122

THE GIBERALFARO.

for more reflections than I have at present time to bestow on them.

Malaga, in the decline of the Roman empire, fell into the hands of the Goths, under Leovigild, who seized it in 571, and subsequently, in the eighth century, was one of the first places taken by the Arabs after their landing in the bay of Gibraltar. It fell, with the rest of Andalusia, into the power of the Spaniards, under Ferdinand and Isabella, but not without standing a long and severe siege.

Bent on exploring, I was up with the sun, and wended my way towards the Moorish castle, called the Alcazaba, which is at the bottom of the hill and fort termed the Giberalfaro, from the Arabic gebel, (a hill,) and the Greek pharos, (a lighthouse.)

The fortifications of the Giberalfaro are entirely Moorish, and now fast crumbling into ruins. As I had not a licencia (permit) from the governor, I was not allowed to enter the precincts; but, from the elevation I had attained, I got a beautiful view of the town and bay of Malaga, as they lay at my feet. The bay is rendered more secure by a mole,

BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT.

123

which extends to a considerable distance, and which is terminated by the faro, or lighthouse.

The town from the castle presents a beautiful appearance, particularly at this time of the year, when the brilliant green of the surrounding wheat-fields and orange-gardens contrasts strongly with the arid and steep hills forming the background of the picture. To the eastward, one part of the sierra was covered with snow, although, from the heat here, it would be scarcely thought possible to exist at a distance of not more than four or five leagues.

After breakfast, Pépé, who has attached himself to me as my cicerone, had horses ready for a visit to Cartama. On leaving the town, we crossed the Rio Medina at the ford, and proceeded through not a picturesque, but one of the richest countries I ever beheld, consisting of a continuation of plains, extending from the hills to the sea, covered with flourishing crops of wheat and beans, and, when any water presented itself, varied by rich pasture. Water is what constitutes the value of land here as in India.

For the want of this, ground, which might otherwise produce two or three crops in the year, remains idle from the time of the harvest until the following January or February, when it is tilled and sown. The road was good, but scarcely any dwellings were to be discerned for miles together. The peasants generally live in villages, and only visit their property during the sowing or harvest times. The only sign of habitation along the road was an occasional ventorillo, a small hut covered with reeds, and doing duty for an English public-house, in which the greatest extent of convenience or luxury to be procured is a glass of aguardiente, or sour wine. We crossed the beds of several torrents, which, although now nearly dry, must, during the rains, render this road almost impassable. The largest stream we traversed was near Cartama; it is called the Rio Malaga; and this we had to pass in a ferry. The road to Cartama is much frequented by peasants taking their oranges and other fruits to Malaga; and here I must remark on the courteous manners of the lower orders of Spaniards. The peasant never passes

MARBLE COLUMN.

125

you on the road without the common salutation of "Caballero, Dios vaya con usted;" which being literally translated, may run as— "Sir Knight, may God go with you!" Your reply is, "May you go with God!" This may mean, that you wish him in heaven, (or elsewhere,) as the case may be.

As you approach Cartama, on crossing the Rio Malaga, the road winds through magnificent olive-groves, on emerging from which, the first thing that meets the eye is a fine marble column, with a capital of Corinthian order; this, with sufficiently bad taste, has been surmounted with a wooden cross, by some one whose piety was stronger than his classic reminiscences. The remains of a Moorish castle on the steep hills to the left, together with a hermitage snugly nestled amidst olive-trees on their slope, are the most marked objects to attract the attention of the stranger entering Cartama.

126

CARTAMA.

CHAPTER XVI.

Cartama Hermitage of the Virgen de RemediosLegend of the Christian Knight-Moorish Castle and Roman remains-Ancient coins-Anasthasius Sawa-La Señora Melchiora de Perez-Shaking hands.

Malaga, March, 1838.

ON reaching Cartama, we proceeded direct to the "Senor Cura," or clergyman of the place, whom Pépé assured me was the most likely person to be acquainted with whatever the town held de "curioso;" and I found him a very intelligent and obliging person. He sent his nephew to accompany us, in the first instance, to the hermitage on the hill, and which goes by the name of that of the "Virgen de Remedios." This, like most Spanish chapels, was, of yore, the scene of some wonderful miracle, which gave rise to its foundation.