CHAP. III.

Arrival at Cadiz. French Army close by. A visit to the Town. The appearance of War, and rumours of it. The Natives, Anecdotes. Departure.

I TOO soon learned that in spite of my love for peace, I was fixed in the seat of war, as at Esla, not seven miles from Cadiz, a French army had taken up its abode. This I thought an interesting epoch of my life, for certainly I was not beyond the reach of danger; to wit, a bomb, or a shell would sometimes whiz over the bay, and fall upon the town, which in its besieged state, had its pavement taken up, and dust, ankle deep, laid plentifully about. Under all these circumstances, a curiosity so natural to woman, created in me a desire to visit that town. After the necessary forms had been observed, the gentlemen went on shore, and from them I learned that politics was the rage. The subjects of conversation were a promiscuous mixture, namely, Lord Wellington, Bonaparte, French Army in ambush, Spanish grandees fled

to Seville; Madrid and Cadiz nearly deserted; the English ships of war waiting a departing order, &c. &c. My patience! the confusion at the tower of Babel was nothing, comparatively speaking, to the wonderful wonders around me. Every visage that came on board looked mighty things. In the first few days' bustle I had not time to call my scattered thoughts home to judge of what was passing; but seeing so many English ships of all descriptions near me, lulled my fears.

We fixed a day for our party viewing this pretty looking place. On quitting the boat, and reaching firm ground, I had a most singular sensation natural to one who had been so long on board. Unfortunately we landed near the fish market, the effluvia of which was beyond all description. Near it were laying on the bare earth, several deplorable looking objects indeed; a fine opening scene, I thought. The houses fell far short of my expectations from viewing them in the Bay. In many of the better sort, I saw even in the front rooms, donkeys, pigs, mules, poultry, dogs and cats, and the people appeared quite at home with such associates.

The Bond Street is large and wide, the shops but thinly furnished, the goods not very clean, the doors spacious, at which hang long curtains, partially drawn aside, so that you might peep in without buying any thing. At many of them hung thick the lower ends of which were ropes,

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lighted pro bono publico. Here the sauntering smoker stops, lights his segar, and passes on, indulging in its fumes.

On passing one of the handsomest mansions, our attention was arrested by a singular sight; at an open window, through a balcony, we saw two lovely looking native ladies, who seemed earnestly engaged in (to me) a new pursuit. The head of one rested on the knees of her friend, who was carefully catching some vagrants that had taken possession of a most luxuriant crop of long hair! death followed in such rapid succession, that I concluded the intruders were incalculable. There was an air of style and rank about these females in spite of what ran in their heads. I had heard of such things, but there is nothing like occular demonstration.

I turned away from these pretty brunettes, and walked on moralizing. In the next street, I met a chariot, English builded, drawn by two half starved mules; the postilion reminded me of that grotesque character Grimaldi. Inside sat a fat Spanish Lady, a General's wife; in slow and solemn time, the vehicle moved on; close behind it followed an odd looking kind of phaeton, the mules and driver of which were similar to those before mentioned; in it sat what I supposed, an automaton, dressed in all the pomp of Spanish pride, headed by such a cocked hat as John Bull would stop to laugh at. with broad, dirty lace

The hands were covered ruffles, and a vast deal of

gold glittered on the dress. On drawing nearer, a phthisical cough announced a mortal's approach; next the eyes moved and a little face tried to assume a look of gallantry. "A Spanish Grandee!" cried some one; accordingly, the complimentary bows were received, and graciously answered by this Grandee. I think he most resembled an ancestor of the gay Lothario.

The churches were good but gaudily decorated, aud I thought surely pomp and ostentation ever will stare modesty and piety out of countenance. I saw some priests and confessors whose dresses were black and white cloths, with large loose sleeves, cloth hats to match their dresses, with crowns to fit the head; the brims immensely large, turned up before and behind, and wrapped over the crown. They are generally speaking, very handsome men, yet there is a roving vivacity in their eyes that ill accords with the sanctity of their dresses. As the day was warm, very few ladies were out; their costume is black, with black veils, and they wear neither hat nor cap. A high comb supports the veil, which is carelessly thrown over it; their carriage is very graceful, and their step short. The women are handsome, their eyes are dark and fine.

Fatigued with dust and heat, we gladly returned to our floating abode, where we had the comfort of inhaling the sea breezes. Several English merchants and navy officers visited us. After a few days a ship from England arrived with impor

tant information, in consequence of which all our ships of war were ordered to get under weigh immediately, as sixteen sail of the French were bending their course thither, and for a few hours the bay was in a bustle. At 7, P. M. every vessel under orders moved off in fine style. I sighed, adieu, ye brave tars! pride of my country, boast of the world, adieu!

The enemy at Esla began their firing and continued constantly towards evening. At night a brilliant display of falling sparks, produced a wonderful effect. Certainly, in one respect, I lamented the departure of our ships, as I did not like what I heard of the Spanish character; the faith of the higher people was not to be much relied upon; the poorer sort were aware of this, and grew dissatisfied. In consequence of a new Governor arriving from England, something like a rejoicing took place; the bells rang a jingle peal, and the guns were fired. I went again to Cadiz, and saw the Spanish theatre, which is indifferent; a French one is rather better. The opera-house, however, is tolerably good. It is the custom, when the dramatic performances are over, for the audience to promenade on the' allemaida till midnight.

A Don is fond of serenading the object of his adoration in the still hour of night, when, wrapping himself in his cloak, he takes his guitar, and bends his steps towards the window of his mistress. Then with the help of music he tells her o'er and o'er his heart's dearest secrets. Cupid, no doubt,