214

PICTURE OF THE VIRGIN.

oak, and dedicated to the Santa Panagia, (Virgin Mary.) Her picture, together with that of St. George slaying the dragon-certainly not the production of Rubens-adorned the rude walls of the edifice. Before each, was burning a small lamp, with a plate containing, in paras, the pious offerings of their votaries. Though the sum thus exposed to any passerby was small, still it shewed a degree of security in the exercise of the Christian wor ship highly creditable to Turkish honesty and toleration. We took our departure, first leaving our mite to the tutelar deities of the spot, and shortly afterwards found ourselves on board, not sorry at coming to an anchor at the end of all our fatigues.

I frequently redeemed my promise of seeing my friend Khalil Beg, the governor of KoomKali, and at last prevailed on him to come and pay a visit to the "Powerful."

It was on a Sunday morning that, attended by a large retinue, we embarked in his caïque, on what, by the preparations he had made, he no doubt considered an important and rather hazardous expedition. Surely the good old

THE GOVERNOR AND SUITE.

215

ship "Argo," when she wafted Jason and his gallant crew past the identical spot where we now stood, was not more deeply laden than our frail caïque on the present occasion. First and foremost came his Excellency, in himself a tower of flesh; next, the sable Colonel, not many degrees lighter or smaller; then the two sons, the secretary, the interpreter, a serjeant, and a couple of soldiers, pipe-bearers, etc., made our number swell to upwards of twenty persons.

If to this be added carpets, mattresses, pipes, and narghilis, to say nothing of a lame gander and a jar of milk, intended as presents to the "capudan" of the "Powerful," the intelligent reader may easily conceive we had not much elbow-room. To add to the picturesque effect of the scene, the pretty Habi, melting in tears, came down to the beach to take a last farewell look at "Pa;" and the negro slave-girl who accompanied her, determined to share in the general lamentations, was twisting her ugly countenance into the most horrid contortions, but failed in squeezing out a single sympathizing drop. At last we

216

PARSON'S PARADE.

shoved off, and, with wind and current in our favour, soon rounded the Sigæan promontory, and in the course of little more than an hour found ourselves amid the floating castles and forestry of masts in Busheeka Bay.

When we came alongside, all hands had been piped up to attend "parson's parade." I explained to our guest that we were about to exercise the rites of our religion, and that, if he preferred it, he could wait in the cabin until the conclusion of the ceremony. His answer confirmed me in my then hastily formed opinion as to the tolerance of the Turks of the present day.

He said that our God was his, and that he should like to attend during the performance of the service;-when he and all his suite behaved very decorously, and, excepting the black Colonel, who fell asleep, appeared very much edified by the uncommon long and tough yarn spun on the occasion by the Rev. Octavius H. On its conclusion, he was taken round the ship, at all the arrangements of which he expressed the most unqualified admiration and astonishment.

When his curiosity had been satisfied, the Skipper had some refreshments put on the table: and it was amusing to see the crafty manner in which our Osmanli friends first watched our operations in the management of the knife and fork, and the readiness with which they fell into our customs. Our gravity was, however, on one occasion put to a severe test. In doing the honours, I placed some butter before his Excellency, who, after a short survey, suddenly seized a tablespoon, and, diving it into the vessel, brought the full contents of the rancid grease to his mouth. Our first impression was that he would spit out the unsavoury dose; but, far from it, he patted his protuberant stomach, exclaiming, "Eee!" (good;) "Chok Eee!" (very good); and deliberately repeated the operation, diluting the substance with copious draughts of rum, to which he appeared very partial, as he said the wine was poor sour stuff.

The remainder of the day was passed with his chibouk, and in roaming about the vessel. The Mids got the old fellow's sons and the se

218

EXCESSIVE POLITENESS.

cretary into the gun-room, and I suspect dosed them well with grog, as they shewed evident symptoms of unsteadiness when we sat down, a large party, to dinner-his Excellency and sons, the Bimbashee and secretary, constituting the Moslem part of the guests.

Particular directions were given not to have at table any part of the " unclean beast." Wine and spirits did not appear to trouble their consciences; and the number of healths in which they pledged us increased every moment their social feeling, till at last the unfortunate secretary, after being several times checked by his Chief and the black Colonel for his excessive politeness in this respect, was fairly put hors de combat, and carried off the field of battle.

The Skipper had given orders to have all the cushions and pillows which could be collected ranged in a circle in the after-cabin, to which we repaired at the conclusion of dinner, and with chibouks, narghilis, and coffee, had a regular divan, in which the absence of all ceremony was very observable.