334 TOMB OF ÆSEYETES. The following table of distances may be of use to some future explorer of the Idean range:— From Busheeka Bay to Bournabashee, nearly E. 7 miles. Bournabashee to Æné, through the valley of the Mendris, S.E. . Ené to Biramitch, across the plain, E. 12 15 15 Total 49 In this excursion a small tent will be found useful, as it saves the traveller from the vermin of the khans. and enables him to choose his own halting ground. Mention having been made of the Tomb of Eseyetes. the largest and most conspicuous of the whole plain of Troy, it was Captain Napier's intention to have had it opened by his crew; arrangements had even taken place for having tents sent to the spot, but the unsettled state of affairs caused the undertaking to be delayed, and finally abandoned; and thus was unfortunately lost an opportunity, which may never again occur, of prosecuting some of the most interesting antiquarian researches. Leave the "Powerful"-Tenedos-The author de trop― Cafanet-Turkish coffee-On board the steamerLine of Austrian steam-ships-Steam-boat passengers-Sir Andrew Barnard-The leech tradeSmyrna-Variety of costume-Innovation-Beauties of Armenia-The khan-Slave market-Black cattle-Delicate attentions-Turkish academyJews and Jewesses of Smyrna-Their dress-In search of the synagogue-Travelling in the darkCountry residences of the Frankish merchantsServices of Lieut. Graves-Quarantine. "An adieu should in utterance die; ON the 21st of September, taking a final leave of the "Powerful," and of all my friends on board, I went to await at Tenedos the arrival of the Austrian steamer, which, on her way from Constantinople, stops there a few minutes to take in passengers. Tenedos, which, in the time of Homer, was peculiarly sacred to Apollo, "The source of light, whom Tenedos adores," could probably once boast of its temples and altars dedicated to the god of the "silver bow." At a later period, immense granaries were erected here by the Emperor Justinian, to receive the cargoes of vessels laden with corn for the supply of Constantinople, and which might be detained at the entrance of the Dardanelles by the then, as now, prevailing northerly winds; but, save one or two broken sarcophagi, not a trace remained of its ancient grandeur, and the dismantled and nearly deserted Turkish fort frowned over a scene of desolation and apparent barrenness. I say apparent, because the island, notwithstanding its present singularly parched up appearance, is celebrated in the Levant for the quality and abundance of the vintages, producing that well-known red wine which bears its name. As, waiting the arrival of the steamer, I MARRIAGE CEREMONY. 337 wandered up and down the nearly deserted streets of the little town, I suddenly came on a large assemblage of Greek women, collected before the door of one of the houses, the abode, -as I was informed,-of a damsel about to become a bride, and whom, on such occasions, it appears customary to parade about the town previous to the marriage ceremony, accompanied by all her female friends; herself and they in their best gala attire. I for some time followed the procession, but it being evident that I was considered "de trop," I took refuge in a cafanet," and, with a narghili and coffee, beguiled away the time; in this I was assisted by the musical propensity of mine host, a finelooking old Moslem, who, in the ancient garb of the faithful-the ample turban and flowing robes was amusing his audience with the monotonous sounds of a sort of guitar, which is known here by the name of a "sās." The "cafanet" is as much, or perhaps more, resorted to by the idlers in the Levant, than the "cabaret" in France, or the "café" in Spain. Here, for a few paras, stretched at his ease, or seated cross-legged on one of the raised platforms which surround the apartment, the 338 TURKISH COFFEE. Turk can enjoy those greatest luxuries of his existence the essence of the "berry,"* and the aroma of his chibouk; whilst for hours he will sit, the most contented of human beings, sipping the one, and inhaling the fumes of the other. Such were my occupations when warned of the arrival of the steamer; when hastening on board, we were soon under weigh, and gliding along the well-wooded and vine-clad shores of Asia Minor. We shortly lost sight of Alexandria Troas; old "Eski Stamboul," with its " palace of Priam," so conspicuous amidst the surrounding foliage of the Valonia oaks,—and, doubling Coffee, that "brew" for which the Turks are so celebrated, is made by them in the following simple manner:-A small vessel, containing about a wine-glass of water, is placed on the fire, and when boiling, a teaspoonful of ground coffee is put into it, stirred up, and it is suffered to boil and "bubble" a few seconds longer, when it is poured (grounds and all) into a cup about the size of an egg-shell, encased in gold or silver filigree work, to protect the finger from the heat; and the liquid, in its scalding, black, thick, and troubled state, is imbibed with the greatest relish. Like smoking, it must be quite an acquired taste, and the quaint remarks on the subject of old Spon and Wheeler are very amusing. |