CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.

Dreams of Travel-First Impressions-Boatmen of Alexandria-The

Mysterious Figure-A real Soldier-The Egyptian Hosier-The

Camel at Home-Old Friends in a new Dress-The small Things of

Life-Hire of a Boat-Choice of Servants-Selim Hassan-A pro-

fessed Cook-A Consul's Dinner in jeopardy-The Caliph for a Day

Hajji-A Day's Shopping-The fleshless Arab-Cleopatra's Needle-

An Obelisk for Sydenham-The Pleasures of Slave-holding-Dreams

and Dreams

Page 1-25.

CHAPTER II.

Boat Life in Egypt-An Arabian December-Yusuf-Companions on

the Journey—The ‘Fortunata'—The Villages of the Delta—Visions

of the Past—Interrupted Reveries— Egyptian Law and Justice—The

Governor of Atfeh-The River Side-Everyday Life-The Sitteen-

A Nile Breeze-Ancient Sais-The Temple of Neith-Dogs and

ckals-Interior Arrangements-The Caliph in his Kitchen-Our

bins-The Sitt at Home-Dinner Time-The Slave of the Lamp-

The Libyan Desert-All hail, ye Pyramids !

26-48.

The Desert—The Spirit of Liberty-Boyhood's Dreams-Alone in

Arabia-Is the Frenchman in sight ?'-An Afternoon's Sporting-

Benisooef-The Moslem Sabbath-The Luxury of Egyptian Travel-

The Crocodile's Friend-Pilgrims from Mecca-The Bishop of

Gibraltar's Reis-An Amateur Sailor-The Dragomany of the East-

Thefts on the Nile- Westley Richards' at hand-The Disgrace of

Paying The Unlucky Money Jar

49-69.

CHAPTER IV.

The Village of Golosaneh-The Lentisch-Jebel El Dayr-An Egyp-

tian Monk-The Copt Convent-Abbas Pasha's Sugar Manufactory-

Ismael Bey's Farm-Bayadeh—A Picturesque Copt-Achmet Bey-

The Union Jack—A Night Watch-Turkeys for Christmas Day—

The Nile Landscape-The Fellaheen-Winter Clothing in Egypt-

Jebel Aboofayda-A Dangerous Passage-The Dahabeeh aground-

Selim aroused

70-89.

CHAPTER V.

...

An Egyptian Cemetery-A Party of Mourners-Grief but not Woe

-Ossioot-The 'Fortunata' again-The American's Boat-Selim's

Disappointment-The Plain of Abooteg-Infinite Variety-The Two

Cats in sight-Crocodiles and Pelicans-Jebel Sheikh Hereedeh-A

Squall-An Exciting Race-The Country of the Howara-The Dogs

of Girgeh-The Waste Lands of Egypt-Manufactures v. Agri-

culture-A Game of Rounders-Jellal-The People of Upper

Egypt

90-110.

CHAPTER VI.

New Year's Day-The Arab Boatman's Fireside-Crocodiles and their

Characteristics-A Dinner Party on the Nile-A Bill of Fare-Selim

and the Big Fish-Thebes-Important Missives-The Captain and

his Three Wives-A Reconciliation-Esneh-Sheikh Tombs-A

Scarabæus for a Penny-A Mutiny-Justice and Mercy-A New

Road to Sea Service-'No Baksheesh'-Peace Offerings and

Harmony

111-130.

The News of the Day-Perfect Freedom-Sulky Ali-The Concert-

Elephantina-Assouan-'Good Society,-The Shadow of Palms and

the Shadow of Death-The unlucky Dahabeeh-A busy Time.

CHAPTER VIII.

131-146.

The Pleasures of the Nile Voyage-Dissatisfied Travellers-Philo—The

Village of Morada-- A fine old Arab Gentleman-The Passage of the

Cataract-Jealous Boatmen-The Wreck of the 'Fortunata '-

Baksheesh and Sherry-Patience on an Island-The big Hole-

'Delicious words'-A Scene and a Success

CHAPTER IX.

147-165.

Phile the Beautiful-The Sacred Solitude-The unfortunate 'Fortu

nata'-Our Nubian Pilot-The Bab El Kalabshé-The Genii of

Enterprise-Nubia and the Nubians-Kirosko-Courageous Ladies

A Head Wind-The Country Girls-Traditional Hair-dressing-

Nubian Peasant Life-Selim and Ali-A Chance for the Bastinado-

Anad and Zeyd—An angry Joke-Sticks against Sticks-Penitent

Ali-Brecknockshire and Osiris-The Sheikh's Wheat-field-A Mid-

night Serenade The Two Cats again-The Sands of Lybia-Mystic

Moonlight-The Nile's Divinity

166-193.

...

CHAPTER X.

Shadows from Temple Walls-Philosophy and Religion-The One

God-A Partial Revelation-The Twofold Mind of Man-The Light

Obscured-Divinity in Animals-Fall from Wisdom-A Voice in

Egypt The Visible God-A Peculiar People ...

CHAPTER XI.

194-211.

The Second Cataract-Wady Halfah-Modesty in Nubia-Black v.

White-Christianity and Slavery-The 'Cambria's' Mario—The Fine

Gentleman-Officious Zeyd-Story-telling Djad-The 'Cambria's'

Transformation-Jebel Aboosir-Joys of the Nile Boat-Sorrow

everywhere at Home-The Goal-The Schools of Egypt-The Bible

and the Koran-The Down Voyage-Everything passes away but

God'

212-235.

X

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

The Sitt turned Doctor- Beautiful Medicine

Ophthalmia-Faras-

The Lotus and Acanthus-Human Mutability-The Colossi of Ep-

sambul-Fallen Greatness-The Heroes of Kalabshé-An Egyptian

Billingsgate The Great Khenna Question

236-250.

CHAPTER XIII.

...

The Conscription-Untilled Lands-Tafa-A Voice from Ali's Heart-

Ali's Sister-The Ruins of Dabod-The Deserted Village-The Bed

of Osiris-Descent of the Cataract-The Brave Sitt-An Exciting

Moment-Still Water-A Chorus of Victory

CHAPTER XIV.

251-267

News of the World-A Pirate Attacks the 'Antar' aground-Rules of

the Road-The Sitteen and the Race course-Ombus and Silsileh-

The Harmony of Abundance-The Siwah Country—A band of War-

riors-the Conscripts-The boatman's Sympathy-Fugitives-Rocks

ahead!-The 'Antar's' disgrace-The British Consul's Thunder.

CHAPTER XV.

268-287.

Thebes-Royal Procession-A Hymn-The real Antique-The Forest

of Pillars-The Sacred Hawk-Dust and Ashes-Begging-History

and Enthusiasm-The Colossi of the Plain

CHAPTER XVI.

288-303.

Dendera-The Grottos of Kasr-el-Said-The Gold Mine of Egypt-

From Bellianeh to Abydus-From Abraham until Now-A Copt

Convent-The Priests and the People-The Heart's Religion.

CHAPTER XVII.

304-311.

The Power of Coffee-The Night Pull-Grand Cairo-Friends in

Boats The Floating Harem-'Not much looking'

CHAPTER XVIII.

...

312-321.

Abbas Pasha-His Character-His Political Economy-Mehemet Ali-

Egyptian Admiration of Strength--The Right Man at the Right

Time-The Indian Transit-Mr. Shepherd's Story-The Old College

-The Pyramids-The Delta and the Desert-The Cambria' alone

again
322-334.

THE WANDERER IN ARABIA.

CHAPTER I.

Dreams of Travel-First Impressions-Boatmen of Alexandria-The Mysterious Figure-A real Soldier-The Egyptian Hosier-The Camel at Home-Old Friends in a new Dress-The small Things of Life-Hire of a Boat-Choice of Servants-Selim Hassan--A professed Cook-A Consul's Dinner in jeopardy-The Caliph for a Day Hajji—A Day's Shopping-The fleshless Arab-Cleopatra's NeedleAn Obelisk for Sydenham-The Pleasures of Slave-holding-Dreams and Dreams.

It is pleasant to dream a dream of travel; but how much more is it pleasant to plan an actual plan, and, lying on your bed, to lay out an expedition to some distant shore, and to realise the possibility of accomplishing some old and dreamy scheme of a walk among storied people in legend-teeming lands. And then, how exciting is the active preparation

VOL. I.

B