CHAPTER II.

BERDIANSK-ARABAT-GENITCHI.

May 27th.-SUNDAY. The squadron moved in early, and anchored as near to Berdiansk as the depth of water would admit, with their guns bearing on the town. The boats were again manned, and advanced in a line for the shore, preceded by a flag of truce. The inhabitants crowded on to the beach and pier, and the governor came down, hoisted a white flag, and surrendered, as he had no means of resistance. Our demand on this and all similar occasions was that all shipping, government buildings, grain-stores, things con

traband of war-including whatever would serve as provision for the Russian army-and all public property should be given up, and that all private property should be respected, notifying that if they did not accede to the demand, the ships would shell the town and fire the stores and shipping. As it was 'peace' between us for a time, the boats were beached, the seamen and marines landed, and were drawn up on the shore, while Captains Coles and Craufurd went through the town, with a party of marines, to see what stores there might be.

On the beach were some small vessels, which were soon in flames. A large range of buildings, full of grain, was also burned, as well as some smaller stores. Besides these, the town received no damage; and no plundering was allowed. The place was full of pigs and poultry, and they would run about. The temptation was too great for the sailors; they broke loose, and commenced shooting at them. The French did the same, or worse, for while shooting at the pigs, the smoke was so thick and blinding, that they

14

RUSSIAN STEAMERS.

did not see where our men were, and kept up a smart fire upon us. Bullets were whistling about, and kicking up the dust at our feetone hardly knew where to go to get out of fire. Some ran for shelter to the burning vessels on the beach. I stood still, and at last the firing stopped, to my great delight, for I believe I was never in greater danger. After all I have seen and gone through, uninjured, it would not be pleasant to be shot, as sailors shoot pigs!

The four Russian steamers, which had escaped from Kertch, were run ashore close to the town, and burned to the water's edge. Three of them had been built of wood, and nothing remained above water but their funnels, and the iron frame-work of the paddle wheels. The fourth had been a fine English built, iron screw-steamer-carrying heavy guns, and called the Argonaut, and her hull remained entire; but the inside had been burned out. An eight-inch gun was raised and brought away. Her figure-head also, representing the bust of a man in armour, and finely gilt, was cut off, and brought on board the Miranda.

On our first landing, a man came down to meet us, and act as interpreter; his name was Otho Dominica, a Maltese. He was, or had been, clerk to a Scotch merchant in Berdiansk, who was married to a Russian lady; and who, on hearing of our entrance into the Sea of Azoff, had gone off into the interior, taking the whole of his family, and leaving the house and property in charge of his clerk, who informed us that the steamers from Kertch, brought the news of our landing and passing the straits. Their crews ran the ships straight on shore, and set fire to them. and wanted to burn the town, saying that if they did not do so the English would. The inhabitants, however, prevented them-whereupon they set off over-land for Taganrog, leaving the former in terrible alarm.

They landed

Berdiansk is a clean, well-built town, on a low, sandy beach, with a high cliff rising behind it. It contains a great many German and Italian colonists. All Russian towns I have seen are a great contrast to towns in Turkey. In the whole Turkish dominions, there is not so good, nor so habitable a town

as Kertch was not excepting Constantinople. It was reported that there were eight hundred Cossacks with guns, a few miles inland. So it would not have been prudent to have remained long on shore, or to have gone so far from the water as to burn a row of haystacks, which were on the top of the above-mentioned cliff. The Russians we saw and conversed with, seemed to be confident that we should not take Sebastopol; but our passing the Straits of Kertch surprised them.

We released a peasant who had been taken prisoner yesterday on the Spit; he would not go off without his passport, which had been taken from him, and which, he said, he was obliged to show. Russia must be a nice country to reside in, when even the peasantry are required to have passports! When all the stores visible were in flames, the boats returned to the ships and were hoisted in.

Soon after, however, Captain Coles was ordered to go on shore again, and take a party of Marines and search for some Russian charts of the Sea of Azoff; which were reported to be in some house in the town, having been