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thousand ounces for bribes. They speak of bribing judges and commissioners as if it were a thing of course, and greet the accused as if nothing had happened. Our late consul, Mr. Gibbs, was a man of great influence, and had more dependents than any private individual in the island. At one time he could command more money than the Sicilian government, and was in the habit of loaning it large sums. His affairs became unexpectedly embarrassed, and before any one had supposed him in failing circumstances, he put an end to his own life. Such a disgraceful catastrophe was not sufficient to obliterate the favorable impression which his numerous and extensive business transactions had produced. The Sicilians, the Americans, and the English, still speak in the highest terms of his talents and character. The English do not speak favorably of the Palermitan merchants, or the government. The foreigner above alluded to who has committed the fraud upon the custom-house, is said to combine the steadiness of an Englishman with the knavery of a Sicilian...

21. We spent the morning in visiting churches, and palaces, in company with an English gentleman, who has resided several years in this city. We commenced with the Cathedral, and spent as much time in this and other remarkable edifices, as our plan for the day would permit. I fear that I shall entirely fail, in an attempt to communicate any of the interest which is naturally felt in viewing these splendid temples. The cathedral, or mother church, is the most remarkable of these buildings, but its external appearance is so unlike any edifice known to you and myself, that I can recollect no comparison in America. The style of the architecture is irregular, be

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ing a mixture of the Grecian orders, and Saracen. The entire exterior is of hewn stone. The ornaments are minute, and the general outline so complicated, that it appears like a pile of small edifices.

On entering it we found the interior divided into three aisles, or more properly two aisles and a nave. The aisles are separated from the nave by columns which support the galleries. There are no pews or seats. The floor is of polished marble.

A second open space like the nave crosses the first, before it reaches the end of the church opposite to the door, and gives the area of the edifice the form of a latin cross; this is called the transept. At the extremity of the nave is the principal altar, elevated a few steps above the pavement, and ornamented with precious stones, columns of marble, and the richest furniture of the church. At each extremity of the transept are altars, less elevated and decorated with comparatively less magnificence, which are used on ordinary occasions. The high altar is reserved for occasions of ceremony. In some instances there are other altars by the side of the aisles; if in deep recesses, they are called chapels. Funeral monuments are placed in every part of the churches, except near the altars, where no sculpture is admitted, unless it be purely ornamental. The monuments of kings, princes, and patron saints, are placed in the cathedral, at the foot of the nave. The baptismal fount is also in this part of the church.

In every church we saw confessional chairs. They are made of wood, with high backs and sides, having ear holes where the confessor listens, while the penitent whispers his confession.

The doors of the church are open every day until evening, and people go in at all times to worship. After having touched the holy water and crossed themselves, they kneel in silence before the altars. There are no seats. I have not heard a sermon on any occasion, or any religious exercise except the mass. The churches are always neat, and perfumed with incense. No one enters without demonstrations of awe and respect, or presumes to interrupt the profound silence of the sanctuary. Even the Lazzaroni uncover and cross themselves at the threshold of the door.

There is a similarity in the design of all the churches. The less magnificent are copies of the greater churches, and very few are without some rich furniture or sculptured marble. The devout worshipper may forget, in the presence of elegance and magnificence, that he is himself poor, filthy, and miserable. Judging from the appearance of people in the churches, I should think them extremely devout.

22.-Palermo is one mile square, situated on a plain, and the streets intersect one another at right angles. The walls are thirty-five or forty feet in height, and firmly built. The four principal gates opening into the largest streets, are situated equidistant upon the four sides of the city. There are few buildings outside of the walls; of course the population, consisting of two hundred thousand souls, is crowded into a small compass. The streets are flagged, narrow, and without side walks. It is unnecessary to say that that every corner is full of people to overflowing. The lanes and narrow passages are seldom neat. Mechanics, with a few exceptions, are classed, and each trade located in a particular section of the city. In one

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place blacksmiths occupy every building on each side of exclude every other

the way; in another workers in wood,

trade. Stone-cutters, sculptors and jewellers are thus arranged, to the great convenience of those who purchase manufactured articles, and the good order and neatness of the city.

In the markets a want of cleanliness is universal. Meat is usually sold by persons who carry quarters or sides upon their shoulders, in many instances hanging to the ground and dangling in the mud. LegenȚ ad >0

New bread is piled in heaps upon the flag stones, which having been overflowed in the morning, are covered with filth.

Mud, cast away vegetables, fragments of fish, and oth er unclean things, accumulate under foot, making the most unseemly combination imaginable.96

We have always observed a variety of fish in the mars kets, an abundance of eggs; fresh butter, though not in plenty, artichokes, cauliflowers, and other vegetables. The meats are poor, but abundant; wild game plenty, cheap and excellent. We have lately seen green pease, though they are scarce. 15094 otoit eslim

At this season the fruits are, apples, grapes, figs, priek ly pears, pomegranates and strawberries. Oranges are not yet ripe, though we have seen them in the market within a few days. Grapes and figs have been long kept and are therefore scarce and dear. 2 gakovon de911

Hearing by accident of an English brig in the harbor bound directly to Catania, I have concluded to avail myself of the opportunity which it affords of visiting that part of Sicily. On my return perhaps I shall again resume the exhaustless subject of Palermo.quae hd

Departure from Palermo-Faro of Messena-Cala -brian and Sicilian coasts-Messena from the Faro -‡oEtna÷Sicilian coast and Etna, views of Arrival at Catania—First view of Catania—Convent of St. 189Nocoloso. EIT

ON the morning of the 24th instant I embarked in the Hero, Capt. Keith, for Catania. The weather was favorable,band oats 12 o'clock last night we were so near the Faro of Messena, that our Palermitan pilot thought it prudent toslid to until day light. We are now, 6 o'clock, in sight of Scylla. 19bnu 5 P. M. The wind was fair and we made for the Faro under easy sail. When about three miles distant we could perceive the roughness and agitation of the water. The Rock Scylla is on the Calabrian side. It is a steep promontory projecting into the sea. The vortex Charybdis is on the Sicilian side near Messena, and five or six miles from Scylla. Opposite Scylla, at the distance of three miles is a low point, on the extremity of which is a round light tower by the Greeks called Faro. Hence the name of the pass. On the same side we observed a cluster of fishermen's huts, and on the summit of Scylla a fortress covering a small village. The Calabrian shore is mountainous and more bold than the opposite coast. Messena is situated twelve miles from Scylla, at the southfern extremity of the Faro. We felt a degree of triumph as we entered this celebrated pass, on account of our perfect security. It presents no terrors to modern navigators.