QUEEN OF SPAIN'S CHAIR.

217

April 4th, Estepona.

Mr. Pedro, notwithstanding the rain, at last became so urgent for our departure, that about ten, boot and saddle was the order of the day. Lest we should give him the slip, and get into Gibraltar without discharging our debt, he had taken the precaution of providing himself with a horse and attendant, was not quite as drunk as usual, and looked quite grand and majestic. I took care to sling a bottle of rum to the saddle-bow, and during the day it proved of the greatest use, as we were drenched through a dozen times. We could see Gibraltar during the greater part of the day's march, which was principally through the hills, as we struck off from the sea-shore shortly after leaving Estepona, and great was our rejoicing when we got to the bottom of the hill, where is placed the Queen of Spain's chair, about four miles from the rock. This is a small round tower, on which is a seat, where it is said that, during one of the sieges, her Majesty placed herself, making a vow that she would

218

A SORRY PLIGHT.

not rise until she saw the English colours struck. However, as her stay began to be uncomfortably long, it is said that the English commandant (who had been made acquainted with the circumstance) was gallant enough to lower his colours for a few minutes, in order that she might escape with a clear conscience from her rash vow.

This was an unpropitious day for my charger, the pintado; he rolled down one hill, and just before reaching the neutral ground, got into a quick-sand, from which I had a great deal of difficulty in extricating him. Luckily for me, he floundered into it so violently that I was thrown over his head, and got off with being covered with dirt. However, both my friend and myself were (particularly after the repeated drenchings we had endured) anything but respectable figures to look at; and I much doubt if Don Quixote and his faithful squire ever returned from an expedition in a more sorry plight. I was mounted on the piebald, who began to be quite done up.

A BRILLIANT FIGURE.

219

My old regimental blue coat had lost a shoulder-strap during one of the falls on the march; my trowsers, which I had had the precaution of having strengthened with leather, so as scarcely to leave sight of the original cloth, were nearly shrunk up to my knees after becoming dry; the straps had given way, my boots were filled with water, and my goodly person covered with sand and mud, the fruits of the last misfortune.

My friend did not make a much more brilliant figure. He had on a broad-brimmed hat, which had been moistened into all manner of shapes; an old shooting-jacket, of Heaven knows what colour; his breeches were torn and ragged; he had a rusty spur on his larboard heel; round his loins was girded a belt, from which depended a sword in a marvellously foul scabbard, and he was perched on the top of a tall starved beast of a mule on a mountain of pack-saddle. To complete the picture, Mr. Pedro, who was now, thanks to the rum-bottle and an occasional halt at an

220

ANOTHER BACCHUS.

aguardiente shed, in a glorious state of elevation, bestrode his beast like another Bacchus, while his attendant, mounted behind him, was doing all in his power to keep him from falling off.

Under these circumstances, it is not astonishing that, on meeting near the gates with some of our brother officers, we were received with shouts. They turned back with us, and escorted us through the town, to the astonishment of the wondering inhabitants, till we reached our quarters, when thus ended our trip to Grenada.

66

CHAPTER XXIII.

Excursion to the Long Stables and Almoraïma—Armed party-Derivation of the appellation of "Long Stables," or "Venta del Agualcahijo”—The beach— Sandhills The one-legged beggar-Fishermen— Spanish race-course-Campamiento-The “Muchachos" at St. Roque-The English denominated "Johnnys"-Mr. Plantain-The Almendral-The 'Pinales," or Pine Wood-View from thence-The Chaparros, or Cork Wood-The "Sota" and Pass of Aberfoil-Richness of vegetation-Casual rencontres-The Venta del Agualcahijo-Its accommodation-The "Comedor"-Juana, the acting hostlerThe "Ama"-Preparation for the feast-The Contrabandistas and game-keepers-Savoury dishesThe "Corso"-The Almoraima-The Padre-Accident-Return to Gibraltar-State of the weather.

Gibraltar, 11th May, 1838. I HAVE been taking lately a few excursions, as acting cicerone to a friend, who is on a visit to one of my brother officers, and an honorary member of our mess.