SPANISH CEMETERY.

311

of small niches, resembling pigeon-holes in a dove-cot; and in these are placed lengthwise the coffins containing the bodies of the dead, which when thus filled, are closed up with mortar. This is kept of the purest white, and contrasts well with the green sod of the enclosure, in the centre of which is a round building, with a dome, or spire, and two wings, very similar to the mausoleums of the sultans at Constantinople. This serves both as a chapel and a dead-house, prior to the interment. There were also one or two columns within the square, and the whole formed one of the most singular objects I have in a long time seen; and things must be exceedingly curious and novel, to strike with much force after having seen so much that is strange and new. I inquired of Mr. R. if no one was buried in the ground of the enclosure. He said "Yes, perhaps a few too poor to buy a niche." Certes--I envied the poor man his poverty that allowed him the privilege of being covered by the green sod of the valley, and to have his grave waved o'er by the soft boughs of the evergreen pine. But now

"The night is stealing on,

And the day takes its farewell, like the last tone

Of hallow'd music in a minster's aisles,

Heard when it floats along the shade of elms,

In the still place of graves."

So looking our adieux upon the silent resting-place before us, we turned our faces towards the city of the living. Mr. R. led us through orange groves, the trees of which are now laden with fruit, ripe and ready to fall, at the same time that the branches are filled with buds just opening into pretty white flowers, and sending forth an odor that fills the air with fragrance. In one of these orchards a man was busy irrigating his field. Trenches are dug in every direction, and by means of these, water is conveyed to all the trees : a little embankment is raised at the various turnings, and

312

NATURAL SCENERY.

these are removed and replaced, as they fill with water or require filling. Oh! how delightful every thing was; enjoying nature in such a way is luxury indeed. So great indeed had been my delight that though our walk had been a long one in addition to the fatigues of the day, I felt not a whit weary.

"We had seen in the vast and the minute,

The unambiguous footsteps of the God
Who gives its lustre to an insect's wing,
And wheels His throne upon the rolling worlds."

VIEW OF THE TOWN.

313

ROYALISTS

LETTER XXXIV.

SHOT-SPANISH REVENUE CUTTERS--SERVICE

IN THE CATHEDRAL-DEPARTURE FROM MALAGA-GIBRALTAR-SOLDIERS-THE GALLERIES-A DRIVE ON THE

ALAMEDA.

Cadiz, March.

We had been in Malaga long enough to see all that was most desirable, and in fact to have the time hang somewhat heavy in expectation of the arrival of the steamer, that was to bring us letters and bear us onward; and at dinner on Saturday the good tidings were brought us that she was in sight. As soon as she had anchored, Mr. C., accompanied by the consul, went on board to secure berths, and see if there was any possibility of obtaining our letters; but as they were directed to Gibraltar, they were enclosed for that place, and we must wait till our arrival there. The steamer brought news of the surrender of Alicant; the chief of the insurgents had deserted, but was taken and shot by the royalists. Forty-two of the insurgents were killed, and a Spanish steamer that was in port was much damaged by the shot. After their return we sallied out together, and extended our walk to the extremity of the mole, on which the light-house stands, whence we had a fine view of the whole extent of the town, and of the bay within and without the mole; we then descended the rocks that form the foundation of the warning light; awhile

"We wandered on the pebbled beach,

Marking the sunlight of the evening hour,

And hearkened to the thoughts the waters teach-
Eternity Eternity and Power!"

Mr. R. directed our attention to some Spanish revenue cutters that were in port, their foremast raking forward, the mainmast quite perpendicular; each had one or two long booms extending from the bowsprit far up above the topmast, running transversely, and bearing one or more lateen sails. They sail with incredible velocity, and can overtake any craft whatever. On our return we paused at the other end of the mole, to watch the embarking of a company of soldiers in various boats waiting to receive them, on their way, I believe, to Morocco. As we walked along the quay, we noticed some beautiful Spanish horses apparently for sale, very fancifully tricked out, and as beautiful as Spanish horses only are. Some of these were magnificent; they have all the beauty and spirit of the Arabian, but are larger. Sunday morning we went to the cathedral in hopes to hear some good music, but were too late. A priest was edifying a pretty full audience with a sermon in, I have no doubt, very good Spanish; but unfortunately not understanding it, we could not benefit by his good advice. It was a novel sight, such a multitude of donnas in their black mantillas kneeling on the pavement beneath the pulpit, flirting their fans even here. The dons surrounded them with a triple ring, seeming to stand as sentinels over them, the only appearance of devotion being their serious demeanor and uncovered heads. The ladies remained kneeling, and the men in their standing posture, till the service was over. In entering any Spanish church, it is expected that the lady separate herself from the gentleman who accompanies her— that is, not to enter arm in arm; and though it is not required, it is considered much more respectful for the lady to doff her bonnet, as well as the gentleman his hat. The first is not only expected, but required, in all Catholic churches of every country. Late in the afternoon the consul called for us to walk; and passing along the quay, we came to a

THE REST OF THE WEARY.

315

road that led us beyond the city, to a pretty enclosure situated on an eminence overlooking the port and the town, and in the midst of grounds prettily laid out and ornamented with flowery shrubs, and a profusion of geraniums, covered with bright scarlet flowers, that grow here in the greatest luxuriance. This was the English cemetery, containing some twenty graves, each mound covered with a variety of pretty shells, and between and all around was a hard smooth pavement filled with pots of flower plants; the entire wall of the enclosure was beautifully draped with vines trained over them. A pile of earth and an open chasm told that “ nature's last bed-maker," the sexton, had been busy here. His services were required for a friend of Mr. R.'s, by whose sick bed he had spent many watchful hours during our stay, but who had the night before been gathered by the hand of the reaper death, and was soon to be consigned "to the dark vestibule of departed souls," the tomb. The woman who opened the gate for us, gathered me a lovely bouquet from the flowers growing in this small, yet pretty dwelling of the stranger dead, most of whom have given up life far from their friends and home. Peace to their manes. The next day, Monday, was our last; and I had full occupation in making preparations for our departure, pottering, as Fanny Kemble says, among my things, which I found had been pretty well tumbled by the various custom-house officers through whose hands they have passed since they were last packed. Mr. R., notwithstanding the sad duties in which he was at this time engaged, found time to procure and send me a large bunch of orange flowers, with their pretty white buds and lovely green leaves filling my room with fragrance; a fragrance almost overpowering. We left Malaga precisely at nine P. M., in company with a French gentleman who had been our fellow-passenger from Valencia, and with whom we had made a pleasant acquain