a foretaste of the delightful and picturesque scenery of the vales and mountains of "the Tyrol" towards which we were speeding. Among other things Salzburg is memorable for the sufferings of its people in the cause of Protestantism. They were persecuted in every way, but still clung to their faith. At last, in 1727, they were expatriated to the number of thirty thousand, and found a refuge in Russia, Poland and America, while to crown their sufferings, parents were torn from their children, they being to the number of one thousand taken to be educated in the Roman Catholic faith. We left this charming place at one P.M. and were at Munich at six the next morning, where we spent three days viewing all the novelties of this unique city.

MUNICH A CITY OF FRESCO, ITS CHURCHES, PALACESGLYPTOTHEK AND PINACOTHEK-ENGLISH GARDEN-TYROL, ITS SCENERY AND PEASANTRY-VALLEY OF THE INN -THE HOUSES, COSTUMES, PRODUCTS--THE TYROLESE

ALPS

&c., &c.

INSPRUCK -HOFER -PATRIOTISM OF TYROLESE,

Milan, September. We arrived at Munich early on the morning of Monday, September 18, and commenced our sight-seeing in company with a Russian officer, who had been our travelling companion from Salzburg, and whose society we found very pleasant and agreeable, especially as he spoke English perfectly. I had heard many of the English express their admiration of Munich, and all as it seemed to me because it was new, this unique city having been renovated during the reign of the present King Lewis I, of Bavaria, father of Otho, King of Greece. I thought to myself, if you wish to see new cities built in a day, you had best go to America, but I soon found that it was not the newness of creation but of style, that so charmed them, everything was so entirely different from anything their previous travel had offered. The King of Bavaria is very rich, and has at his own expense built many fine churches, palaces and theatres, as well as temples for paintings and sculpture. Everything here is al fresco. The exterior of his buildings, generally, is exceedingly plain, in the Byzantine style, while the interior is brilliant and gorgeous beyond description. His own palace is mostly painted in imitation of the buried ones at Pompeii,

and contains a fine collection of antiquities, dug from that city and Herculaneum, under his inspection, and at great expense; also some fine antique mosaic pavements. It contains an innumerable series of rooms, the walls of which are filled with frescoes or variegated marble, the ceilings are fresco and gold, the floors, pillars and staircases of rich marble. Very many of the floors are a mosaic of different colored wood, very beautiful, and with a surface so polished and slippery that you seem to be walking on ice, and you may think yourself fortunate to go through them, and keep yourself perpendicular. The ground hall contains a series of statues of gilt bronze, fourteen in number, representing princes and electors of Bavaria, each in the costume of the time in which he lived. They are each ten feet high, and cost five thousand dollars each, and the same for gilding; they were designed by Schwanthaler. The cathedral built of brick is four hundred years' old, has two tall dome-capped towers three hundred and thirty-six feet high. It contains a very imposing monument to the Emperor Lewis. Four Bavarian knights are kneeling at the corners, and two dukes standing on either side, all in bronze. Over the tomb is suspended from the wall the hat of Cardinal Cleselius, who began the world as a baker's apprentice. St. Michael's or the Jesuits church, built in the Italian style, is remarkable for its lofty arched roof, unsupported by any pillars. It contains Thorwaldsen's monument to Eugene Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg; a full length statue of the Duke attended by a muse and the Genii of life and death. The church of St. Lewis just completed, not yet consecrated, has two towers, and is built of brick, faced with white marble. The pillars, altars and pavements are of a composition in imitation of marble. Behind the altar is a fine fresco of the last judgment, by Cornelius, one of the best things about the church. The windows, though of superbly painted glass, are too

small for the size of the edifice, the ceilings are too gaudy, and the altars and stalls comparatively too plain, still the effect of the whole is extremely rich and gorgeous. The chapel of All Saints is very rich and beautiful. The sides and ceiling are fresco paintings on a gold ground, the pillars and pavement are all of marble, of different kinds and color. There is a church in one of the suburbs beyond the river, exceedingly beautiful. The ceiling is painted blue with gold stars, and there are nineteen gothic windows, painted or stained after the modern improvement of this ancient art, which has been brought to great perfection in Munich. Each window represents some scene in the life of the virgin, and the church is named after and dedicated to her. The altars, pulpits and stalls, all of wood in its natural color, beautifully carved in statues, &c. any church we had visited. building, will exceed all the columns of Tyrolean marble, each twenty feet high. There are two series of paintings al fresco, the first representing scenes and events in the lives of the saints and martyrs; the lower devoted to the history of the holy missionary, St. Boniface. These are by Hess and his pupils. There is also a small chapel in the old palace called the rich, on account of the precious metal and stones expended in its decoration, its floor being of jasper, porphyry, and amethyst, its walls of Florentine mosaic, and the altar with all attached to it, as well as the pipes of the organ, being of solid silver. It has also a small portable altar, said to have belonged to Mary Queen of Scots, and which she carried with her to

This pleased me more than That of St. Boniface, now others. It has seventy-two

e block, and after serving in her last devotions, was given by her to one of her attendants. So much for the churches. The Glyptothek or gallery of sculpture, is a beautiful building inside and out. The portico is ornamented with twentyfour statues, and the distribution of the interior is such that

a separate apartment is allotted to the works of each distinct epoch of the art. The ceilings are decorated with stucco, gilding and fresco, the walls are scagliola, the floors of marble, and the stair-cases of polished granite. The ground floor is filled with Egyptian and Etruscan antiquities, with a great many from Pompeii and Herculaneum, and these are arranged on shelves with mirrors behind them, so that you are enabled to see them on every side. The hall of modern sculpture contains some exquisite works by Canova, Schadow and Thorwaldsen. The Pinacothek or picture gallery, the most magnificent edifice for that purpose in Europe, is also a splendid building, much larger than the other, and contains some 1500 paintings of all the different schoolsamong them are some fine Murillos-we have scarcely seen them in any collection so good. The corridor is beautifully painted in arabesque fresco, each compartment painted to illustrate some incident in the life of different eminent painters of every country. The collection of the Duke of Leuchtenberg is here, and though not large, contains some very beautiful pictures, and two or three exquisite statues. Painting both on glass and porcelain is wrought here in the greatest perfection. We visited the manufactories and were shown most exquisite specimens. The windows of many of the shops, too, make a great display of these, which, with the beautiful cut glass, colored every hue of the rainbow, make a gay and glittering show. There is one fine open square enclosed by these beautiful shops, similar to the Palais Royal at Paris, with a covered walk or open corridor, the sides of it decorated with fresco paintings, depicting historical incidents, battle scenes, &c. One afternoon we drove a little out of town to see a plaster model of a colossal statue emblematic of Bavaria, which is to be of bronze, and erected in one of the most conspicuous squares of the city. It has an immense building to protect it like ships