they have little, if any, leisure to spare from their occupation. In a country like this, everything must be constantly seen to by the principals, or there can be no guarantee for anything being done properly, or even done at all.

There is very little shooting to be had in the immediate neighbourhood, for the Croats have driven all the large game-except wild boars to a distance. Some eight or ten hours from hence many kinds of the larger game are found in abundance. Red deer, roe deer, boars, &c., besides plenty of pheasants, red-legged partridges, and hares-woodcock and duck, in the season-and a few francolinjackals, abound everywhere, and are very destructive of poultry and lambs. The lynx and wolf are not uncommon, and bears are often killed. I saw myself, in Kosloo Bay, some white-tailed eagles, and numerous large hawks and vultures were constantly soaring over-head during our ride. At Zungeldek there were Alpine swifts and bee-eaters. The latter breed in colonies, in holes in the banks of the river, like the sand-martins.

158

I LEAVE KOSLOO.

On the evening of the 10th, I re-embarked on board the Oscar. She had then just finished coaling, and started directly for the Bosphorus.

I was sorry to leave Kosloo so soon; but, in this country, one is obliged to avail onseself of every opportunity of locomotion; and I went away with the intention of returningbut this intention circumstances prevented my fulfilling.

CHAPTER XII.

RETURN TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

July 11th.-ARRIVED at Constantinople, and once more went to Misserie's Hotel. The only new feature in the house since I was last here, is an increase in the charges for everything. Previously, since the war began, fifteen francs a-day was the usual charge, and a franc extra for service. Now, however, Misserie has raised it to seventeen francs, which, with the service, makes eighteen francs, and includes lodging, breakfast, dinner, and vin ordinaire-certainly not ordinarily bad wine; for it is, without exception the worst

160

MISSERIE'S HOTEL.

I ever tasted; and I wonder at, yet admire, the dura ilia' of those who are able to drink it. It has a strong flavour of alum and fiddlestrings, and it will be some time. before you can get the taste of it out of your mouth, if you are rash enough to try it.

Anyone residing in this or in any other hotel in the East has to pay the daily charge, whether he sleep, breakfast, or dine at home or not; and the hotel-keepers have good reason for providing bad table wine, as then the guests have to pay-and smartly, toofor beer, other wine, &c. Three francs a-bottle for beer, and six francs for common sherry, and other prices in proportion, make hotelkeeping in the East a very profitable business.

Although Misserie's Hotel takes the lead in charging, still I am bound to say that it does so in comfort as well; and the other houses follow the example set much closer in the former than in the latter instance. The house is unexceptionably clean; better beds I never slept in; and Mrs. Misserie, who is an Englishwoman, looks after all these things herself. There are also other comforts-nay, luxuries,

DEATH OF COLONEL VICO.

161

to which I cannot more closely allude, which are to be found at Misserie's, and in which many other houses are lamentably deficient. During my whole residence I never lived at any other hotel, as I always thought Misserie's the cheapest, considering the return one got for one's money.

At this time of year, every one who can, goes to live somewhere on the Bosphorus, and Pera is comparatively empty. Therapia and Buyukderé are the favourite places for English people, and the hotels are usually much crowded, and one has to bespeak a room some time beforehand. I lost no time in doing so, and in the meantime remained in Pera.

12th. We heard that Colonel Vico of the French army, attached to the English Head Quarters in the Crimea, had died of cholera, and that the same disease had carried off Mr. Calvert, the Russian Interpreter and head of the Secret Intelligence Department (which includes the management and examination of spies). I believe Mr. Calvert's real name was Cattley, and that he had formerly been our Vice Consul at Kertch.

VOL. II.

M