or social entertainments. A short time ago, it was the custom for members of the diplomatic corps, government officers, and other officials, lawyers, &c., to go in the uniform of their rank or guilds, to wait on their superior, and offer the compliments of a new year. Old customs are dying out with amazing rapidity everywhere; and even here, only a few out-of-the-world folks, who move in the past more than in the present, keep up this oldfashioned custom, and present themselves, duly equipped, on the 1st of January, at the houses of their chiefs; but now they are laughed at for their pains. Still every one goes to call on every one on New Year's-day. The crossings and recrossings must be numerous; and as-independently of the fact, that if every one is out, no one can be at home-morning visitors are rarely received in a capital where every winter evening is spent in balls or receptions, I should think the number of cards exchanged on New Year's-day in Sweden must come to a curious amount.

Whatever old customs may die out, one, of a rather singular nature, still gives a sort of eclat to this day in Stockholm; it is that of the Exchange Ball-an annual festival for the King and Royal Family, given by the burghers or Corporation of Stockholm

to their Majesties. To this ball they are invited by the townspeople, and to it all who are able to pay one rixdaler, or one shilling and twopence, English money, are at liberty to go, provided only that they are not exactly outcasts from decent society. As I naturally felt desirous to share the honour, or curious to see the sight, I very willingly paid my rix-daler, and attired myself in my best black dress. Only black and white are permitted where their Majesties are present; and if the two state colours were worn on the same person, the magpie aspect of a court ball-room would be complete; but this is not so. A white dress says you are young, or wish to dance-a black, that you are old, or not a dancer. I took the black; the two fair Swedes I chaperoned took white; and we set off together to the Stockholm Exchange.

Now as it is no trifling honour to be for once in one's life in society with Royalty, to see the King's sons dance, and even to have a chance of dancing with them, you may fancy what a gathering there was in the great ball-room. For my part, I had lived on hope almost all day, for that new year's day was a dreary one to me. Our highly-respected British Minister was the only

one of the foreign ministers absent from this curious assembly, for a domestic trial secluded him in the Embassy, which at other times was made the scene of hospitality and kindness. We left the house at six o'clock; the royal party were not expected till nine; but Swedish zeal in all cases of sight-seeing, especially in royal sights, is most enduring. The ball-room was more than half full when we got in. The ladies were all ranged in tiers, on benches placed round the walls of the room; the men stood in the centre. The separation both of sex and age is a general peculiarity of Swedish society; but in this case, the first part of the distinction only was preserved. Young and old ladies had to sit together; the men were obliged, whether they liked it or not, to stand grouped in a mass. As they always escape as soon as possible from the ladies' society, it was rather pleasant to feel that, for the sake of a seat, some of them would now be glad to come into it. But this was not allowed; and there we sat-awfully stupid, it must be confessed-for the space of nearly three hours of this mortal life. As the room filled, the confined and heated air became oppressive; my courage was giving way, when lo! at once I saw the throne,

beneath the crimson canopy exactly opposite to me, was filling. King Oscar was standing before it, with his amiable smile and bow; the graceful Queen, her sweet young daughter, and three sons, Gustaf, Oscar, and Auguste, and to crown all, the dashing and splendid Crown Prince, the eldest of the charming family, and his young Dutch wife, all were there. The King and Queen used to dance at this ball with their good townspeople, but they have now abdicated in favour of their children, whose duty this night was no very easy one. The royal chamberlains were immediately sent about with invitations. The Queen, the granddaughter of graceful Josephine, with a pretty movement of her hand, laid her royal commands on her youthful sons, who instantly rose with submissive alacrity, unbuckled their sword-belts, and descended the throne steps to receive the citizen-partners allotted to them. The two young princesses set off a waltz with two portly merchants, and the usual furious dance instantly began. Down the entire length of that long room, round the centre group of standers, and up again. A lady falls under their feet, but the eye cannot take in the prostrate form before it

sees it again circling away, half borne up in the strong arms that certainly must lighten the exertions of the fragile-looking creatures, who night after night, through the winter season, keep up this violent dancing. The black head of the handsome Crown-Prince looks soon as if he had come out of a vapour-bath, but he has only time to mop it up with a handkerchief, and set off in a whirl with a fat lady in black velvet. And his young wife, whose infant is little more than a month old, is dancing too, but more quietly, for her partner is a grave burgomaster. This ball, I suppose, is meant to be on the principle of liberty, equality, and fraternity; and, indeed, I suppose that principle is as much carried out at the ball of Stockholm as it is anywhere else. The humblest tradesman's wife or daughter says she has as good a chance of dancing with one of the Princes as any one else. So it may be, but somehow the chance does not come. "The eleven old men" of Stockholm-that is, I believe, the heads of the Corporation-settle all that.

After about two hours of most vehement exercise on the part of some of the assembly, of absolute stillness and wearisome dulness, as I