It is as lofty as the grotto of Pausilypo near Naples, and so wide, “That with extended wings a banner'd host "Under spread ensigns marching, might pass through, We walked through this subterraneous or submontane passage, and as we passed the northern port, we looked down upon the fertile plains of Bresse, and the vast extent of Champagne country which bounds the territory of France. The mountain extends like a gigantic wall along the frontier of Savoy, and is impassable except at this place. Nature has separated Savoy from France on one side by a barrier as effectual, as from Piedmont on the other, by the high Alps, Notwithstanding this natural division the Savoyese territory extends below the rock. At the foot of the mountain is a village, Pont de Beauvoisin, of which a part belongs to one government, and a part to the other. Here we were visited by custom-house officers. The Admiral had warned me of this ordeal, and insisted upon my putting a piece of silk which I had purchased at Catania, into my pocket, instead of carrying it in my travelling portmanteau as I had usually done. Our trunks and portmanteaux were slightly examined; we were then ordered into a private apartment and our pockets searched-when lo! the contraband silk was discovered. I felt severely mortified, and not only drew upon myself the laughter of my companions, but the suspicion of the officer of the customs, who taxed me roundly, and returned to give my trunks a second examination. Mons. P. was found at last, to have a forbidden article in his pocket, which relieved me not a little, notwithstanding it was of so little value that the officer demanded no duty. If I had not taken the advice of the Admiral I should have escaped, in this instance, with impunity. I had followed it, contrary to the convictions of my own understanding. And since my respected travelling companion, did by his unwise counsel, place me in such an awkward dilemma, it is but common justice for me to say of him, that he possesses the foible of undue pertinacity of opinion in small matters; and I would earnestly recommend to those who may chance to pass the ordeal of any vigilant custom-house, to keep their contraband wares in any place, rather than upon their persons. But, Oh! the mortification of having them dragged reluctantly to light! I herewith pay my adviser the compliment of wishing him, at least half a dozen such agreeable adventures before he reaches London. This vexation at length passed, we journeyed on to a place called Verpiliere, where we slept. The country improves as we leave the mountains, but vegetation is much less advanced than on the other side of the Alps. There is a better population, and the agriculture is superior to any of the border territories of Italy. The cottages are built with small round pebbles and earth, so mixed as to form very neat and strong walls. They are generally roofed with slate of a superior quality; a few of the poorer cottages are thatched with straw. The roofs of all buildings, of whatever description, are high and sharp. The soil is naturally rich, but we observe a remarkable deficiency of shades, when compared with Italy. X LETTER XXXVI. Arrival at Lyons-Cathedral-Bridge-Hotel de Ville -Street scene-Mons. Paul-His love of country, how discovered. May 5.-FOR a distance of three or four leagues before we arrived at Lyons, we passed through a rich plain, highly cultivated; but without shades or enclosures. Mons. Paul assured me it was formerly ornamented by the finest shade trees in France, but they have been all destroyed by the armies which have besieged Lyons at different periods. In extent and evenness of surface, this plain is not unlike the Campagna di Roma. By cultivation, I presume the campagna might be rendered as fertile. We observed the buildings by the side of the road, covered with placards, advertisements and signs; unlike Italy, where we seldom or never see a mechanic, or shop-keeper's advertisement at his door. Bonaparte required that every man who was of a trade, or profession, should specify it in legible characters upon his dwelling. " "Vive le Roi et les Bourbons," written in many places upon the walls and signs, reminded us that we were in a country which had lately changed its masters, and very recently menaced the liberties of the world. We arrived at Lyons at 10 A. M. but it rained nearly all day, so that we could see but little of the city, yet we endeavored to take such a hasty view of things as the plan of our journey admits. We walked through the principal streets, quays, &c. and examined the most remarkable public buildings. The population of the city is eighty thou sand, being twenty thousand less than its ancient number. It has suffered greatly during various revolutions, yet coming as we do from the more ancient and depopulated cities of Italy, its appearance is comparatively modern and entire. The cathedral retains the marks of devastation and ruin, more than any other building. The numerous statues with which its front was ornamented, and the fine gothic tracery, and elaborate carved work, which decorated its interior, have been terribly defaced. So much so, that it has been considered useless to attempt any repairs. This building, venerable on account of its antiquity, and interesting to the present generation, from its being identified with many important national events, is considered one of the best specimens of gothic architecture in France. From the circumstance of its being the first building of the kind I had seen, I examined it with unusual interest. In going to this cathedral we crossed a noble bridge over the Saone, erected a few years since. It is an admirable structure, of as firm and durable materials, as the cloaca maxima; and as worthy the admiration of the world. It marks the Augustan age of France! We attempted to see the hospital, but not having time to obtain regular permission, we were not successful; nor were we more so in our endeavors to view the celebrated silk manufactories of Lyons, We walked to the Hotel de Ville, the most considerable edifice of the city. It occupies one side of the principal squares, is ornamented with three domes, and a grand fascade. It is built with good materials, and in an imposing style of architecture. The streets are universally crowded with well dressed and active people. We look from the window of the Hotel de Noix, upon the principal square. The centre of this square is shaded by a fine grove of trees, which are surrounded by a low empalement of iron and white marble. The buildings on every side, are covered with signs and fantastic exhibitions of merchandize. Not far from the hotel we observe a collection of wax figures, and some ludicrous paintings; with a Frenchman constantly blowing a horn to call customers to his shop. On the other side stands a gibbet, upon which are exposed three culprits with ropes about their necks, holding in their hands a scroll whereon is written the name, and the crime for which each is disgraced. Notwithstanding the rain, which falls in torrents, curiosity has attracted a vast crowd to witness this spectacle. 9 o'clock.-A little before sun set the weather became pleasant, and we walked about a mile and a half from the hotel, to the confluence of the Rhone and the Saone. The quay extends on both sides of the river to this confluence, and the promonade thither is truly delightful. I soon found the object of Mons, P. in choosing this walk, was to show me his countrymen, and fine country women to the best advantage, and I could not refuse him the confession, that I had never seen more beautiful ladies, or more graceful gentlemen. The perfect politeness of Mons, P. seldom allows him to speak in commendation of his own country, or any thing appertaining to it, but the most sensitive of all his nerves, is that which responds to the praises of Bonaparte; the next object of the repose of his pride and self complacency, is the charms of his fair country women; and last, the glory of the great nation. If he has any of that quality called sordid selfishness, it never discovers itself. In addition to the recommendation of a fine person and elegant manners, Mons. Paul possesses |