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CITY OF LYONS. II.

AMONG the public buildings of Lyons, the cathedral is the most remarkable. It is situated on the right bank of the Saône, and is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It has four towers, two of which flank the western front, and the other two, more massive, but shorter, form the transepts. They are terminated by a sort of balustrade, on which is laid a modern Italian tiled roof, a termination not at all in harmony with the character of the building. One of the largest bells in France is contained in one of the towers. The western front is the most recent part, not having been completed until the reign of Louis the Eleventh. It has three richly ornamented doorways, and over the central doorway a fine circular window. This part is profusely decorated with curious bas-reliefs and statues, but they have suffered much from the image-breakers of the sixteenth century. The cathedral most probably occupies the site of a large ancient Roman building, the ruins of which were employed in its construction, as well as in the erection of the Pont de Pierre, and of other edifices. At low water may be seen, about the piles of the bridge, large cornices and other ornaments of antique sculpture; and in some of the houses near the cathedral, there still exist large blocks of stone, such as the Romans commonly employed, as well as the remains of inscriptions and fragments of columns and pedestals. A street near the cathedral is called Rue Tramassac, a name said to have been derived from the words retro massum; that is, behind the mass of the temple.

The see of Lyons, the religious metropolis of the Gauls, ascends to the era of the primitive church, its founders having been St. Pothinus, an Asiatic Greek of the second century, and St. Irenæus. They were both disciples of the apostles, and suffered martyrdom here.

It appears that, so early as the seventh century, a church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, existed here. This church was several times destroyed and re-established. Under Charlemagne it was repaired, and three centuries after, it was constructed according to the present plan. The cloister was surrounded with thick walls and towers like a citadel.

The greater portion of the cathedral is of the age of St. Louis; but though Gothic, the attentive observer will remark some curious imitations of Roman ornaments, particularly in an incrusted band or frieze of red and white marble, composed of masques and foliage, copied from the antique with considerable exactness, running round the principal apse. The painted glass windows are remarkably fine. The centre tower. which opens into the cross, contains a rose window, which produces a peculiarly good effect. In a side aisle, on the floor, stands the once celebrated clock, constructed by Nicholas Lippius, of Basle, in 1598. It was augmented by Nourrisson, in 1660, and again by Charmy, in 1780. It contains a perpetual calendar, which indicates the century, the year, the day, the hour, the minute, and the second. Below is an astrolabe, which shows the course of the sun, and the phases of the moon. In the upper part are many figures, which move to the melody of one of the hymns peculiar to this cathedral. Some of the figures move at more distant intervals, so as to indicate all the saints' days in the calendar in succession. One of the dial-plates is of an oval form, the hand of which, marking minutes, becomes longer or shorter, according to its position within the oval.

The interior of the cathedral is described as being of a simple but striking architecture. "The clerestory presents an interesting series of windows, giving, in order, the gradations from plain lancets and circuits, without foliation, or even a containing arch, to the perfect mullioned window with flowing tracery-a good

lesson for the student."

In the fifteenth century, several chapels were added to the nave, the last and most beautiful of which is that built for Charles Cardinal de Bourbon, who was king of France for four hours. This Charles, duke de Vendôme, cardinal archbishop of Rouen, and legate of Avignon, was born in 1523, put upon the throne in 1589 by the Duc de Mayenne, and died in 1590. His brother, Pierre de Bourbon, son-in-law of Louis the Eleventh, finished this chapel, which is remarkable for its ornaments, consisting principally of flowers and foliage of the most delicate sculpture. Amongst them the thistle, or chardon, is multiplied; and is intended to form a pun or rebus in allusion to the cher-don which the king had made to Pierre in the gift of his daughter. This chapel was a few years ago restored and beautified. During the reparations the body of the Cardinal de Bourbon was discovered clad in his pontifical robes, and in a surprising state of preservation.

Before the Revolution, the cathedral enjoyed many high privileges. The chapter was composed of thirtytwo canons, who had the title of Counts of Lyons, with the decoration of a gold cross, suspended from the neck by a red band. The Dukes of Burgundy, of Berri, and of Savoy, the Dauphins, the Counts of Villars, and the Kings of France, were the senior canons: when any of these royal and noble personages were at Lyons, they wore the peculiar costume of the canons of this cathedral.

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The authority and supremacy of the Archbishop of Lyons, formerly extended over all the churches of the vast countries between the Alps and the Rhine. sees subsequently established at Treves, Arles, Narbonne, and Rouen, were submitted to his jurisdiction, whose primacy has been recognised in many councils, and the title of patriarch, which has long been claimed by him.

In the service of the cathedral many ancient usages are retained; amongst others, yellow or native wax is alone used for the tapers, and no instrumental music is allowed. The plain chanting is said to be as beautiful as it is remarkable.

Adjoining the cathedral is the ancient archiepiscopal palace, which seems to be of the ninth century. It contains some fine rooms, but little exterior beauty. According to popular tradition, Becket lodged here; but as it is not known with certainty that he visited Lyons, though Anselm did, the names of the two archbishops may have been easily confounded. Several anthems and hymns now sung in the cathedral, are said to have been composed and set to music by Becket.

The church of St. Irenée (Irenæus), is an uninteresting modern building, erected on the grave of that saint and martyr, and upon subterranean vaults, in which St. Polycarp preached at the age of eighty-six, and where, it is said, the early Christians met for prayer, and were afterwards massacred to the number, it is said, of nine thousand, by order of Septimius Severus, A.D. 202. In the midst of this crypt, which is an ancient Romanesque building, resting on plain columns, is a sort of well, down which the bodies were thrown, until it overflowed with their blood. A recess is now shown which is said to contain the bones of the martyrs.

One of the most curious antiquities of Lyons, is the church of Aynai, a name said to be derived from Athenas. It is situated a little out of the town, on the long point of land which divides the Saône from the Rhone. This remarkable monument, both of Pagan and Christian antiquity, has been thus described. The centre of the cross is supported by four ancient granite columns, supposed to have belonged to the altar erected at the confluence of the Rhone and the Saône, (which originally met close to this church,) in honour of Augustus, by the sixty nations of Gaul. In the representation of that altar existing on medals, there are only two, placed on either side of the altar, each supporting

a statue of Victory; but these lofty columns, each of a single shaft, having been cut in two, now form the four supports of somewhat low proportions to the central lanthorn. Each piece is about thirteen feet six inches high. The measurements of the diameter of the sections in each pair, show how they were joined. Their capitals, an imitation of the Corinthian, are mediæval. The original capitals were Ionic. The church, as a building, was in existence before the year 937. Its foundation, as a monastery, was much earlier, it having been assigned to St. Badoul in the fourth century. It was destroyed by the Saracens in the eighth, and the present edifice was begun in the tenth century. The

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outside is ornamented with a sort of mosaic of red brick, or tiles, inserted into a whitish stone. The western tower has a pyramidal roof, and a smaller quarter pyramid at each angle. Beneath the sacristy are the dungeons in which Pothinus and Blandina were immured previously to their martyrdom. The sufferings of these witnesses for the truth, rest upon a document of great authenticity, The Epistle of the Churches of Vienne and Lyons to the Brethren in Asia and Phrygia. Pothinus, chosen bishop of Lyons, and then ninety years of age, was sent back into this dungeon, where he expired after two days' confinement. For Blandina, who was a converted slave, greater tortures were reserved. After being scourged and exposed to the fire in an iron chair, she was exposed to the beasts in the amphitheatre. These events took place during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, the implacable enemy of Christianity, A.D. 177." These dungeons are situated below the bed of the adjoining river; they are most gloomy cells, without light or air; and the apertures by which they are entered, are so low, that they must be crept into upon hands and knees. They adjoin a crypt which, up to the time of the Revolution, was used as a chapel.

It has been already noticed that the ancient name of Aynai is Athenacum. It is generally supposed to have been built upon the site of the Athenæum, founded by Caligula, the buildings of which included the Augustan altar already noticed. "It was a school of debate and composition, in which pleaders competed for the prize. Great honours were bestowed upon the successful competitors; but those who failed were liable, according to the statutes of the imperial founder, to the most severe and humiliating punishments,-to be chastised with a ferula or thrown into the river, and to obliterate their own compositions by licking them out with the tongue; hence, even the most gifted, would approach the altar with trepidation."

There are other remarkable churches in Lyons which deserve the attention of the student. That of St. Nizier, built by a citizen of the name of Renouard, who began it in 1300, and finished it before 1315, is instanced as a splendid example of the flamboyant Gothic. The church of St. Pierre has a curious Carlovingian portal, in perfect preservation; and the church of the Cordeliers is spoken of as strikingly monastic.

The Hotel de Ville, or Town-hall, is perhaps the finest building in Lyons. It was erected from 1447 to 1455. Its lofty roofs and bold projections make it not unworthy of the ancient consulate, who, before the Revolution, were a most influential and useful magistracy. The Palais des Beaux Arts, or Museum, occupies the ancient convent of St. Pierre. It contains some very remarkable specimens of Roman antiquities; such as a taurobole or square altar, five feet high; the bronze tablets containing the speech made by Claudius, as already noticed in our former article; a very fine mosaic pavement representing the games of the circus, in which the spina and the gates whence the chariots started for the race are fully given, was found at Aynai, in the year 1800. Several other pavements were found, including one of Orpheus and the beasts, the colours of which are very brilliant; with many other sepulchral and other inscriptions.

The Hotel de Ville and the Museum are in the square called the Place des Terreaux. Here, in 1794,

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the guillotine was erected, and actively kept at work, and although the square became flooded with human blood, its operation was too slow for the Terrorist chiefs, who therefore resolved to mow down the wretched prisoners by musketry and grape shot. Nearly six thousand victims perished, including those who fell in the defence.

Lyons suffered horribly during the Revolution. The siege of Lyons was undertaken by the National Convention, to punish and bring back to their side the people of Lyons, who, irritated by the vexations and horror-stricken by the tyranny of the revolutionary club, had risen up in arms against them, and made prisoner, tried, and executed their president, the infamous Challier. Sixty thousand troops, with one hundred pieces of cannon, were collected against this devoted town, whose defence was intrusted to ten thousand of her citizens, under the command of Count de Précy. The wealthy merchants and land-owners devoted their fortunes to the cause; women and children caught the spirit of resistance, and cheerfully resolved to hold out to the last. After an heroic resistance of sixty-three days, during which they endured a shower of eleven thousand red-hot shot, and twenty-seven thousand shells; after all the surrounding heights had been gained by the enemy, and death and famine arrested the power of further resistance, the town was yielded on the 9th of October, 1793. The chief defenders had already quitted the place and retreated towards Savoy, but they were overtaken and cut to pieces, or dispersed by the hostile cavalry. About fifty, however, including the Count de Précy, escaped.

On the capitulation, it was decreed by the National Convention, in order to humble the pride of the Lyonnais, that their city should be destroyed. During five months, a fearful list of cruelties was perpetrated under the direction of Couthon, Collet d'Herbois, and Maignet. The demolition was carried on by a mob of discharged workmen, and others of the lowest classes. Lyons was reduced to a heap of ruins; the expense of merely pulling down amounted to 700,000l. sterling. The decree which thus doomed Lyons to destruction, also enacted, that a column should be erected on its ruins, to bear these words:

Lyons fit la Guerre à la Liberté,
Lyon n'est plus.

(Lyons made war against Liberty,
Lyons is no more.)

The Convention even gave a new name to the city, that of "Commune affranchie."

The consequence of these acts of barbarity on the commerce and manufactures of Lyons was most disastrous. In 1806, the number of inhabitants was estimated at less than ninety thousand, only half its population at the time of the fatal sicge. Of the public buildings that sustained damage from the bombardments, the Library is most to be regretted, its losses being in many cases irreparable to literature. The roof was beaten down, and large heaps of the books and MSS. were buried in the rubbish. During the reign of the Convention, many were carried to Paris, and others were stolen. The Library was turned into a barrack, and the National Guard lighted their fires, and boiled their coffee, with the volumes, which they preferred to any other combustible.

The Picture Gallery contains some good pictures by the old masters. A School of Design is established here, as well as an Academy of the Fine Arts. The Museum of Natural History is creditable by its extent, and most useful and instructive by its excellent systematic arrangement, according to orders, families, and genera. The charitable institutions of the city are numerous.

Silk is the staple manufacture of Lyons; and in the extent of it this city surpasses every other in Europe. In variety of design, in taste, in elegance of pattern, and

in certain colours, the manufacturers have a superiority over the English. They can work twenty-five per cent. cheaper, but the hand-loom weavers are nearly as badly off as those of Spitalfields. There are no large factories here; the master, instead of having a certain number of workmen constantly employed in his own premises, merely buys the raw material, and gives it out to be manufactured by the weavers, dyers, &c., at their own houses. The patterns are produced by draughtsmen, (generally a partner of the master manufacturer,) and the laying or preparing of the pattern is the province of another artist. Mr. Murray, in his excellent Handbook for Travellers in France, states that, thirtyone thousand silk looms are employed in Lyons. The silk weavers are bodily and physically an inferior race; half the young men of age for military service being exempted, owing to weakness or deformity.

The fortifications of Lyons consist of a number of detached forts, crowning the heights of St. Croix and Fournières on the right bank of the Saône, and of Croix Rousse above the suburb of that name, and the circuit is completed by seven other forts built round the faubourgs. They originated in the fearful insurrections of the workmen and others, which took place in July, 1831, and 1834, and are at least as much designed to repress intestinal revolt, as to withstand invasion from without. In 1834, the artisans formed unions for mutual protection, (as it is so fallaciously termed,) and called themselves Mutuallistes; a reduction of wages occasioned a general "strike;" several acts of disorder were committed, and some of the rioters were arrested. The determination of the authorities to bring these rioters to trial, led to an insurrection. The rioters fortified themselves with barricades, took possession of the suburbs, and the place was contested for two days. They had expelled the military, and it was necessary to raise an army to put them down. No less than two hundred of the military were killed, and a much larger number on the part of the insurgents. The part of the city chiefly occupied by these artisans, is the faubourg of La Croix Rousse, "a moral volcano teeming with turbulence and sedition." The principal fort has been so constructed that its guns entirely command this faubourg, and could, upon occasion, level it with the dust, while a fortified barrack separates it at will from the rest of the city.

THE ISOLA FARNESE is a most romantic rising ground with eliffs and streams round it, and presents to view a sweet quiet-looking hamlet, with an inn, and a fortress of the Middle Ages, now belonging to a princely family of Rome. The inhabitants are all shepherds and vine-dressers, and to us were very civil. About three weeks afterwards, forty of them were taken up as leagued banditti, and brought to Rome. The master of the inn was one of their leaders, and is said at times to have given his guests human flesh to eat,-detected by a young surgeon, who found a finger in his plate; and the landlord who came out to us at Fossa, was captain of the band. We thanked God for our safety, for it was late in the evening, and had they attacked us, we should have made but a poor defence. We might easily have fallen into their hands, for an accident happened to our carriage driving from Isola to the high road. We became separated from our party, and had far to walk, during which time we were met in a narrow lane by several mounted Contadini, covered with togas, and armed with long iron-shod poles, who stared at us with surprise. We did not, however, know our real danger, and only felt uncomfortable. They rarely touch the English, for three reasons: first, because they fight before they yield; secondly, they never carry money except on a journey; and, thirdly, the whole body make such a fuss, should one of their countrymen be injured, that it always threatens destruction to the bandits. Isola has formerly been a burying-ground, both Etruscan and Roman, but the tombs are all rifled. The rocks are perforated in every direction, and here may be seen columbarii and sepulchral chambers without number, and of every form.-MRS. GRAY's Sepulchres of Etruria.

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Sing on, thou sweet mavis, thy sang to the e'ening,
Thou'rt dear to the echoes of Calderwood glen.

THE song-thrush is one of our most melodious birds, and enlivens the woods with its rich and varied strains during the whole summer. It is one of the smallest of British thrushes, is indigenous to our country, and abundantly distributed throughout the kingdom. In Scotland it is called the mavis, and by this name it is frequently designated in poetry.

Hark, how the air rings!
'Tis the mavis sings;

And merrily, merrily sounds her voice,
Calling on valleys and hills to rejoice;
For winter is past,

And the stormy blast

Is hast'ning away to the northward at last.

Minstrelsy of the Woods. In placing the thrush among cage-birds, it is not intended to recommend its capture for this purpose. In the heart of cities, indeed, where the natural song of the bird can never be heard, perhaps it is excusable to deprive it of liberty, for the sake of the heart-cheering strains which, even in such situations, it pours forth to gladden the spirits of the pent-up throng; but in situations where its song may be heard from every copse and hedge-row during summer, it seems a gratuitous piece of cruelty to make it a prisoner.

ance.

This bird is so familiar in all parts of the country, that few persons can be unacquainted with its appearIt is about nine inches long, the stretch of the wings being thirteen or fourteen inches; the weight about three ounces. The whole of the upper part of the body is olive brown; the under part cream colour, darkest on the breast, and mottled with triangular dusky spots. The difference in appearance between the male and female bird is very slight, and not sufficient to strike but an experienced eye.

any

In Britain the song-thrush is a resident bird, merely coming nearer our dwellings, or removing from one district to another, in severe weather; but on the Continent it is much more migratory in its habits, and large flocks are seen assembling in autumn, preparatory to their departure for other regions. Europe presents particular attractions to this bird, for In summer, the north of there, a great portion of the surface, beyond the pine forests, is covered with extensive brakes of juniper, the berries of which are ripe in summer, as they come to their full size the preceding season, and have only to ripen during the last year they are on the bushes. These close bushes, protected by spines, afford a safe and conof a supply of food close at hand. venient nesting-place for thrushes, with the advantage When the snow arrives, which it does very suddenly, and in great quantity, the birds are driven southwards to more favourable climates. So abundant are these birds along the south

ern shores of the Baltic, that it has been stated that little short of two hundred thousand have been captured and sold for the table in the course of one season. When the journeys of these birds are very extensive, they only rear one brood in the year; but in England it is well known that they produce two, and in some cases three broods in the year.

The nest of the thrush is a compact structure, formed externally of moss and fibres, and strengthened by an internal plastering of mud. It is generally situated in the midst of a thick hedge or bush. The eggs vary in number from three to six, and are of a pale bluish-green colour, with small spots of rust colour and black. During the hatching of the young, the male bird is very attentive to his mate, and shares her assiduity in seeking food for their offspring. The social disposition of these birds is shown by their often choosing a place for their nest almost within sight of the windows of a country residence. Instances have indeed occurred of a still nearer approach. Dr. Stanley mentions that, a short time ago, in Scotland, some carpenters working in a shed adjacent to a dwelling house, observed a thrush flying in and out, which led them to seek out the cause. To their surprise they found a nest commenced amongst the teeth of a harrow, which, with other implements of husbandry, was placed upon the joists of the shed, just over their heads. The carpenters had arrived soon after six o'clock; and at seven, when they found the nest, it was in a state of forwardness, having been the morning's work of a pair of these indefatigable birds. They continued their work throughout the day, and when the workmen arrived on the following morning, they found the female seated in her half-finished nest, where she had laid one egg. When all the eggs were laid, the male bird took his share in hatching them, though he did not sit so long as the female. In thirteen days the young birds were out of their shells, which the old ones carried off. They then brought an abundant supply of snails to their young progeny, breaking the shells by a sharp knock on the tooth of the harrow, and catching the snail without ever letting it fall. Sometimes they brought worms, butterflies, and moths. As is usual with most birds, the old ones constantly carried off the excrement of the young ones, that it might not accumulate in the nest. As the family grew, and became more rapacious, the entrance and retreat of the old birds through the door was so rapid that it could scarcely be seen, but was only known by the sound, as they darted over the heads of

the men.

Thrushes feed chiefly on slugs, worms, and snails, of which latter, especially, they destroy such numbers, that they deserve to be held in especial esteem by gardeners, and to be forgiven, if, when there is a scarcity of this kind of diet, they make free with the lesser fruits of the garden. It is amusing to watch the proceedings of several of these birds, as they scour the new-mown lawn early in the morning in search of food. "Watch," says the writer above named, "an old thrush pounce down on a lawn moistened with dew or rain. At first he stands motionless, apparently thinking of nothing at all, his eye vacant, or with an unmeaning gaze. Suddenly he bends his ear on one side, makes a glancing sort of dart with his head and neck, gives, perhaps, one or two hops, and then stops, again listening attentively, and his eye glistening with attention and animation. His beak almost touches

the ground, he draws back his head as if to make a determined peck. Again he pauses, listens again, hops, perhaps, once or twice, scarcely moving his position, then is once more motionless as a stuffed bird. But he knows well what he is about. For, after another moment's pause, having ascertained that all is right, he pecks away with might and main, and soon draws out a large worm, which his fine sense of hearing had informed him was not far off, and which his hops and previous peckings had attracted to the surface, to escape the approach of what the poor worm thought might be his underground enemy, the mole."

But it is during winter, perhaps, that we have the

best opportunity of observing the destruction of snails effected by these birds. At that season, as it is well known, snails nestle by hundreds under hedges, and along the foundations of walls, especially in districts where vegetables are extensively cultivated. A sort of transparent curtain effectually excludes the air from the interior of the shell, and in this state snails lie dormant until the arrival of the spring. But the thrush and the blackbird, retreating from the more bleak and exposed districts, come down to the gardens and cultivated lands, and in open weather are very assiduous in their search after these dormant snails, which they destroy in great numbers, and thus do a most essential service to the early spring crops.

The following interesting fact, in reference to the thrush, is related by Mr. Knapp, in his Journal of a Naturalist:

We observed this summer two common thrushes frequenting the shrubs on the green in our garden. From the slenderness of their forms and the freshness of their plumage, we pronounced them to be birds of the preceding summer. called our attention to their actions. One of them seemed There was an association and friendship between them that ailing, or feeble from some bodily accident, for though it hopped about, yet it appeared unable to obtain sufficiency of food. Its companion, an active sprightly bird, would frequently bring it worms or bruised snails, when they mutually partook of the banquet; and the ailing bird would wait patiently, understand the actions, expect the assistance of the other, and advance from his asylum upon its approach. This procedure was continued for some days; but after a time we missed the fostered bird, which probably died, or by reason of its weakness met with some fatal accident.

The thrush is very early in song, commencing in favourable seasons towards the end of January, and as there are two or three broods in the year, the song continues till the beginning of October; or, at least, thrushes are always to be heard between these periods, though the same bird may be mute during a portion of the time.

The song of the thrush is a very delightful one, and is commenced earlier in the morning, and continued later in the evening, than that of most other birds. Neville Wood speaks of the song-thrush as a polite bird, beginning the affairs of the day with a "good morning," proclaimed in its loudest tone, and duly answered by its associates; and, late in the evening, sending forth farewell notes, and bidding "good night," as it were, to its companions. "When one individual shouts out this farewell from his airy bed, he is answered on all sides by a dozen of others, and then for a few minutes deep silence reigns in the woods, until, all vulgar songsters having ended their tales, the brake nightingale commences his.'

Another notice of the song of this bird, and of the utility of thrushes in destroying snails, the pests and enemies of our gardens, is too interesting to be omitted. It is by the eloquent author of The Feathered Tribes of the British Islands.

The song of the thrush is unquestionably the finest of clearness, though not in variety, to that of any of the warany of our permanent wood songs, and superior in power and blers. But the very abundance of it, perhaps, makes it less prized than it should be. The nightingale, heard in the the summer's night, may have more of the lusciousness of depths of groves, and during the soft and balmy stillness of feeling of rustic vigour, enjoyment, and endurance about the romance about it; but there is a bold, natural, and free thrush, which gives it a more home and hearty interest in all parts of the country, than can be possessed by any mere The thrush is especially one of the birds of plenty; its bird of passage, whatever may be its charms while it stays. blithe and varied song is never heard amid desolation; and if you hear a thrush, you have not very far to before come to a human dwelling. Where its animal food, which it at all times prefers to that which is vegetable, fails, the thrush may commit more devastations among the fruits than many other birds; but when the snail-shells by the hedge-side are counted, and it is gravely considered how

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