mony of blessing the lake, which the Vladika of Tchernegora, and the nominee of the Sultan, the Roman Catholic Bishop of Scutari, perform in person, each on his own side of the lake, and as a recompense, receive from the fishermen a tithe of whatever fish is taken!

Rizonica, better known as the Bocca di Cattaro, distant two days' ride from Scutari, is without exception the most important station on this side of the Adriatic. During our travels in these provinces, we had frequent occasions to admire the caprice nature displayed in the formation of the rocks in certain districts, presenting to the eye a not indifferent model of nearly every species of architecture. In the Bocca di Cattaro we have the singular spectacle of lines of docks, formed by the hand of nature. To understand this, we have only to imagine three vast basins running far into the land, and communicating with each other by narrow passages capable of being fortified. Entire fleets could find in these deep and capacious basins an anchorage sheltered from every wind, and secure from any enemy, however daring.

Impregnable as Cattaro may be from an attack by sca, to render its defences complete, the possessors of it should also have the command of the land side; for, being in great part surrounded by abrupt mountains, rising to levels, an attack by cannon from any of these might prove fatal to the safety of the shipping; and since several of these mountain levels are inhabited by the warlike tribes of Tchernegora, who claim Cattaro as their heritage, the possession is not of so much im

portance to Austria as it would be to Russia, who, from religion, and a similarity in language and race, the mountaineers regard as their natural friend and ally.*

The Bocca di Cattaro dates its origin from so early a period as that of the Illyrian Queen, Teuta, who, when driven from her States by the Macedonians, established herself here with a few followers, who became in process of time the most formidable pirates on the Adriatic. This drew down upon them the vengeance of the Carthagenians, who destroyed their ships, their towns, castles and villages. A position so admirably adapted either to the purposes of commerce or piracy, was not long deserted, for we find Cattaro, at the commencement of the eleventh century, a republic, under the protectorate of the Krals of Servia. After passing through various vicissitudes of adversity and prosperity -now threatened with the hostility of the neighbouring States for piracy, then repulsing the attacks of the Venetians and the Hungarians, the ruling stars of the day, and, at a later date, the Turks, under Barbarosawe find the little State accepting the protection of the Lion of St. Mark; to this alliance they remained faithful till the fall of Venice, when Cattaro shared the fate of

* During my subsequent tour in these provinces, in 1850, it was currently reported that Cattaro was to be transferred to Russia, in part payment for the assistance she had rendered to Austria in putting down the insurrection in Hungary; as may be supposed, the prospect of having so dangerous a neighbour caused no little disquietude to the Turkish authorities.

VOL. II.

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the other allies and provinces of that republic; it was subsequently transferred, by a decision of the Congress of Vienna, to Austria.

Owing to the strict blockade maintained by the Turkish cruisers, for the prevention of the introduction of arms and ammunition into Albania, I found it impossible to obtain a barque at any of the ports I visited, to convey me to the Ionian Isles; I was therefore obliged to return to Elbassan, and continue my route to Berat and Avlona. In every point of view, Albania, at this time, was anything but an agreeable séjour for a stranger; in addition to the rumours of revolutionary outbursts in certain districts of the mountains, I learned from all the Frank doctors I met with, that the cholera was everywhere making dreadful havoc, no doubt aggravated by the excited state of the people.

It appears that the Asiatic cholera first made its appearance in these provinces in 1830, when the mortality was fearful; it again showed itself in 1845, and each successive year up to 1850; but whether the virulence of the disease had exhausted itself, or that it was better understood, its attacks every year assumed a milder character. To counteract the effects of a malady which had already decimated the population, and threatened to continue its ravages, the Turkish Government so far awoke from its sluggishness as to invite medical men from Germany and Italy, and encouraged them to settle in the country by giving them high salaries, and securing to them all the rights and privileges usually accorded to

a Frank. Consequently, we now find in every large town a Frank doctor, with a dispensary for the relief of

the poor.

During my excursions, I always made it a point to visit these gentlemen, from whom I gleaned many particulars relative to Asiatic cholera, all of whom agreed as to its causes, and the classes of the population most subject to it. It first made its appearance in those parts of a town badly ventilated, in narrow streets, and covered bazaars, striking down the indigent, and then gradually spreading to every class of society, but showed itself less virulent where its effects were counteracted by cleanliness and better aired dwellings. In these provinces of European Turkey, where there is such a diversity of races and creeds, its effects were most remarkable, and equally disastrous-whether it was provoked by intemperance, or aggravated by previous abstinence; which proves that a temperate regimen is the surest preventive against an attack. On Fridays, the Sabbath of the Mussulman, when these people are accustomed to indulge in debauchery, a ten-fold number of cases invariably occurred; the Sabbath of the Jews, and the Sunday and other fete days of the Christians, when they assemble to drink and carouse, produced the same results. On the other hand, during the fasts of the Jews, the Ramadan of the Mahometans, and the long abstinence which the Greek Church imposes upon its followers, its effects were found to be equally fatal.

CHAPTER VII.

Journey to Berat-Turkish karaoul-Fortunate rencontreCrossing the mountains-Bivouac among the Zinzars—Their hospitality-Pope Michaeli-Desolate aspect of the countryFertility-Agriculture-Productions-Exports and imports— Austrian commerce-English Consuls-Plain of Berat-Town and fortress-Caraman Bey, the Governor-Preparations to repel an attack of the rebels-Alarming reports of the Albanian insurrection-Departure from Berat-Battle between the Nizam and the insurgents-Defeat of the Nizam-Fortunate escape.

On our route to Berat we again passed through Elbassan, and followed for some time the charming banks of the Scoumbi. After crossing the same singular old bridge with its twelve arches, to which we have before referred, we entered the gloomy defile of the Deole, with its torrent-like stream, now easy to ford, but highly dangerous when the waters are swollen. We were now in the country of the Toski tribes, whom Stefa stigmatized most unjustly as the most ferocious bandits in Albania; and with his usual timidity, deter