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EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF MR.

BINGHAM, WHILE AT ATOOI.

The Mission House.

No. 8.

The mission house is large, 54 feet by 24, and commodious, having a good floor, doors, glass windows, five bed-rooms, and two large rooms, which are not only convenient for the two families, but answer for a school-room, dining hall, and place for public worship. It stands at the place of landing, near the water's edge, and but a few reds east of the mouth of Wimaah river. On one side it is enclosed by the king's dwelling house, and by a heavy semi-circular wall 10 feet high; and on the other, by the ceaseless. waves of the vast Pacific. In front is a small battery; and back of the wall, which encloses nearly an acre of ground, stands the fort, on the high bank of the river, covering the village. The mountains rising in the north, the ocean on the south, the moon beheld over the eastern part of the island, and the sun setting behind the western, or behind Oneehow, which lies in sight, or sinking, as it were, into the ocean, seen between the two islands,-present a scenery truly grand; but now possessing a degree of famil iarity to the brethren and sisters residing at Wimaah, which gives to that place somer

WB remarked, in our last number, that, for
reasons which Tamoree deemed sufficient,
and which he made known, in a friendly let-
ter, to the missionaries, the voyage to the So-
oiety Islands was postponed for the present.
As the hindrances to this very desirable enter-
prise will not probably be of long duration, and
as no valuable purpose will be answered by a
particular statement, or even by a summary
view of them; we shall barely observe,-that,
from the time the voyage was first suggested,
to the declaration of its being postponed,
nothing transpired to weaken the mutual con-
fidence and friendly feelings, which subsisted
between the missionaries and the chief men
of the islands. On the contrary, the visit of
Mr. Bingham to Atooi, which arose out of
this projected voyage, not only became the
occasion of good, both in respect to informa-
tion received, and instruction imparted; but,
by means of it, the friendly disposition of the
natives was more fully ascertained, and a foun-
dation laid for more free and unrestrained in-thing of the charm of home.

tercourse.

Having been commended to the protection of Almighty God, by their fellow-laborers, Mr. and Mrs. Bingham, Mr. and Mrs. Ruggles, George Sandwich, and several others, embarked, on the 8th of July, 1821, in the Tartar, Capt. Turner, for Atooi.

Arrival of Kaneo.

Soon after noon, Kaneo,* with her at tendants, landed just in front of the mission house, where the king and queen, with joined noses, with loud crying, many tears, their attendants, met her, embraced, and and other expressions of emotion. After some minutes, all sat down together on the sand for a considerable time, till the first bursts of feeling had subsided, when the

July 9. After a quick passage of 20 hours, we came safely to anchor in Wi-king conducted his guests to the house, maah roads, and the king immediately sent a double canoe to take us ashore. Highly gratified to meet our good friend, the king, on the beach, a few rods from the place of landing, I saluted him with a hearty aloha, and with a kiss, as I took his friendly hand. He replied, "I very glad to see you."

VOL. XVIII.

which he had prepared for their reception, by removing a quantity of imported goods lately purchased, and spreading his best mats, both in the house, and the court in front. Having ordered the slaughter of hogs, dogs, &c. for the purpose, he prepared

* Kaneo is one of the queens of the late Tamahamaha. Editor. 31

a full repast for the company. At evening, he resigned his own dwelling house to his guests, and retiring to another, sent out a crier to prohibit the common people from entering the enclosure, where Kaneo and her ladies and servants were lodged, and get a guard also at the gate.

10. The king's company, that is, his wife Tapoolee and particular friends, Kaneo and her attendants, spent much of the day in decorating themselves with a kind of temporary ornaments, which they call "Laualla beads;" and in a favorite amusement of playing in the surf, of which a pretty good description is given in "Trumbull's Voyages." All engage in it, without distinction of rank, age, or sex; and the whole nation is distinguished by their fondness for the water, and the dexterity and faility with which they manage themselves

in that element.

The Surf-board and the manner it is used.

The surf-board, or the instrument used in playing in the surf, is of various dimensions, from three feet in length, and eight inches in breadth, to fourteen feet in length and twenty inches in breadth. It is made of light wood, thin at the edges and ends, but of considerable thickness in the middle, wrought exceedingly smooth, and ingeniously adapted to the purpose of gliding rapidly on the water. The islander, placing himself horizontally on the board, and using his arms as oars, paddles out into the sea, meeting the successive surges, as they roll along towards the shore. If they are high, he dives under them, if they are low, or smooth, he glides over them with ease, till he is ready to return, or till he gains the smooth sea beyond where the surf breaks. Then choosing one of the highest surges, adjusting his board as it approaches him, directing his head towards the shore, he rides on the fore front of the surge, with great velocity, as his board darts along swifter than a weaver's shuttle, while the whitening surf foams and roars around his head, till it dies on the beach, and leaves Mim to return or retire at pleasure. Often, several of them run at the same time, as in a race, and not unfrequently on a wager. The board moves as down an inclined plain, and the art lies principally in keeping it in its proper position, giving it occasionally an accelerating stroke with the hands, so that it shall not lose the propelling force of the wave, and thus fall behind it; or retarding it with the foot, when liable to shoot forward too fast. Sometimes the irregularity or violence of the water tears their board from under them, and dashes it on the rocks; or threatening to carry them into danger, obliges them to abandon it, and save themselves by diving and swimming.

I informed the king, as he sat on the beach witnessing the sport, of the design of building a church, or a house for the public worship of the true God, at Woahoo. He expressed his approbation, and also his intention to send his brig to Taheite.

Various Notices.

14. By the help of Samoo, a pupil of the Taheitan missionaries, who has been in America, and experienced personal kindness from our friend and patron, Dr. Worcester, and who now lives with me, I have commenced a comparison of the language of the Sandwich Islands with that of Taheite, which I hope to be able, with better helps, to pursue hereafter, as I am pleased to find many words in both, precisely alike, and many others radically the same.

15. Sabbath. To-day I have been allowed to preach to a small congregation, composed of this branch of the mission, a few other white people, and a few natives. The king, who was present, and who tarried a short time after service, said he understood a little of the discourse, some parts of which I endeavored to make still more plain to him, by more familiar illustrations. All our intercourse with him hitherto has been pleasant. We long to see him adopted into the Redeemer's family, to embrace him as a Christian brother, and to look on him with social gratitude and confidence, as possessing the pious feelings of a nursing father to the church, as well as a friendly and paternal regard to the missionaries.

16. The king appears to be pleased with George Sandwich. He says he is like the other missionaries, and that he must remain here, and he will give him land, clothes, &c. He would rejoice to see his own son exhibit as much sobriety; and says, if George Tamoree were like George Sandwich, he would hold him fast, and give him a great deal of land, and a plenty of vivi, (goods.) Young Tamoree might be a very great comfort to his father. Today his wife, daughter of Isaac Davis, whom he took at Owhyhee before he had seen his father, brought to our house his little babe very sick, to seek for it some medical aid. Every instance of this kind makes us feel more deeply our need of a faithful and devoted missionary physician, in this land of pollution, disease, and death.

Arrival of Reho-reho.

22. About 3 o'clock, A. M. a small boat arrived, bringing from Woahoo his majesty, Reho-reho, king of the windward islands, Boka, the governor of Woahoo, and Nike, chief of Karakakooah, with about thirty

men and two women. A most singular and hazardous adventure, and as mysterious as to its design, as it was hazardous in its nature, and singular in its manner.

It appears, that, previous to the return of the Cleopatra's Barge to Hanaroorah, the king and his company left that village for Pearl river, a place 12 or 15 miles distant. But, coming down to the leeward part of the island, and having a fair wind, he thought he could fetch Atooi; and, contrary to the wishes and expectations of his attending chiefs, refused to land at Pearl river. Strengthening his heart with such spirits as his beloved bottle afforded, he commanded his boatman to steer for Atooi. All were afraid, and all remonstrated; but in vain. They were without water, provisions, compass, chart, or mariner; embarked in a small open sail-boat, built by a native of the islands, crowded with passengers, stretching out to sea, under the fresh trades, with the presumption, that, riding over the rude waves, they might possibly reach Atooi, one hundred miles distant. But the king, half intoxicated, fearless of danger himself, and regardless of the reasonable apprehensions of others, would hear to no advice or remonstrance; neither the perils of the ocean, nor the hostility of supposed enemies, could alter his purpose to proceed. He assumed the character of master of his little home-built vessel; and, in his merry mood, considered his fingers spread out as representing the different points of the mariner's compass, which he attempted to express in broken English, and thus directed the doubtful course of his frail bark. When the boat was twice nearly oapsized and ready to fill with water, the chiefs and the company said, "We must go back;" but the king said decidedly, "No, bail out the water and go on;" and with something of that spirit, which dictated the proud, artful, and animating address of the dauntless Roman, "Fear not, for thou carriest Cesar," he added, "If you return with the boat, I will swim to Atooi in the sea." At his command they speedily bailed out the water with their calabashes, and continued their course, steering well to the northward, (as the king had a pretty good idea of the bearing of Atooi,) till just before dark, when they saw this island far under the lee bow, then veering to the westward and southward, with great hazard and much inconvenience from the successive breaking of the sea upon them, they reached this place, before the break of day; but in a condition as powerless and defenceless, as the poor missionary, who passes unmolested from island to island. No roaring cannon opposed or welcomed the king's approach,

His reception by Tamoree.

Tamoree, being early apprised of his arrival, rose, and, with apparent composure, dressed himself, and, in a small canoe, with two or three attendants, went out quietly on board the king's boat, gave him his friendly aloha, and the customary salutation of joining noses, (while the company expressed great joy at seeing Tamoree,) then conducted him ashore, and appropri ated to his use a large and convenient house, well fitted for his reception, spread with the beautiful Oneehow-mats; and, at the young king's earnest request, lest his people at Woahoo should conclude that he was drowned in the sea, or killed at Atooi, despatched two of his vessels, a brig and a schooner, to inform them that he had escaped the dangers of the ocean, and landed here in security, where he waited for two of his wives to join him, as he had left all five of them behind.

Thus has the king effected what he long ago proposed, and what he has repeatedly declared to be his intention; but what the friends of both kings, and of the people, desired might not be accomplished. The result is still as doubtful as the nature of the design. Such, however, is the pacific disposition of Tamoree, that, although Reho-reho has put himself completely in his power, we are persuaded he will not hurt a hair of his head, but will pay him due respect as a superior. What could we ask, on this occasion, better than that these two kings should agree together to give their kingdoms to Christ, the rightful proprietor?

Arrival of Boka's wife from Woahoo.

23. It was interesting to witness the safe arrival of governor Boka's wife from Woahoo, this morning, in a single canoe, with a small canvass sail, aided by four men with paddles. Tired and hungry, they put in yesterday at Hanapapa, a valley six or seven miles from this, where lies the farm given to Mr. Ruggles, and tarried there a night; having spent the night before in pursuing the wayward course of the king, upon a rough sea. It is not a very unfrequent case, that natives pass from one island to another in a single canoe, though they often have a fresh breeze and a heavy sea. The contrivance used to prevent the canoe from easily upsetting, consists of a large stick of light wood, about two thirds the length of the canoe, turned up at the ends, somewhat like a sleigh runner, lying on the surface of the water, parallel with the canoe, at the distance of 8 or 10 feet, and connected with it by two smaller sticks, lashed at one end firmly to the top of the canoe, and at the other, bending

down to meet the buoyant stick, that runs upon the water. Still such canoes must be considered very unsafe at sea, for any but the natives. If a sea breaks over them with much violence, they must fill with water, which not unfrequently happens when there is much wind or surf, In such a case, all on board have recourse to their dexterity at swimming; and while some of the number sustain and preserve the articles liable to be lost, others, placing their weight on the very hindermost part of the canoe, elevate the fore end, so that a considerable part of the water flows out; then, casting themselves suddenly off, the canoe becomes more buoyant and manageable, and one of them springing into it bails out the remaining water with a calabash, while the rest resume their places with their little effects, and joyfully pursue their course again, ready, as soon as rested, to encounter another overwhelming sea.

Reho-reho expressed a high degree of sudden, strong, agreeable emotion, by the terms aloha eno, when he learned that Boka's wife had followed him, in a canoe, across the rough channel,

Friendly attentions of the Kings,

24. I went over the river to visit the kings, and invited them to come to the mission house, whenever it should be convenient for them. Reho-reho said, "Shall we go now?" I replied, "If that would be pleasant to you, it certainly would be agreeable to us." They came over the river together in a little boat, and I was brought across on the shoulders of a native, the water then at low tide being but about four feet deep on the bar. Reho-reho met the sisters, as usual, in a civil and friendly manner, seemed a little surprised, and at the same time gratified, to see so flourishing a school of native children. Taking him into my apartment, I gave him leave to recline upon my bed, a privilege, which he generally expects, and which he seemed now to enjoy; but soon rose to hear me read some passages of Scripture, particularly the ten commandments, in his own language. From these specimens of our translation, I took occasion to suggest to him the importance of obtaining the Taheitan books, to aid us in translating the Scriptures for him and his people. Seating himself then with the school, he was pleased to hear them read and spell, and to read himself a few words in the spelling book, two or three verses in John's Gospel, and several select passages from a large Scripture card, which I had before presented to Tamoree. Among the Scriptures, which he read with a little assistance, were the following,-"Thou God, seest me."-"Prepare to meet thy God."-"We shall all stand before the

judgment-seat of Christ." These, and others, I endeavored to expound to him in a short and lucid manner, while he listened with peculiar attention. He seems not to have lost what he had acquired in the art of reading, though it is a year since he laid aside his book; and were he now disposed to resume it, he might soon be forward of the foremost in our schools. Having protracted his visit more than an hour, and surveyed the different apartments of the house, the several employments of the family, &c. he retired, attended by his train. Tamoree, taking each member of the family kindly by the hand, left us with his usual friendly smile.

[Soon after their departure from the humble dwelling of the missionaries, the two kings were found engaged in important transactions, of which we have more than once spoken, but which we have never yet fully described. The following account is contained in the journal.]

An old Treaty renewed.

Tamoree proposes, in a very formal manner, to surrender himself, his island, and all that he has, to Reho-reho; and, with some agitation, addressed him to this ef fect,

"King Reho-reho, hear;-When your father was alive, I acknowledged him as my superior. Since his death, I have considered you as his rightful successor, and, according to his appointment, as king. Now I have a plenty of muskets and powder, and a plenty of men at command,these, with the vessels I have bought, the fort, and guns, and the island, all are yours. Do with them as you please. Send me where you please. Place what chief you please as governor here." Nike, the Karakekooah chief, addressed the coun cil in few words, and referring to the treaty made between the two kings, confirmed the fact, that Tamoree had held this island under Tamahamaha, A solemn silence pervaded the house for some time, while all waited, with deep solicitude, to hear the reply of the young king, on which so much appeared to be suspended. Then, with a mild and manly aspect, he addressed Tamoree as follows,-"I did not come to take away your island. I do not wish to place any one over it. Keep your island, and take care of it just as you have done, and do what you please with your vessels." To this succeeded a shout of cheerful and hearty approbation from all parties, and Ta moree retired from the council, with a peaceful smile. Thus, without noise or bloodshed, the treaty, made with the late king, is recognized and ratified with his san

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and successor,-a treaty, which allowed Tamoree the peaceful possession of the leeward islands, as tributary king. In this transaction it is difficult to say which of the two has shown the most sagacity or magnanimity.

Journey across the Island.

30. Mr. Whitney and myself set out early to go across the island. Our reasons for undertaking this tour at this time, were principally, to explore the country, to see the inhabitants at their dwellings and employments, to meet the two kings on the opposite side of the island; to seek their favor by proper attention to them; to express to them our wishes that our proposed expedition to the Society Isles might not be too long delayed; to obtain, if possible, Reho-rebo's express approbation of our design to teach the people at large to observe the Christian Sabbath, and other duties of the Gospel.

eruptions. A variety of forest trees, besides the sandal-wood, are seen, all different from any that I have ever known in America, Some appear to be suitable for building timber, and some would make very pretty cabinet furniture.

Adventures on the way.

About one o'clock, P. M. it began to thunder, and we were soon enveloped in a cloud, that hung upon the mountains. At two, a heavy shower of rain commenced. We took shelter in a temporary booth, built by the sandal-wood cutters, where we experienced, and had occasion to record, the preserving care of Omnipotence, who made his lightnings play, and thunders roll, harmless around our heads. At three, as the shower appeared to be principally over, and we were anxious to reach the opposite side, if possible, before dark, we passed on; but, to our disappointment, the clouds gathered more thickly over our heads, We hoped to cross the island in a day, and the rain came down copiously upon and took a few cakes, two bottles of water, us, and poured in torrents from the points and a little wine for our refreshment dur- of our half sheltering umbrellas, as We ing the day. Attended by my Taheitan trudged along in a narrow, winding, slipyouth, the faithfnl Samoo, a native domes- pery foot path, on sharp ridges, ascending tic of brother Whitney's, as our guide, and and descending rugged steeps, till we came N. Chamberlain, we set out pretty early in to two little temporary sheds of the woodthe morning, travelling on foot, and crossed cutters, unoccupied, and cheerless as the Wimaah creek, and ascended on the west wastes of desolation, situated in the midst side of it, by a circuitous path, to the high of this inhospitable wilderness, surrounded and mountainous parts, which extend with dreary mountains and deep solitudes, through the whole island. We found no on the bank of a swift mountain torrent, inhabitants residing in the upland country, swelled by the rain. Into these we crept but met several natives, some bringing to seek a partial shelter. The principal down sandal wood upon their shoulders, one, about 20 feet in length, and 8 in others firewood. The former is brought in breadth, consisted chiefly of a few poles, this manner, the distance of from 10 to 20 resting partly on the ground, and supported miles. I attempted to raise up one man's in front by little crotches, four feet high, burden from his shoulder, which I should thatched with leaves on the top, but ensay was not far from what is called a pic-tirely open in front. Solitary, damp, and kle, equal to 133 1-3 lbs. weight. The cheerless, as the temporary sheds appeared, king requires each man, woman and child we thought it expedient to make them our on the island, to furnish a pickle of sandal- lodgings for the night, as we could not prowood, whenever he has occasion for it in ceed, with safety, to the nearest settlethe purchase of vessels, or cargoes, ments on the other side, without day light; and the day was now too far spent to attempt it. Our attendants struck up a fire, and collected fuel to feed it. We dried part of our clothes. The rain abated. The thunder ceased. The stars appeared. By the light of our fire, we read a portion of Scripture, and united in offering our evening sacrifice to him, who had hitherto preserved us; and having spread down upon the damp leaves a large cloak, which served as a bed for three of us, we laid ourselves down to our slumbers, under the care of the Watchman of Israel. We had no fear of beasts of prey, or poisonous reptiles; of highway robbers, or hostile bands of savages; nor did the unusual degree of cold in the atmosphere, the uncomfortable

Aspect of the Country.

The land, as it rises several miles from the sea shore towards the forests, is not well watered, except in the narrow vallies, where the streams descend from the mountains, and where the principal productions are found; nor does it produce trees or shrubbery; and though generally covered with grass it appears like a barren waste. On the east side of Wimaah creek, several thousand acres have, this summer, been overrun with fire, divesting it of the little verdure, which had appeared in the old grass. The face of the country exhibits marks of former earthquakes and volcanic

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