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most exhilarating, notwithstanding the sometimes biting wind or blinding chasse neige. The ordinary Russian sledge, smaller than the American cutter, barely holds two, but the thick fur rug, even in a common drosky,' ," or cab, is so well fastened down that you are quite protected from the cold. The troikas, wide sledges with three horses, of which the centre one trots while the other two gallop, have become rather obsolete, and are used principally for travelling, or for expeditions in the country. Nothing is prettier than a really smart sledge with two horses, one trotting, the other galloping, covered with a large net of dark blue cord fastened to the front of the sledge, to keep the snow from being kicked into the faces of the occupants. The coachman, with his fur-lined coat gathered in at the waist, and his bright red or blue velvet octagonshaped cap, with gold braid, drives with his arms extended in order to preserve circulation. He hardly ever uses his whip, which is short and thick, and is kept carefully hidden. A footman stands on a small step behind, his tall hat and ordinary great-coat looking a little incongruous, I confess, and marring an otherwise picturesque sight. The horses are so beautifully broken that a word will stop them. The whole time that I was in Russia I never saw a horse ill-used. No need for a 66 Society for the Protection of Animals" there! "Isvoshnik," who owns his cab horse, looks upon him as his friend, and very often shares the animal's stall at night.

The

The town has a thoroughly modern appearance, but little would one dream when looking at those houses, of rather mean exterior, with their small double windows and tiny doors, of the splendors within. Space seems to be immaterial, and the size of everything strikes the English traveller doubly, accustomed as we are to London, with its narrow streets and considered inches. The French system of apartments is very common, although not so universal as in Paris; but where it exists, the entrance and staircases are much more decorated and cared for than is usual when several families live under the same roof, and give entirely the appearance of a private house. As in the East large numbers of servants are kept, and whole families of useless dependents live in the lower regions. I was told of a nobleman in whose

house upward of forty such persons, moujicks with their wives and children, were installed, besides the regular staff of servants. If this was the case in town, one can imagine what it must be in the country. Such generosity, combined with the utter absence of real supervision in the financial management of the establishment, must tax heavily the largest fortune, and it is no secret that many of the aristocracy are now greatly embarrassed.

The

All entertainments, whether public or private, are extremely well done. Russians, who dearly love light, make their houses on these occasions as bright as day, with a great profusion of candles; masses of flowers, notwithstanding their rarity in such a rigorous climate, decorate every available place, and the staircases are lined with footmen in gorgeous liveries. Although the houses are very smartly furnished with all that money can buy and modern art suggest, there is a lack of real refinement and true artistic taste, such as is seen in Paris; but, then, the French are born connoisseurs, and think of little else than artistic comfort; and certainly the average Russian drawing-room is superior to the ordinary English one. If there is a lack of imagination, there is an absence of tawdriness. People do not fly into the extreme, either of the aesthetic or Japanese craze, and if their rooms are fur. nished sometimes rather too sparsely and soberly for our taste, they have the advantage of being comfortable, and contrast favorably with the overcrowded modern English drawing-room. There is no danger when you move of knocking over several tables, or disturbing an elaborate and evilly balanced structure of paper fans, Liberty silks, and photographs, or of losing your way in a labyrinth of chairs and

screens.

Russian opinion asserts that all foreigners bring so much caloric with them that during the first year they do not feel the cold; this may be so, but there is no doubt as to our feeling the heat and stuffiness of the rooms, which dry up the skin and take away the appetite. The double windows and absence of draughts are a great boon, and would be most welcome in our breezy London houses. Of all the palaces I saw, the "Beloselski” seemed the finest. Built in the reign of the great Catherine, whose hand is found in everything of real taste in Russia, decorated and

furnished by the best French artists of the day, of whom this Empress was so generous a patron, with its lovely Bouchers and white carved panellings, it is a unique and fitting abode for the most charming and beautiful of Princesses, the Grand Duchess Serge.

Gatchina, the Windsor of Russia, is a curious mixture of splendor and unpretentiousness. The approach from the station, through a series of small parks, must be lovely in summer. I was surprised to see so few sentries about, and indeed, to all appearances, the Emperor is not more guarded than the Queen at Windsor. The entrance to Gatchina, on the public road, had but one sentry. Without architectural merits, its 700 rooms and endless corridors are filled with priceless Oriental china (cleverly arranged on the walls), tapestries, and art treasures. Coureurs in black and orange liveries, their caps adorned with tossing black, white, and orange feathers, give a slightly barbaric appearance to the scene, which is added to by the mass of bowing attendants, and by the two Nubians dressed in white, with turbans and cimeters, standing outside standing outside the Empress's audience room. While waiting to be received one is shown into an apartment fitted up in the style of forty years ago, with paintings of mediocre value. Further on there is a large hall worthy of an old English country house, full of comfortable armchairs and writing tables, games, and toys-I even spied a swing. In this hall their Majesties often dine, even when they have guests, and after dinner the table is removed, and they pass the remainder of the evening there. This seems strange when one thinks of the 700 rooms in the enormous building. But the Emperor and Empress elect to live with the greatest simplicity in the tiniest of rooms, which are rather at variance with the Emperor's towering frame and majestic bearing. His Majesty's manner is as simple as are his tastes, and, if rather shy, impresses one with a conviction of his honesty and earnestness.

There are some curious customs at the Russian Court which do not harmonize with the idea of a despotic and autocratic Sovereign. To see the Czar standing while supper is going on, talking, perhaps, to a young officer, who remains seated all the time, is startling. But tradition is everything in this country, and

as it was a habit of Peter the Great, who disliked ceremony of any kind, it is religiously kept.

The etiquette of the Russian Court is much less rigid in some respects than it is in England or in Germany. It is not the custom there to treat the members of the Imperial Family with so much deference as in other European Courts; no lady would think of courtesying to a young Grand Duke, and would only rise when the Empress did, or when the Emperor first entered a room. The ladies, when making their obeisance, bow as an officer might, which, with the present style of dress, is even more ungraceful than the English bob-our apology for a low courtesy. The men, on the other hand, are very deferential, particularly to ladies. At a dinner, when a guest is announced, the host rushes forward and kisses her hand proceeding to introduce all the men present. It is then your duty, if a stranger, to ask to be presented to every lady, and this entails calling on them all, personally, next day. Before dinner the party pass into another room, where, at a table covered with every imaginable hors d'œuvre and liqueur, they partake, standing, of the "Sacouska," as it is called-an excellent dish, but a dinner in itself. The same may be said of most Russian dishes, which are a little too substantial. Russians, as a rule, have enormous appetites, and are very fond of good living. In old-fashioned houses the guests, immediately after dinner, shake hands with the host and thank him for his hospitality. Most Russian ladies smoke cigarettes, in one of the drawing-rooms generally set apart for that purpose, causing a continual movement, which takes off the stiffness of a formal dinner party, and enables people to circulate more freely. This, in itself, would ensure a pleasant evening; for who has not seen with despair the only chair near triumphantly seized by a bore, whom nothing but the final good-night will move?

I cannot imagine that a Russian lady's life is conducive to health; little or no exercise, hot rooms and late hours, nothing in the shape of sport, are its main features; skating would hardly be appreciated, were it not for the present Empress, who is an adept at the art. How our usually disappointed skaters would envy them their smooth, large lakes and ice-hills! To go down one of these hills

on skates for the first time gives the same delightful feeling of satisfaction and pleasure which is experienced at getting safely over a big fence, leaving the field, perhaps, a bit behind. On the other hand, ladies in Russia have much time to educate themselves, to read, to cultivate the finer arts, and well they avail themselves of it. Speaking many languages, having read profusely, light in hand, they form the most charming society possible, and act as a tonic on a sluggish mind accustomed to the moral and physical fogs of London. They dress well, but affect the heavy richness of well-dressed Germans (if such can be found) rather than the graceful and airy nothings which make up a Frenchwoman's dress. Black is held in abhorrence at the Court, being considered ugly and unlucky, and any one venturing to wear it in the Royal presence is not only looked upon with disfavor, but is likely to hear of it. It is surprising, considering the monotony of the streets covered with snow, that the people should care to wear sombre colors. The cheery bit of red," so dear to the English heart, is rarely seen. It is said that Russians are not given to intimacy, and that the foreigner never gets to know them well. It may be so, but I see no reason to credit them with less warmth of heart and faculty for enduring friendships than other nations possess. How strange that Russian women, so eminently fitted by nature and education to influence and help those struggling in the higher vocations of life, should have, seemingly, but one ambition to efface themselves, to attract no attention, to arouse no jealousies. Yet I doubt not that their influence is felt, but it is not open and fearless as in America or England.

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es) in the observance of all the outward and visible signs of religion, perpetually crossing themselves and kissing the ground at every shrine, they do not seem to look upon their churches in the same light that we do. I was a little surprised to see the Governor-General of Moscow, the most courteous and polished of men, hold a species of levee in the Church of St. Sauvenr, on Christmas Day, immediately after Mass had been celebrated, and before the Metropolitan and the two Bishops officiating had left the altar.

It is an undisputed fact, I believe, that a succès d'estime is unknown in Russian society, and the stranger or diplomatist, however well recommended, or however good his position, is not by any means invited to their fêtes, as a matter of course. After the first introduction, he is only asked according to their appreciation of him. I am not speaking of official circles, where policy is the master of ceremonies. How unlike London, where every house is open to the distinguished foreigner, who finds himself invited, often when he does not know his host. Many people who have not come into contact with Russians imagine that they are rude and brusque. I may have been particularly fortunate in those whom I met, but I was struck with their polished and, at the same time, simple manner. moujick, who replenishes your fire, walks in on tiptoe, fearful of disturbing you, and shuts the door so gently that your heart is softened, and you forgive him his many shortcomings.

The very

One of the most interesting sights which I was fortunate enough to see was the New Year's reception at the Winter Palace. At 11 a.m. on that day the whole Court Politics or anything of that nature, attends, and society pays its respects to the whether internal or Continental, are not a Sovereign. The Emperor, dressed on this subject of conversation in Russia; reti- particular occasion in the uniform of the cence as regards public affairs is only equal-Gardes du Corps," gives his arm to the led by discretion as regards those of others. This apathy is not unnatural when one reflects that, with the exception of officials, no one is personally interested in the Government. The censorship of the Press, of which so much is heard, I have been told on good authority is only practically exercised on two subjects-any personal criticism of the Emperor or of the Imperial Family, or any attack on the Orthodox Church. Speaking of of the Church, it struck me that strict as the Russians are (particularly the lower class

Empress, and is followed by the Imperial Family. The train of each Grand Duchess is carried by four young officers, long files of ladies-in-waiting in green and gold, and maids of honor in red and gold, follow, and the procession ends with all the Court officials, who, resplendent in uniforms embroidered with gold, and covered with decorations, walk with measured steps through the long suite of rooms and galleries, lined on either side by officers in various uniforms, blue, white, and red. To these the Emperor says, in Russian, as

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passes, "Good morning, my children," they answering to the word of command, all together (a most cheering sound), cheering sound), "We are happy to salute you." The peasantry answer, I believe, Good morning, little father." In other rooms the ladies of society are assembled, dressed in the national costume, which is of every hue, and covered with jewels, splendid cabochon sapphires, and emeralds, all wearing the "kakoshnik," the most becoming of head-dresses-made of the finest stones, diamonds, pearls, etc., to the plainest velvet. The Empress, with her graceful figure and small head, looking very stately in her magnificent tiara, and blue velvet and ermine train, bows, the Emperor nods slightly, and the cortège passes into the chapel to hear Mass. This lasts an hour, every one remaining standing-an art, by the way, which Royalty alone seems to have the gift of practising without breaking down, or apparent effort.

I cannot adequately describe the scene in the chapel, which, if less perfect in detail, might have appeared somewhat theatrical. On the right all the ladies, kneeling or standing, form a mass of warm color, the soft red and green velvets of the ladies-in-waiting predominating, their long white tulle veils looking like aureoles around their heads, when touched here and there by the rays of sunshine struggling through the rich stained glass windows. On the left the men form a scarcely less brilliant group, the dark violet silk surplice of a Lutheran clergyman standing out in effective contrast to the vivid red of a cardinal close by. Suddenly the most divine music falls on one's ear, and not only changes the current of one's thoughts, but keeps one spellbound, longing for more. I can truly say I have never heard anything to equal this choir, which follows the Emperor wherever he travels in Russia. Composed of male voices alone, without the aid of any instrument (none being allowed in the Greek Church), it is perfection. The character of the music I found rather monotonous, and thought to myself how they would have rendered one of Mendelssohn's grand antheins. There is a story told of this celebrated choir. Dressed originally in funeral black, they offended the eyes of a maid of honor, a favorite of one of the Czars, who, remonstrating with her for not attending Mass, asked the reason. The

maid of honor pleaded that she was suffering from melancholy, and that the sight of the black choir would aggravate it. The next day her excuse was gone, for the choir appeared in crimson surplices braided with gold, and has continued to do so ever since.

Mass over in the chapel, the procession re-forms, a pause being made in the room reserved to the Ambassadors and Corps Diplomatique. The Emperor enters into conversation with a favored few, who improve the shining hour, as this is often the only occasion they have during the year of speaking to him, except at a few Court balls. The ladies pass before the Emperor and kiss hands, holding on to each other's train, a sight which is more quaint than imposing. When all is over a sitting luncheon is served, and home is reached about three o'clock.

For the tourist there is no comparison between St. Petersburg and Moscow; the latter is much more original and full of local color; but even to many who have not seen it, it is probably so familiar that description is unnecessary. No picture of Moscow can easily be too highly colored. Everything is a source of interest, from the narrow streets filled with a motley crowd of befurred people, the markets with their frozen fish, and carcasses of beasts standing in rows against the stalls, to the Kremlin, with its palaces and churches. "La ville des marchands," as they call it, is full of riches and rich people; one of the largest and finest of modern galleries is owned by a retired merchant. when the Court goes to Moscow, as it does every four or five years, families who bear the finest old names of the country, and who generally live buried in the provinces, make their appearance; people who look upon the society of St. Petersburg very much as the Faubourg St. Germain looked on the heterogeneous mass which composed the society in Paris under the Empire, and who are so Russian that even the Mazourka must not be danced too well, because it is Polish.

Yet

Many erroneous impressions prevail in England about the Russian upper classes. It is because we know so little of them. For my part I found them hospitable, courteous, highly educated, and, to all outward appearance, refined and kindly; if they have any of the faults attributed to them by their enemies, I can only say that I did not discover them.-New Review.

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