RANSOM OF CANTON.

149

At the same time the Hyacinth was employed in receiving the first instalment of the ransom, and the remainder of the ships in loading the junks with timber from the

naval arsenal.

On the 29th, the Modeste was warped to a berth abreast of the factories, and the Nimrod was engaged in hoisting in the second dividend. The troops passed the day in comparative ease, the officers taking rambles in the neighbourhood of their encampment; in one of which they visited Shoangshan-sze, or Double hill temple, the interior of which is thus described by an officer of the 37th:

"Some very extraordinary tombs and places of worship, or joss-houses, were seen. One very extensive line of buildings, close under the city wall, was solely devoted to the reception of the dead. They were in strong substantial coffins, elevated on pillars, with perfumed incense sticks burning on every side. The coffins were generally placed two in one vault; and with the exception of a close damp smell, there was no unpleasant

150

CHINESE SEPULCHRE.

The

sensation perceptible. Outside of the vaults. evergreens and creepers were tastefully arranged, and over the doors of some of them bee-hives were fixed. The coffins were of enormous thickness and strength. contents of a few of those that were opened presented an appearance almost natural. The bodies were all embalmed. They were buried in their clothes, the cap and button denoting in death, as in life, the rank of the wearer. The body in some of the coffins which were opened, must have been, from all appearance, an inhabitant of its narrow bed for upwards of half a century. The features presented a dried and shrivelled appearance; and there was a strong pungent aromatic smell perceptible on raising the lid. In the right hand of each was a fan; and in the left of many, a piece of paper, having Chinese characters written on it."

On the morning of the 30th, the general's attention was called to large masses of the enemy, who had collected in the rear of the encampment, principally armed with long spears, shields, and swords. Immediately

after breakfast the bugle at head-quarters sounded the assembly. It was taken up by all. Leaving Major-General Burrell in charge of the British position, with a sufficient force to repel any treacherous attack from the city, should it be attempted, the general advanced with the 26th regiment, which had joined the main body a day or two before, the 37th Madras native infantry, three companies of the 49th, and the Bengal volunteers, supported by the royal marines, and a battery of guns and rockets, to meet the enemy.

On descending the heights, they were found to occupy upwards of a mile of ground, and to be about five thousand strong. The 37th, who had proceeded a little to the left, surprised the advanced guard of the enemy, sitting quietly under a tree, sipping their tea; but no sooner did they catch a glimpse of the "black imps" than they scampered off in all directions leaving their arms, their cups, and their buckets of tea for their pursuers, who found it a very pleasant beverage in so hot a day.

VOL. II.

I

152

COUP DE SOLEIL.

The whole time the troops had been on the heights, the weather had been most unfavourable for active operations; but this day was peculiarly so, from the sultry and oppressive state of the atmosphere. Many men of this detachment had to return to their cantonments through illness. The quartermaster-general, Major Beecher, dropped dead from a coup de soleil.

The enemy had now been driven back about two miles, throwing away their spears, and flying, as the troops opened fire upon them; but finally drew up on some rising ground, evincing no disposition to make a further retrogade movement, but at this time showing no banners. The 49th regiment and Bengal volunteers were now ordered to fall back on the position, the general remaining with the residue of the detachment to watch the movements of the enemy, who, in two hours, increased to upwards of seven thousand men, displaying numerous banners and a few matchlocks. The Chinese now advancing in force, somet rockets were thrown, under the directions of

CHINESE IN FORCE.

153

Captain Knowles, with great precision, but appeared to have little effect in checking their progress, though ploughing lanes through their ranks. It was, therefore, necessary to disperse them, lest they should attack the camp in the night.

The heavy gathering of the clouds indicated an approaching storm. No time was, therefore, to be lost. At 1 P. M., the detachment was ordered to carry this resolution into effect, the 3rd company of the 37th, under the command of Lieutenant Hadfield, being dispatched by Captain Duff* to the left, to open his communication with the Cameronians, who were advancing on a large village, while the head quarter of the 37th proceeded to the right. On seeing this movement the Chinese retired, pursued by our troops for about three miles, when it was thought advisable to fall back. The threatened storm had burst, the thunder and lightning were awful in the extreme, while the rain poured down in torrents, preventing

* This officer subsequently died at Macao of brain fever contracted on the heights.