a clock, bearing the name of the maker— 'Barraud, London.' A little further on was the church, with the green cupola which was so conspicuous an object from our trenches. The bells were hung under a small detached shed; and French soldiers were tolling them with all their might and great glee, making a deafening noise. How well I knew the sound of them, though under far different circumstances; and the morning of the 5th of November immediately recurred to my recollection. The French were delighted-would call our attention to them-and toll away harder than ever. Every one who passed seemed to think it necessary to practice bellringing, and the row was unceasing.

We went on towards Fort Nicholas, and had just got opposite to Fort Paul-which was on the other side of the creek-apparently deserted, and sound. Suddenly we heard a tremendous crash; the ground and the air shook, and our horses jumped with alarm. People looked at each other in blank dismay, thinking the place was going bodily into the air.

We saw a vast cloud of earth and smoke

248

FORT PAUL BLOWN UP.

where Fort Paul used to be, and then disco

vered that it had been sauté,' and we looked out anxiously for falling beams and stones; but needlessly so, for none came near us. It was long before the cloud cleared off sufficiently for us to see. When it did, all that remained of the fort was a shapeless mass of debris, stones, and timber.

My companion looked as if he wished to go back, no doubt thinking of his placens uxor, who was at Balaklava, and would, no doubt, be uneasy at his absence. As the smoke was so thick that I could hardly see, and we might have got nearer another explosion, I consented. Indeed, while the town was burning, there was very little to be seen; and it was a very dangerous place to remain in.

The French soldiers were very jolly and inclined to fraternize. The entente cordiale was perfect. A sous officier presented me with a Russian book he held in his hand, and which I asked him to let me look at. Others

gave me wine to drink, in some of the houses. was thin, sour stuff.

which they had found

I tasted it, but it

The French were dragging Russians out of cellars and other hiding-places, and marching them off as prisoners. No doubt most of them had been left behind for the purpose of blowing up magazines and keeping the fires going. Just before Fort Paul was blown up, four men were seen to leave it, get into a boat and pull across the harbour. They were in so great a hurry that they could not keep stroke. At the time no one thought anything of it, but no doubt they remained behind for the purpose of firing the magazine. The Russians had made the galleries, &c., for the mines, for the purpose of blowing up Fort Nicholas; but had not time to charge them. They, however, set it on fire and succeeded in burning the guard-house, floors, and traversing platforms.

Indeed, it is wonderful how they managed to do so much in so short a time. No doubt they had for some time meditated abandoning the South side, and the bridge of boats had been built to facilitate their departure; but they had not expected to have been obliged to quit at such short notice. They could not have commenced their retreat before dusk last

250

WHAT THE RUSSIANS LEFT.

evening, and by six this morning they were clear out of the South side, which was a mass of flames. They had blown up their principal magazines, and carried away all that was valuable and portable, leaving nothing behind, except lots of dead and wounded, heaps of clothes, and a horridly offensive smell. Of course I do not take guns, shot, and such heavy stores into consideration, for it would have been impossible for them to have removed such heavy articles in so short a time.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE REDAN.

SAILORS and Zouaves were going about the town wearing helmets and women's bonnets, which they had found in the place, and most grotesque figures they made.

I went to the building with columns and steps like the Temple of Theseus, at Athens ; we used to call it the club or library, but it was, in reality, the church of Peter and Paul. Everything had been cleared from the inside; and shells had fallen through the roof and much damaged it. Here I bought a Russian officer's sword and sword knot from an English