ours is the true Eden. May we never do aught to forfeit it. We have not the great wealth of many nations this side the Atlantic, nor the grandeur and display which wealth affords ; neither have we the poverty, misery and degradation that is always seen in such sad contrast. "Give me neither poverty nor riches," is a prayer as well suited to national as individual happiness; and a competency is more conducive to national as well as individual enjoyment and health than an overgrown fortune misapplied, or prosperity not properly appreciated-but I have no time here to moralize. I hope you do not expect a description of Paris from me; I will take it for granted that you are as weary as myself of these descriptions; I will only say of it that it is "a curious sight, And very much unlike what people write." I will add a few words only of those places here that I affect most. It is on Sunday that I am now writing; hand organs are playing in the streets-pianos are sounding all around me, and the shops are open as on week-day. We have been walking in the Tuileries gardens, and how much I wished my little ones were among the multitude of children playing there; some with hoops, balls, and jumping ropes; and some wee, toddling things, dressed in velvet, and sent here with their wooden shovel, to play in the dirt, making dirt-pies and building mud forts; and such sport as they do have, and such a noise of happy voices; I wish you could hear them, but I trust soon to hear as happy ones, and those that are far dearer. The great beauty and boast of Paris is its beautiful walks and gardens; and they excel those of London in that they are the daily resort of all classes, for enjoyment and recreation; with seats provided for the infirm or weary. Hyde Park does admirably for those who keep their carriage; but as no hired carriage is allowed to enter, you are obliged to THE CHAMPS ELYSEES. 367 foot it; and this from its great extent is somewhat fatiguing to those not possessed of an English constitution. I think we could never have visited Paris at a more delightful season, for the whole country about is so beautifully verdant, and the trees are not only in full foliage, but covered with their spring blossoms, the whole country seems in bloom-and these immense horse chestnuts of the Tuileries look magnificent, filled with their beautiful clusters of white flowers. I think no place in the world can exceed the Champs Elyseès. It is in the centre of what may be called an immense park; large pillars of bronze gilt support large lamps, and enclose a circle, otherwise ornamented with fine fountains, and beautiful statues emblematic of the different provinces. From this circle you pass through the Tuileries gardens to that portion of the palace forming the royal residence, and which presents to you its quaint and antique front. This road continues a mile and a half in the opposite direction, and is closed by one of the most magnificent arches in the world; certainly the largest, and presenting from its top one of the most lovely panoramas in the world; the whole of Paris, and the innumerable villages which are so many beautiful adjuncts to the whole. Standing in this circle, with your back very disrespectfully turned upon the royal residence, you have before you this splendid arch of triumph, closing a long perspective; on your right a wide and beautiful avenue shows the church of the Madeleine, and another on your left is closed by the magnificent chamber of deputies. Then you have the Seine, with its many bridges, winding along at your left; and before and around you are pretty buildings, ornamenting this extensive park ; theatres, cafès, palaces, and other handsome edifices, scattered throughout, and forming a whole nowhere to be exceeded. Paris abounds in theatres; within the city bounds there 368 THE PALAIS ROYAL. are twenty-one, besides many small ones in the compartments without; but its churches in comparison are few. The most conspicuous are the beautiful Madeleine, built by Napoleon, Notre-Dame, St. Sulpice, St. Denis, the burialplace of their kings, and the Pantheon of their great and distinguished men. But one does not need to go lionhunting here; scarce a street you pass along but has been the stage of some tragic acting, and your notice is too often directed to spots which are pointed out as the scene of some horrid deed, where men got drunk with blood to vomit crime." 66 I turn from these to another of my chosen resorts, the Palais Royal, where is a scene that seems ever changing, ever new, and yet always the same; where one may well say "A rich confusion form'd a disarray In such sort, that the eye along it cast Object on object flashed so bright and fast; And now do you know anything of Paris? No, and you would not but with the acquaintanceship of years; and then, only as a great Babylon, a concentrated world, an assemblage of the universe, a place where all extremes meet, a bazaar of all things animate and inanimate, beautiful, curious and fantastic; and where one may find all that heart can desire, save friends and home. And now a last adieu. THE END. CONTENTS. LETTER I. Anglesea-Its Copper Works-The River Mersey-The Roadside- LETTER II. Dryburgh Abbey-Walter Scott's Tomb-Abbotsford-Melrose LETTER III. LETTER IV. Route-Menai Bridge-Coal Mines-Oxford-London-Grand Review-Parks- Opera-Tower- Docks-Thames Tunnel- LETTER V. Brussels-Its Lace, and Lace Manufacture-Singular Appendage --- LETTER VI. Konigstein- Prague- Bohemia - Smokers-Novel Railroad Lintz-Ischl-Fete Day at Gmunden-Dress of the Peasantry- The Saltskammergat-Life at the Baths-Maria Louisa-Prison LETTER VII. LETTER IX. 370 CONTENTS. LETTER X. PAGE Ascent of Mount Righi-Tell's Chapel-Lago Maggiore-Catho- LETTER XI. Cave of Adelsburg-The River Poik-Ball-room under Ground— LETTER XII. Carlo Borromeo-Duomo of Milan-Venice-Ancona-Corfu- LETTER XIII. Greek Costume-Island of Scio-Ravages of the Greek Revolu- LETTER XIV. Fire Towers-Cemeteries-" Sweet Waters of Europe"-Royal LETTER XV. Lazaretto at Malta-Visit to the Mosque at St. Sophia-The Slave LETTER XVI. Mahmoud's Mausoleum-The Bazaars-Palace of the Sultan- LETTER XVII. Voyage to Malta-Dangers of Shipwreck-Smyrna-The Fig Sea- LETTER XVIII. Valetta-Churches-Castle-Bells-Sickness of the Archbishop- LETTER XIX. Syracuse Temple of Minerva-Ear of Dionysius-Dead Monks LETTER XX. Drive of the Toledo-King of Naples-Antiquities from Pompeii- LETTER XXI. Herculaneum-The Campo Santa-A Burial-The Grotto of Ca- 117 125 139 148 . 156 |