THE WATERING-PLACES OF GERMANY.

"Sie fanden sich

In einer neuen Welt, die Ihnen huldight,

Wärs auch durch Neuheit nur, Ihr Auge reizt."

SCHILLER.

If a stranger, traveling in Germany during the summer months, have a curiosity to see "life," or mingle at all in society, he must not expect to find it in the capitals. There, indeed, he will see the palaces, cathedrals, picture galleries, and lions in general. This accomplished, let him follow the stream, which at this season sets strongly in but one direction to the watering-places. Here he will find not only every class in society, but almost every nation in Europe, fully represented; in fact, a sort of fashionable congress of nations.

We

One pleasant morning, in the month of August, I found myself with a party of friends at Wiesbaden, the Saratoga of Germany. It is the capital of the Duchy of Nassau, and about an hour's pleasant ride from the banks of the Rhine. After securing lodgings opposite one of the promenades, we had just time to join the solemn procession which was moving to the hotels in quest of dinner. It was not a little amusing to a foreigner, to see with what characteristic gravity and deliberation these Germans proceeded on their way, when one considered the enormous quantity of provisions they were about to consume. entered, with the rest, a large hall, whose walls were handsomely painted in fresco, while in an orchestra at the farther end, was a band of musicians. When the two or three hundred guests had taken their seats, flower girls went around the tables and distributed bouquets. The dinner was served in courses without number. A bottle of Rhine wine was placed by every plate, and this, when mixed with effervescing Seltzer water, seemed to be the favorite beverage. There was no greediness, no impatience, no "bolting" of food, but every thing was done leisurely, and the intervals were relieved by animated conversation. So well trained are the German attendants, that no one thinks of calling out "Kellner." After an hour and a half had elapsed, the company retired, with countenances expressive of the most perfect satisfaction.

After dinner we sauntered to the Kursaal, a building common to all the German watering-places, somewhat like the English pump-room. It is a huge edifice, occupying one side of a square, while two other sides are covered colonnades, lined with gay shops, forming a sort of bazaar, and an agreeable promenade in rainy weather. It serves the fourfold purpose of banquet, ball, assembly, and gaming room. Numerous visitors were promenading in the great saloon, while at the gaming tables in the side apartments, play was commencing. After stopping awhile to admire the paintings, statuary, and decorations of the walls, we stepped into the gardens at the rear, where a gay spectacle met the eye. On a spacious lawn, shaded with trees, and ornamented with

shrubbery, three or four thousand people were seated in groups at separate tables, with coffee or ices, chattering away in half the tongues under heaven, and gesturing like pantomimes. It seemed like an animated tableau vivant. An artificial lake, on whose surface stately swans and various aquatic fowl disported themselves, added to the quiet beauty of the scene. At a little distance, in a temple tastefully decorated, and half concealed by vines, a band of musicians were playing, as Germans only can, the witching airs of their native land.

Returning to our lodgings, we watched the different equipages as they rolled by. Now came the lumbering carriage of some Russian prince, his face half buried in whisker and moustache, regarding the people through his eye-glass with a somewhat contemptuous glance; then the plain, well-appointed chariot of an English gentleman; then a party of English equestrians dashed by on high-bred, prancing horses. On the shady promenade before us, a French party might be distinguished from the rest of the company, the ladies conspicuous by their Parisian dress and vivacity of manner, while their gallants wore an air of easy nonchalance and gayety, perfectly characteristic. Here a staid German was slowly moving on with his good Frau and demure little Fraulein, smiling benignantly, and taking off his hat to every acquaintance. Under the trees sat an old patriarch, one in humble life, surrounded by a family group, the women in high snow-white linen caps, gaily trimmed with ribbons, knitting and gossiping with some young soldiers, and the grandchildren of the old man climbing upon his knee, or playing at his feet. Every one seemed to be out of doors, enjoying the summer afternoon, the men smoking in the porches, and their wives beside them with their ever-busy needles. Presently, the word was given, "the Duke is coming," and as the young sovereign passed by in an open carriage and four, every head was for a moment uncovered.

In the evening, after supper-for tea is unknown-we again visited the saloon, now brilliantly illuminated and filled with well-dressed company. The gaming tables were surrounded by men old and young, and even by some who appeared to be ladies, all looking anxious and completely absorbed. These establishments are all licensed by government, and "farmed" by a certain wealthy French proprietor. Roulette and rouge et noir, are the favorite games. This passion for gambling has ever characterized the Germans. It was remarked by Tacitus,* in the time of the Roman emperors. The government having vainly attempted to suppress the practice, license it, exacting, however, a heavy tax, which is applied to charitable purposes.

Next morning, at an early hour, we repaired to the pavilion, which covers the Kochbrunnen, (boiling spring.) A number of fat, quietlooking Germans were already on the ground, walking slowly up and

* De Moribus Germanaie, Sec. XXIV. "Aleam, (quod mirêre,) sobrii inter seria exercent, tantâ lucrandi perdendive temeritate, ut, cùm omnia defecerunt, extremo ac novissimo jactu de libertate et de corpore contendant."

down a covered alley, and, with looks of resignation, gravely sipping from their beautifully colored cups of Bohemian glass the hot spring water. This has a temperature of 150° Fah., and is flavored very much like chicken broth. Having breakfasted, we consulted our obliging host whether to visit the ducal villa and park, a few miles distant, or the famous springs of Schwalbach and Schlangenbad. The latter was decided upon, as the route lay over the Taunus mountains, so, without delay, we engaged a carriage and postillion, at whose grotesque figure we could scarce restrain our laughter. A sort of decapitated, not to say dilapidated, hat, a coat, which would have been a roundabout, but for two horrid little tails just sprouting out from behind, and yellow knee-breeches of buckskin, with high boots, large enough for his grandfather, completed the costume of a youth, who seemed not a bad imitation of the fat boy in Pickwick. How he managed to get into the saddle is best known to himself, but once seated, he could not be easily dislodged; and confident in his powers, he started off with a blast of his trumpet that aroused the neighborhood, and a vigorous cracking of the whip that lasted till we had left Wiesbaden far in the distance. After two or three hours of tedious ascent, we reached a point whence a magnificent view presented itself. The whole Duchy of Nassau lay beneath, like one great park, its boundary the Rhine, winding its silvery way between frowning hills, and Mayence on the opposite bank, conspicuous with its lofty towers and cathedral spires, while through an atmosphere transparent as ether, distant cities might be discerned everywhere dotting the horizon.

Descending from this eminence into a deep valley, a sudden turn of the road surprised us with a view of the village of Schwalbach-a secluded and delightful little spot,

"Where scarce a sunbeam wanders thro' the gloom,"

known only to the lovers of nature, or invalids in search of health. One of the springs here has the spirit and flavor of champagne; others are strongly impregnated with iron, so that, after immersing the head, one's pillow looks as if a rusty shell had been reposing on it. An hour or two more brought us over another ridge of the mountain into a second valley, to which the euphonious name "Schlangenbad," has been applied. The water of this Spa is very celebrated for its peculiar properties. It is about as warm as new milk, but much softer, and almost oily to the touch. The effect upon the skin is to whiten it, and – impart a softness and brilliancy like that of polished marble, sufficient to justify the remark of a short, fat Frenchman to his friend, while recommending these waters, "Monsieur, dans ces bains on devient absolument amoureux de soi-meme." The water is sent in stone bottles, as a cosmetic, as far as St. Petersburgh, and ladies modestly approach it from the most distant parts of Europe.

In the shady terrace which adjoins the bath-house, we found the ladies sitting in groups at their little tables, with the usual accompaniments, a cup of coffee and their knitting, before them. The gentlemen,

in caps and dressing gowns, stationed at a respectful distance, half concealed themselves in the huge clouds of smoke which issued from their meerchaums. Smoking is a part of the German's nature, as indispensable to him as breathing to other mortals. We once observed a student, in one of the Rhine steamers, smoking continuously for six or eight hours. Such a fellow ought to be extinguished, like Raleigh, with a pail of water. Perhaps he intended, at some future day, to blaze forth, like the sun from a fog, as Horace describes the poet of old"Ex fumo dare lucem

Cogitat."

Speaking of smoking naturally leads us to consider some other characteristics of student life in Germany. It is an error to suppose that the mass of students are wild and disorderly in their habits. The majority of them are hard-working men, and true to their own interests. The government have a strong hold upon them, since, to obtain any official post, they must not only pass an honorable examination at the University, but also a special one before receiving the appointment. A certain portion, however, among whom the foreign students are conspicuous, take the liberty of acting as they please, avoid behaving or appearing in any way like other people, and, consequently, a more odd, queer, and outlandish set of characters can nowhere be found.

Smoking, beer-drinking, and duelling are their preparatory studies before entering on the business of life. First of all, every man has a pipe at least a yard long, and must consume, in the course of the year, more tobacco than he is worth. Then, if his capacity allow him to drink thirty or forty tumblers of beer at one sitting, it proves him a man of spirit, and continent withal. But especially, if he take care to insult every little fellow he meets, and fight him next day—then, indeed, in the eyes both of friends and enemies, he is past improvement, and is often graduated prematurely in consequence. Let not the reader fancy that there is any danger in this amusement. In such a case, a man would be a fool to fight. They take the precaution, therefore, to pad and wad the person, as effectually as though they were sewed up in feather beds; and thus accoutred, they cut and thrust most terribly at the wadding till a flesh wound draws a little blood. Then, rushing into each other's arms, they call for pipes and beer. It is a great point to wound an antagonist in the face, and spoil his beauty, but so few of them have any beauty to spoil, that little harm is done in this way. Formerly, their dogs were allowed to be present as spectators, on the ground of fellow feeling; but, on one occasion, an animal of otherwise irreproachable character, seeing his master cut off his enemy's nose, sprang forward and snapped it up in a twinkling. This lamentable accident caused the privileges of these animals to be curtailed. The English or American students, when challenged, demand the pistol, and as the padding is not bullet proof, the affair is pretty certain to be amicably adjusted. The dress of this independent order of odd fellows is perfectly characteristic. With huge rolling collars, hair worn over the shoulders, à la Raphael, ridiculously small scull-caps, coats of indescribable cut, jack boots, with immense spurs, they parade the

streets, accompanied by dogs queer as themselves, with arms round each other's neck, the wonder of little boys, and the terror of all respectable citizens.

But, to return to the quiet valley of Schlangenbad. The band had seated themselves in the little orchestra, in the open air, and were regaling our ears with harmony, which echoed most delightfully among the hills, and reminded us of the evening parade at West Point, when the notes of martial music, on a calm summer evening, are reflected from its rocky amphitheatre. With the sounds still ringing in our ears, we climbed to one of the nearest hill-tops, where, in a romantic spot, on a little bit of table land, overlooking the landscape and the village below, there is a seat, with a table of stone, and near them a simple column, ornamented with a beautiful device, erected by a Dutch nobleman and his lady, to commemorate their delightful honeymoon passed in this quiet retreat, "En reconnoisance des delicieuses saisons passées ici ensemble par."-One would hardly have accused a Hollander of possessing so much sentiment.

We returned to Wiesbaden as to a home. With friends, in such a place, there is no ennui, so pleasing and novel are the various scenes and amusements. Balls in the saloon once or twice a week, with music, gay company, and fireworks in the gardens, enlivened the evenings. The Germans are not so graceful as the French, especially in the quadrille and gallopade; but in the waltz, which, like the Polka, is a national dance, introduced by themselves, they appear to better advantage. It is singular that while no one objects to the freedom of the waltz, etiquette strictly prohibits ladies and gentlemen from walking armin-arm, unless betrothed. The German ladies have very fair complexions and perfectly Saxon faces, which, to our taste, is the highest style of beauty. Their manners are unaffected and agreeable; they are well read, versed in the modern languages, and like Madame Roland, not only skilled in the higher accomplishments, but in the arts of domestic life. The late Empress of Austria is said to have prepared daily, with her own hands, the coffee for her husband's breakfast.

While the gentler sex are educated in this way, it is not to be wondered at, that society, in this country, unites in itself so many charms, charms too potent for the heart even of an old bachelor to resist. Perhaps nowhere else is the tender passion so intense and absorbing. It not unfrequently occasions insanity. Neither time nor absence can diminish the deep and lasting attachments of early youth.

Not long since, a young German, who had left his fatherland some years before, took passage at Cincinnati in one of the steamers bound for New Orleans. At one of the stopping-places on the river, a party of his countrymen came on board with their families. Among them he saw his early love, whom he had left at home and had never since heard from. She recognized him at the same moment, and with an exclamation of joy they rushed into each other's arms. We will not attempt to describe the scene which followed; it is enough for the reader to know, that before the boat reached its destination, the happy pair were united in the holy bands of matrimony.