tance after a week's stay in the same hotel. Reached Gibraltar by four next morning, but had to wait gazing upon those old pillars of Hercules, those huge keys of the Mediterranean, till the health-officer came to us and gave us a free pratique, which was not till eight o'clock. Then we had all to stand on the landing till the roll was called, and each answered to his name, delivered up his passport, gave security for his good behavior, and received a permit to enter the gates,—this being a garrison, and in the hands of the English, who not only have strict regulations, but enforce them; which last, however, I like, much as I may temporarily suffer in consequence.

We despatched a letter and card by a messenger to our consul, that our entrance and other matters might through him be facilitated, and his son soon came to our relief, and escorted us to the hotel. This is a free port, so that you have no difficulty with custom-house officers; but as our stay was only for the day, we brought nothing on shore. The hotel to which we were conducted looked out upon an open square, that is used as an auction mart. The people from all the neighboring Spanish towns, as well as those on the opposite coast of Africa, come here to make purchases of the various produce and manufactures that find their way hither from all parts of the world, and afford a motley and amusing scene. Besides the different Spanish costumes I have before described, you see the Moors and Arabs habited some what after the Turkish fashion, except their dress is better and cleaner than is usual with the Turks. I have never seen more beautiful turbans than those worn by these men ; they are so white and clean, of the finest cambric, ample and well-proportioned in size, with folds so innumerable and well arranged. Then there are the Barbary Jews, with their loose wrappers of woollen stuff, striped with white and black, reaching only to the knee, and displaying their naked

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legs and feet thrust into loose slippers; their long beards, that have never known a razor, giving them the air of “ wise and potent signors," and the reverend look of age, without its years. Women wear a bright scarlet cloak and hood, bordered all around with a broad fold of black velvet, which contrasts well with the graceful and sombre mantilla; besides these, a plentiful sprinkling of soldiers in every variety of uniform; the most conspicuous are the Scotch regiment, in full Highland costume, with their kilts and scarfs of gray plaid, and their heavy black plumes waving and nodding above the crowd. With all this, and some other concomitants to aid the ludicrous, as well as the interesting, you may fancy the scene amusing to any one gazing upon it from a balcony near at hand. In the breakfast-room we found three American gentlemen occupying one end of the table, and placing ourselves at the other, we soon claimed them as countrymen; for our conversation being in French, to suit our companion, they had not recognized us as hailing from the same land. They were arranging to go to Tangiers, and almost tempted us to join them; but the mode of conveyance is so disagreeable, being in boats that are used to bring over cattle, and without any sort of accommodation, that the temptation was not quite irresistible; besides, in returning, we have to company with the cattle, and this was a serious drawback. About noon our consul with his lady called to see us; we had heard of them so often, and so highly spoken of, that I was most happy to make their acquaintance, and regretted exceedingly that our short stay would not permit us to see more of them, or receive their many and cordially proffered offers of kindness. Mr. S. procured us a permit to ascend the rock, but at present, as workmen are busy in the galleries, no person is admitted to see the excavations. At two, we, accompanied by the Frenchman, took horses and ascended to the signal station,

318

A GARRISON TOWN-AFRICA.

whence you have an extensive view-it is said, forty leagues. We could distinguish the houses of the town of Ceuta, on the African coast, very plainly, the channel here being very narrow, only seven or eight miles; to Tangiers is only sixteen miles, so that we may truly say that we have seen Africa. We could see, too, among the highlands that bound the Afric coast, some peaks covered with snow. The climate here is delightful; they have no ice in the winter, and the whole surface of the rock is covered with verdure, and a great variety of beautiful wild-flowers. The keeper of the station said he had seen that morning three large monkeys on the high peak that rises just behind the signal station; they are natives here, but are not often seen, now that the rock is so much inhabited. The great height attained so immediately above the town, gives a fine insight into it, and the plan of its fortifications; just above the town are the remains of an old Moorish tower, castle and wall, forming quite a conspicuous object both from above and below. We descended by a different road, some parts of which were so narrow, and so near the edge of the precipice, that we dismounted, and led our horses a long distance. As we entered the town, we passed the Alameda, where is the paradeground, on which we could see the soldiers going through their exercises. I like a garrison town; I like to hear the sound of the drum, the notes of the bugle, the fine music of the band, and now and then the firing of cannon, as it comes booming over the water. We dismounted at the house of Mr. S., who had kindly offered to drive with us through the town. We found him reading his paper in a comfortable chair by the fire, his eldest daughter taking a lesson at the piano, and everything looked domestic, happy, and cheerful, even to the huge St. Bernard dog and the pretty gazelle that was gambolling about the parlor; and from the courtyard came the sound of happy children's voices, that drew

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319

from me a sigh; but whether it reached from this far distance those in my thoughts at the time, is doubtful. Mrs. S. and the carriage were soon in readiness, and as we drove along she pointed out, as we passed, the court-house, the governor's house and gardens, and the handsome English church. We drove through the Alameda, but our time would not allow of our walking through the beautiful grounds orna. menting it; so, after a delightful drive, we alighted at our hotel. Mr. C. purchased some mementos in specimens of this singular rock, and at six, P. M., we left in the steamer, while the guns of the fort were firing a salute to an English frigate just entering the harbor. We were soon out of the

harbor, and in Calpe's straits, where

"Europe and Afric on each other gaze,

Land of the dark-eyed maid and dusky Moor;"

and we turned from one side of the boat to the other to look, now upon Europa point, and now upon the coast of Africa; both of which seemed, with the darkness to aid the deception, very close. We had soon passed the straits, and found ourselves gazing upon the broad Atlantic, whose far-off waves were washing the shores of our own dear land; and as I looked upon them, I felt more at home, and as if we were, as we now are, truly "homeward bound."

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CADIZ.

LETTER XXXV.

CADIZ-ITS HOUSES, TOWERS, BALCONIES, WALLS, HARBOR AND SITUATION--THE CATHEDRAL--EXTINCTION OF MONASTERIES AND CONVENTS-MURILLO AND HIS PAINTINGS -SANTA MARIA AND SIDONIA MEDINA.

Cadiz, March.

THE next morning after leaving Gibraltar, we found ourselves at an early hour in the port of Cadiz, and oh! how beautiful it looked from our deck! The water is so very blue that washes the walls which extend all around the city, and the sky so very bright and clear, that the dazzling whiteness of the whole city seemed more beautiful, if possible, from the contrast. All the houses are large and well built; all have the appearance of palaces, for even the habitations of the poor are extensive, affording accommodations to many families. The city is built on a point of land, almost an island, near the mouth of the Guadelquiver, and connected with the island of Leon by a beautiful beach, or narrow causeway of sand; this is guarded by forts, and the whole city enclosed by high walls, a large portion of which are formed into a public walk, or alameda, the top being paved, affording a delightful promenade along the water's edge, and from their great height a fine sea view.

Located in the house of Donna Antonia, (who had been highly recommended to us by a friend,) and refreshed by a good and plentiful breakfast, Mr. C. walked out to call on the consul, Mr.B., and deliver his letters. At two o'clock Mr. B. came to walk with us. We went first to the cathedral, an immense pile, not yet finished outside, and but just completed