cent painting of Christ disputing with the Doctors. Mr. Freeman, too, has some very beautiful pictures, and all, of his own designing. I like to see that there is still some originality existing among us. I must stop now; for here is an end to my paper. If my farewells were as long as my letters, you might hope for some rest; but for me, when I commence a sheet, and look upon its field of white, I wish it were an acre. Adieu.

JOURNEY

FROM

LETTER XXVIII.

ROME-THE LILY OF ITALY--THE BAZAAR--THE DUOMO-SANTA CROCE-BALL AT THE BORGHESE PALACE-THE BOBOLI GARDENS-TYROLEAN PEASANTS--MANUFACTORY OF PIETRA DURA-CANDLEMAS-BALL AT THE PITTI PALACE.

Florence, Friday.

MY DEAR H.--We left the Eternal City and its many hills with far more regret than I could have anticipated on my first arrival. We left about noon, the weather bright and pleasant, though a little cold; but having the coupee of the diligence to ourselves, we found it very comfortable and agreeable. The country through which we passed was decidedly uninteresting; the trees bare, all things wearing their winter apparel; and the whole day's ride was without interest or incident. We stopped to dine at Ronciglione, and then continued on our way through the dark hours of the night. About ten in the morning we reached Radicofani, on the borders of Tuscany, where we breakfasted.

The scenery to-day was fine, and needed only the rich verdure of summer to make it beautiful. The Appenines, with their snow-clad summits, were before us, and when tinged by the rays of the rising and setting sun, were beautiful. The town of Radicofani is situated on a very high hill, which we were some two hours in ascending, and on two neighboring hills were other villages, forming together a picturesque view. When we had nearly attained the summit of the hill, the diligence proceeding very slowly, three or four little boys from the village walked beside us,

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THE LILY OF ITALY.

and gave us some very good music, all singing together, and keeping most excellent time and tune, and picking up bioccis that were thrown to them, as they walked along. Our journey from Rome seemed to be an almost continued ascent. We had always six, and sometimes nine horses: in ascending Radicofani, we had eight horses and four oxen. The difference between the Papal dominions and Tuscany, is immediately perceptible on passing the frontiers. The country here is better cultivated, the people in better condition; the roads are far better, and all things look more thriving and comfortable. The landscape became more interesting from the many pretty villages we passed and saw in the distance; and the pretty villas and ruined castles rendered it more picturesque.

We arrived at Florence at an early hour in the morning, and had all things arranged, and were in readiness to see what was to be seen in the Lily of Italy, as the Florentines call their charming city. The galleries of Florence are of course the first and greatest attractions; but they have been so often described, that their contents are, from descriptions and copies, familiar to most. The Bazaar here is a curious place, and contains a multifarious assortment of things. It is a large enclosure, with passages running in all directions, on either side of which, are stands with long glass show-cases; in these are arranged a great variety of things, and a card put up over each case, with the price of the articles marked on it. In one case, all the articles will be one paul each; in the next, two pauls; and so on. You are thus saved the trouble of asking, and the vender of telling, the price. I know of no more amusing place of passing a few hours. The assortment and variety is so complete, that I think one would not be at a loss for anything, from a "pulpit to a coon skin." We went next to the Duomo or Cathedral, the dome of which is said to be the largest in the

THE CATHEDRAL OF FLORENCE.

259

world, and to have served Michael Angelo as the model of St. Peter's. The Cathedral is immense, and covers a great extent of ground: its whole exterior is encrusted with marble; the white still retaining much of its originial purity of color, while the dark marble has become quite black, and being in mosaic, gives it very much the appearance of having been built of large dominoes, most singular and unique. The interior is large, spacious and gloomy, with very little ornament. It has in the centre a large enclosure called the Tribune, with a ballustrade of white marble and fine bas reliefs. Close by, is its tall campanile and the baptistery, both encrusted with the same marble mosaic as the duomo, and all having the same outward appearance. The baptistery is in form octagonal, and is supposed to have been originally a heathen temple dedicated to Mars. Its dome is lined with gold mosaic like those of St. Mark at Venice. It has antique columns around the interior forming the altars and niches, containing statues of many different saints. Its three celebrated bronze doors, with exquisite bas reliefs, were so beautiful, indeed, as to cause Michael Angelo to say of them, that they were fit to be the gates of Paradise.

We went next to the Church of Santa Croce, which contains the monuments of Michael Angelo, Dante, Alfieri, Machiavelli, and the "Starry Galileo"--each monument a fine specimen of sculpture, as well as a memorial of great men. We had still an hour to spare, and so went to the Uffiji, one of the principal galleries. The most interesting room is that called the Hall of Niobe, from a statue of Niobe standing in attitude of shelter and protection over her daughter. The room is large, and filled with other statues, all expressive of grief, but each in a different manner, and in the figure of a dead child, there is something so awfully fascinating, that one can scarce withdraw themselves from it. One room here is filled with gems, beautiful things

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THE BOBOLI GARDENS.

One

wrought with great skill, of gold and precious stones. of the curiosities is a large circular table, its top a mosaic of rare and precious stones, which occupied four men constantly twenty-two years in its formation. In the evening, Mr. C. and a friend went to a splendid ball given by the citizens of Florence, and patronized by the nobility. It was given in the Borghese palace, which has been purchased for the purpose. There had been six thousand tickets given out, and forty rooms were to be open for the reception and entertainment of the guests. There were card rooms, billiard rooms, and "Salle a manger,' a

,"where a table was furnished throughout the evening, three dancing rooms, with each a band, and every thing splendidly magnificent. The Court arrived at eleven, and retired at twelve, but the company continued dancing till two. It was, altogether, a grand affair, and the gentlemen were quite delighted. Sunday afternoon, we drove to the Boboli gardens, the grounds of the Pitti palace. They are very lovely, the most beautiful we have seen, Schonbrun hardly excepted. The grounds are very extensive, laid out with much taste, and ornamented with a profusion of statuary and many fine fountains. Its heights command views of one of the most lovely campagnas in the world, enclosed by the Appenines, whose lofty summits are covered with snow, while its sides and base are carpeted with verdure; this was lighted in some parts by the rays the sun, and darkened in others by the shadow of a passing cloud; and over the whole, as far as the eye can reach, are spread some of the loveliest villas it is possible to imagine.

of

Leaving here, we drove to the Porto Gallo, the triumphal arch of Francis II., said to have been built after the style of that of Constantine at Rome. It is not so light and beautiful, though perhaps equally magnificent. We next visited the Cacino, a beautiful resort of the Florentines, where is a fine drive of some three miles, and a lovely promenade along the