gold, weighing thirty ounces Troy; it is composed of twenty-six pieces, in the form of the garter enamelled blue, with the motto of the order in gold; in the centre of each garter is a rose, enamelled red, seeded gold, and leaved green: these twenty-six garters are fastened together with as many knots of gold. At the middle of it, pendent to one of the garters, is the badge of the order, being the figure of St. George armed, sitting on horseback,

and with a spear, encountering a dragon, which lies on his back under the horse's feet.

The left shoulder has from the institution been adorned with a larger garter, with the device, Honi soit, &c. Within this is the cross of the order, which was ordained to be worn at all times by king Charles I. At length the star was introduced, being a sort of cross irradiated with beams of silver. In 1551 Edward VI. made some alterations in the ritual of this order: that prince composed it in Latin, the original whereof is still extant in his own hand-writing. He there ordained, that the order should no longer be called the order of St. George, but the order of the garter; and, instead of the George, hung at the collar, he substituted a cavalier, bearing a book on the point of his sword, with the word, protectio graven on the sword, and verhum Dei on the book: with a buckle in the left hand and the word fides thereon. When the knights do not wear their robes, they are to have a silver star on the left side; and they commonly bear the picture of St. George; enamelled on gold, and beset with diamonds, at the end of a blue riband, crossing the body from the left shoulder. They are not to appear abroad without the garter, on penalty of 6s. 8d. paid to the register.

As this is one of the most splendid and favorite orders of the knighthood in this country, or even in Europe, we add an account of the Installation of the duke of Rutland, the earl of Hardwicke, the duke of Beaufort, the marquis of Abercorn, the earl of Pembroke and Montgomery, the earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham, and the earl of Chesterfield, on the 23rd of April, 1805.

On the morning of installation, at ten o'clock, the Knights Companions began the procession, in the following complete habit of the order, consisting of a black velvet plume, white ostrich feathers, and heron sprig: a purple velvet mantle, lined with white silk; gold and purple cordons; collar of the order; crimson velvet hood, and crimson velvet surcoat; silver tissue jacket, and puffed breeches; white silk pantaloons; white kid shoes; silver shoe roses, and silver knee ditto, garter, &c. The officers of the order in their mantles, the Knights elect in their under habits, having their caps and feathers in their hands, and the honorable captain Yorke, the proxy of the earl of Hardwicke, in his ordinary habit, attended the Sovereign in the royal apartment. The Officers of Arms, and the four Serjeants at Arms, with their maces, attended in the Presence Chamber; the Prebends, Poor and Naval Knights, as also the kettle drums, and house trumpets, in the Guard Chamber. The honorable captain Yorke, proxy for the earl of Hardwicke, walked in the procession, dressed in his naval uniform. At eleven o'clock, a discharge of guns announced the procession.

The Sovereign coming under his state, Garter King of Arms called over the knights; and a procession was made from the royal apartment, through the Presence and Guard Chambers; the end of St. George's Hall; the late private chapel: the passage leading to the great stairs; descending which, through the hall to the great court; and from thence, to the south door of St. George's Chapel, in the following order:—

mained standing. The Register, Garter, and Deputy Black Rod, making their reverences together, stood before their form. The Prelate and Chancellor did the same. The Sword of State, with the Lord Chamberlain on his left hand (the Sovereign being seated), stood on the steps before, or under the sovereign's stall. The Sovereign made one reverence to the altar; and, being in his stall, repeated the same; the train bearers standing upon the steps leading to the sovereign's stall.

Garter then went into the middle of the choir, and making his double reverence, waved his sceptre towards his Royal Highness the prince of Wales; who, thereupon came from under his banner, made his reverences, and ascended into his stall; where, repeating his reverences, he sat down. All the other knights continued standing under their banners. The Prelate was conducted to the altar by the verger of St. George's Chapel; and the two Prebends, by the same Verger.

Then Garter, with the usual reverences, the organ and band playing the Dead March in Saul, and Dirge in Sampson, took up the banner of his Serene Highness the late duke of Saxe Gotha; and holding it up, the Provincial Kings of Arms joined, and making their reverences, repaired to the two senior knights; who thereupon joined, making their reverences together, and received the banner from Garter, which they carried, the point foremost, a little declining; and being preceded by the said Provincial Kings of Arms, advanced to the first step of the altar; where they repeated their reverences; and coming to the rails, made reverences to the altar; then kneeling, they delivered the banner to the Prelate, who, assisted by the Prebends, placed it upright at the south end of the altar.

The two knights then returned with like reverence, and stood upon their banners. The sword was then delivered by Garter to the next senior knights; who, attended by the said Provincial Kings of Arms, offered the same, the hilt upwards, with like ceremonies. The helm and crest were offered by the two next senior knights, with the same ceremony, attended by the said Provincial Kings of Arms. The achievements of the late marquis of Stafford, of the late duke of Beaufort, and the late duke of Roxburgh, were offered with the same ceremonies, by the six senior knights, not of the blood royal, attended each time by two heralds, in rotation. Then Garter, bowing to each knight (the senior first), summoned him to ascend into his stall; when he made his reverences, and the same were repeated when in the stalls. All the knights being in their stalls, Garter summoned the two senior knights under their banners, in order to install the duke of Rutland; and a procession was made to the Chapter-house, all making the usual reverences, on going out of the choir.

The procession passing to the west end of the choir only, entered the choir, all making the usual reverences; Garter, with the Register and Deputy Black Rod, went under the stall appointed for his grace; Garter placing the cushion upon the desk of the lower stall.

The two knights, with the duke, entered into the lower stall, where the Register administered the following oath, Deputy Black Rod holding

the Gospels:-'You being chosen to be one of the honorable company of the most noble order of the Garter, shall promise and swear, by the Holy Evangelists, by you here touched, that wittingly, and willingly, you shall not break any statute of the said order, or any article in them contained, unless you shall have first received a dispensation from the sovereign, the same being agreeable, and not repugnant to the will of God and the laws of the realm, as far forth as to you belongeth and appertaineth, so help you God and his Holy Word.' The two knights then conducted his grace into the upper stall; the Register and Garter entering into the lower stall; the Deputy Black Rod remaining in the area. Garter then presented the mantle to the knights, who invested his grace therewith, the Register reading the following admonition :-' Receive this robe of heavenly color, the livery of this most excellent order, in augmentation of thy honor, ennobled with the shield and red cross of our Lord, by whose power thou mayest safely pierce troops of thine enemies, and be over them ever victorious; and, being in this temporal warfare glorious in egregious and heroic actions, thou mayest obtain eternal and triumphant joy.' Next Garter presented the hood, which was put on over his grace's right shoulder, the ends of the tippets being brought in front, and passed under the girdle. Then garter presented the great collar and George, with which the knights invested the duke, whilst the Register read this admonition:-Wear this collar about thy neck, adorned with the image of the blessed martyr and soldier in Christ, St. George, by whose imitation provoked, thou mayest so overpass both prosperous and adverse encounters, that, having stoutly vanquished thine enemies, both of body and soul, thou mayest not only survive this transient combat, but be crowned with palms of eternal victory.' Garter then presented the statute-book, which the knights delivered to his grace; and then placing the cap and feathers on his head, they seated him in his stall; and his grace rising up, made his double reverence, viz., first to the altar, then to the sovereign: the knights, after embracing and congratulating him, descended into the middle of the choir, and, making their reverences, went up into their stalls, and, repeating the same, sat down; the officers returning to their places.

Then garter summoned the two knights next in seniority, in order to install the honorable captain Yorke, the proxy for the earl of Hardwicke; who was thereupon conducted, with the same ceremony, into the stall under that appointed for his principal, where the Register administered to him the oath. He was then con ducted into the upper stall; and, the mantle being presented by Garter, the knights put the same over his left arm, so that the cross, embroidered within the garter, might be seen. They then seated the said proxy in the stall, with the ceremony as before-mentioned, and returned to their stalls; the proxy, immediately rising, made his reverences, and remained standing during the rest of the ceremony, with the mantle on his

arm.

The duke of Beaufort, the marquis of Abercorn, the earl of Pembroke, the earl of Winchilsea, and the earl of Chesterfield, were severally intro

duced and installed, in the same manner as the duke of Rutland, and by the same Knights respectively, who introduced them into the Chapter house. The Knights thus installed, divine service began; which was the same with that used in St. George's Chapel on the Obiit Sundays; except that no sermon was preached. Proper psalms, the 21st, 146th and 147th. First lesson, 44th chapter of Ecclesiacticus. Te Deum, composed by Gibbons. Second lesson, 11th chapter of the epistles to the Hebrews. The anthem, a celebrated composition of Handel, selected for the occasion by his majesty, from Psalm the 21st, was sung at the conclusion of the first service. Full chorus-Hallelujah. Communication service-Kyrie Eleeson, by Dr. Child.

At the words of the offertory,' Let your light so shine, &c.'-the organ and band playing the air in Berenice,'-the officers of the wardrobe spread a carpet on the steps of the altar; and Deputy Black Rod, making his obeisances, went up to the rails of the altar, on the right side: where he received from the yeoman of the wardrobe, a rich carpet and cushion, which with the assistance of the yeoman, he laid down for the sovereign to kneel upon. In the mean-time, Garter summoned the knights from their stalls, beginning with the junior; each knight making his reverence in his stall, and repeating the same with his companion, in the choir, retired under his banner. All the knights standing thus under their banners, and the prelate at the altar to receive the offerings, the sovereign, making his reverence to the altar, descended from his stall; and then making another reverence to the middle of the choir; proceded to the offering in the following order:

Garter.

The Register.

The Chancellor. The Lord Chamberlain. The Sword of State. THE SOVEREIGN.

His Majesty's Train, borne as before. The senior Knight, not of the Blood Royal, being the Knight appointed to deliver the offering to the Sovereign, made his reverence as the procession passed; and thereupon, placed himself a little behind his Majesty, on the right side. The Sovereign, coming to the rails of the altar, made a reverence; when Deputy Black Rod, on his knee, delivered the offering to the Knight, who delivered it to the Sovereign; and his Majesty, taking off his cap and feathers, put the offering into the basin, held by the Prelate, assisted by the Prebends. The Sovereign rising, made his reverence to the altar; and, retiring, made another in the middle of the choir; and, when in his stall, another, all the attendants turning as his Majesty did, and making their reverences at the same time. The Knight, who delivered the offering, retired under his banner, when the procession came opposite the same.

All the Knights standing under their banners, the Provincial Kings of Arms joined with usual reverences, and went to his Royal Higness the prince of Wales; who, in the middle of the choir, made his double reverence, viz., first to the altar, then to the Sovereign, and was conducted to the altar; where, taking off his cap,

and making another reverence, he kneeled, and offered gold and silver into the bason; and, returning in the same order, went into his stall, where he made his reverences, and sat down Then two Officers of Arms attended the two next Knights in seniority, being companions; who offered in like manner, and so on, till all the Knights and the Proxy, either singly or in pairs, had offered, and ascended into their Stalls. The Provincial Kings of Arms attended those Knights who were of the Blood Royal; and the senior Heralds in rotation, the other Knights Companions.

Divine service being ended, the Prelate was conducted to his seat by the Verger of St. George's chapel.

The origin of this order is variously related by historians. The common account is, that the countess of Salisbury happening at a ball to drop her garter, the king took it up and presented it to her with these words, 'Honi soit qui mal y pense,' i. e. evil to him that evil thinks. In the original statutes, however, there is not the least hint of allusion to such a circumstance, farther than is conveyed in the motto. Camden, Fern, &c., take the order to have been instituted on occasion of the victory obtained by Edward over the French, at the battle of Cressy. That prince, say some historians, ordered his garter to be displayed, as a signal of battle; in commemoration of which he made a garter the principal ornament of the order erected in memory of this signal victory, and a symbol of the indissoluble union of the knights. And they account for the motto, that king Edward, having laid claim to the kingdom of France, denounced shame and defiance upon him that should dare to think amiss of the just enterprise he had undertaken for recovering his lawful right to that crown; and that the bravery of those knights whom he had elected into this order was such as would enable him to maintain the quarrel against those that thought ill of it. This interpretation, however appears to be rather forced. A still more ancient origin of this order is given in Rastel's Chronicle, lib. vi. quoted by Granger, in the supplement to his Biographical History: viz. that it was devised by Richard I. at the siege of Acre, when he caused twenty-six knights, who firmly stood by him, to wear thongs of blue leather about their legs; and that it was revived and perfected in the nineteenth year of Edward III.

Degradation of a Knight Companion.-The degradation of a knight companion, according to the second article of king Henry VIIIth's statutes, is to be inflicted on all those who shall be found guilty of heresy, treason, or flying from battle.

When a knight companion is found guilty of any of these offences, and is in the dominions of the sovereign, he is usually degraded at the ensuing chapter; and, the sovereign having acquainted the knights companions with his intention to have the ceremony performed, he commands Garter to attend such of them as are appointed to go to the convict knight, who in a solemn manner, first take from him his George and riband, and then his garter. And at the following feast of St. George (or sooner, if the sovereign appoint) publication of his crimes and

degradation is made by Garter, and a warrant issued out to him for taking down the achievements of the knight, which is performed as follows:

First, Garter, in his coat of arms, usually before morning prayer, standing in the middle of the choir in St. George's chapel, the officers of arms standing about him, and the Black Rod also present, reads aloud the instrument for publishing the knight's degradation. This being read, the deputed herald being placed on the back of the stall of the convict knight, when Garter pronounces these words: 'Be expelled and put from among the arms, &c.' takes his crest, and violently casts it down into the choir, and afterwards his banner and sword; and, when the publication is read out, all the officers at arms spurn the achievements out of the choir into the body of the church, first the sword, secondly, the banner, and lastly the crest; so on, out of the west door, thence through the castle-gate, whence they are thrown into the castle ditch.

At a chapter held 32d Henry VIII., it was determined, that wheresoever the actions and names of such offenders should be found in the books of the order, these words, 'Vah Proditor,' should be written in the margin, as a mark of ignominy, by which means the registers would be preserved fair, and not defaced by erasements.

The last knight who was thus degraded, was the duke of Ormond, anno 1, George I., for acting in concert with the French general.

GARTER PRINCIPAL KING AT ARMS. This office was instituted by Henry V. Garter, and principal king at arms, are two distinct offices united in one person: garter's employment is to attend the service of the order of the garter; for which he is allowed a mantle and badge, a house in Windsor Castle, and pensions both from the sovereign and knights, besides fees. He also carries the rod and sceptre at every feast of St. George, when the sovereign is present, and notifies the election of such as are newly chosen; attends the solemnity of their installations, and funerals; takes care of placing their arms over their seats; and carries the garter to foreign kings and princes: for which service it has been usual to join him in commission with some peer, or other person of distinction. Garter's oath relates only to services being performed within the order, and is taken in chapter before the sovereign and knights. His oath as king at arms is taken before the earl marshal.

GARTH or GIRTH, from gird. See GIRTH. GARTH (Sir Samuel), an English poet and physician, descended from a good family in Yorkshire. He studied at Cambridge, where he took the degree of M. D. in 1691, and was admitted into the college of physicians at London in 1693. He zealously promoted the erecting of the dispensary for the relief of the sick poor. This having exposed him to the resentment of others of the faculty, he ridiculed them, with peculiar spirit and vivacity, in a poem called the Dispensary, in six cantos, highly esteemed. He was one of the most eminent members of the Kit-Kat Club. Upon the accession of George I. Dr. Garth was knighted, and made physician to his majest and the army. He had then gone

through the office of censor of the college in 1702; and had a very extensive practice. One of his last performances was his translation of the fourteenth book, and the story of Cippus in the fifteenth of Ovid's Metamorphoses. These were published in 1717. He died in January, 1718-19.

GARTMORN DAM, an artificial lake in Clackmannanshire, formed about the beginning of the eighteenth century, for the use of the Alloa coal-works. When full it covers 162 English acres. The head is faced with rough hewn stone, and measures 320 yards. It has a sluice, which regulates the quantity of water to be conveyed into a lade, which first drives a mill for chipping wood and dye stuffs, next a lintmill; then it is conveyed into pipes forcing it up to two engines, that draw up the water and the coals from the pits; after which it is collected into a smaller dam, and conveyed thence, in a lade, to a set of mills in Alloa for grinding wheat, oats, malt, and barley; which are capable of grinding 400 bolls, or 250 quarters, in a day. There are two large wheels, nineteen feet diameter, in the centre of the house, which drive the whole machinery in both ends of the mills. From these mills, the water falls into a rivulet, that runs through Alloa, drives a snuff and fulling mill, and, passing through some pleasure grounds, comes near the harbour, where it is again confined by a strong dam of earth, a large sluice, and a long trough, both of stone; which gives it a considerable velocity for clearing the harbour; so that this little water, originally a branch of the Black Devon, is made to serve the most important purposes, by driving seven mills besides cleaning the harbour.

GARVE (Christian), an eminent German philosopher and public writer, was born on the 7th of January, 1742, at Breslau, where his father was a Jyer. He studied at the universities of Frankfort, Halle, and Leipsic; at which last place he obtained a professorship, but was soon compelled to resign it on account of bad health. He now returned to his native town, where he continued to spend the remainder of his life. In his last years he suffered much from a painful disease, which he endured with great fortitude. He died at Breslau on the 1st of December, 1798. The celebrated Kant paid him the compliment of saying that 'Garve was a true philosopher, in the legitimate acceptation of the word.'

Garve invented no system of his own, nor did he attach himself to the tenets of any one master. He belonged to that class of philosophers who, without adopting any particular theory, take an impartial view of all systems of doctrine, and seek truth wherever it is to be found. The just and rational view which he inculcated on the subject of our moral and social duties, entitle him to the praise of a genuine practical philosopher. The history of philosophy is indebted to him for several new and ingenious illustrations: and he has left us a faithful though rapid sketch of the ancient and modern doctrines respecting the fundamental principles of moral philosophy. His literary essays display a refined taste, and a genius at once elegant and philosophical. His