FEAST FOR DEPARTED SPIRITS.

43

flags of gaudy colors and gay devices, some of silk, others of paper; in the midst of which, overlooking all, stood the representation of a lion, painted green. Baskets of rice were also interspersed, in large abundance, with the more luxurious fare. When the chief priest had finished his pretended devotions, he rose up, and gave a signal, which was well understood by the multitude, for in an instant, on all hands, a rush was made, and pig, goat, cakes, sweetmeats, baskets of rice, and all kinds of dainties, were swept away. In the scramble, every one seized what he could, and carried it off. The flags, figures, &c., in like manner, disappeared, and the court was empty in a few seconds, thronged as it had been with people, and stocked with provisions enough to feast an army. The temporary walls of the stages, forming a considerable inclosure, were then suddenly set on fire, and we were in the area, surrounded by the flames, which presently consumed the slight fabrics, and with them thousands of slips of paper, curiously folded up, being (as we were informed) money, to enable the souls of departed persons to pay their passage into another world; for we found that this magnificence of mummery had been instituted, and was from time to time repeated, for the benefit of those who had died without children, and whose spirits, for want of affectionate relatives to feed them with offerings of the kind which we had seen, were suffering all the misery of starvation. These ample supplies of provisions were, therefore, collected for them, and it was understood that, while the priests were praying, and the victuals were exposed, the spirits of these famished creatures were hovering in the air, and feasting deliciously on the quintessence of every thing eatable that had been set before them. When the priests concluded their necromantic spells of reading and praying, then, it was supposed, the invisible spirit of the meats, fruits, and delicacies had been consumed by the invisible spirits of the deceased; and after that the people were allowed to devour the gross substance. All parties seemed to be highly delighted the priests with what they had done, and the people with what they had got; though it is said that flesh or any other kind of food thus sacrificed, when afterwards eaten, is found to have lost all its nourishing qualities, and become tasteless and insipid. Those, however, who carry off the good things on these occasions, so far as we can hear, are always well satisfied with the spirits' leavings. After this preposterous

44

A PROTESTANT VILLAGE.

ceremony the priests retired into the temple, which they illuminated with numerous candles, and fumigated with sandal-wood within; while, on the outside, they placed two monstrous caricatures of lions, carrying on their backs two warriors more frightful than themselves. These appeared to be engaged in mortal conflict together; but what was intended by the symbols we could not learn. On many poles, that were elevated round the building, were hoisted transparent lanterns, which, by means of strings beneath, were kept in perpetual rotation. These were to light the spirits on their way back from the feast to their homes beyond the grave. Though nothing could be more puerile than the whole spectacle, yet it was affecting to see multitudes of rational beings so duped and given up to idolatry. When, indeed, we call to mind what we have witnessed of the religious, social, and moral, state of the multiform classes of people here—that there are six millions of people, Pagan, Mahommedan, and Christian, in the island-we are ready to exclaim, "Come from the four winds, O breath, and breathe upon these slain, that they may live!"

Aug. 31. We were much pleased with the appearance of a small village, in this neighborhood, of which the inhabitants are a distinct race, their houses remarkably neat, and their grounds exceedingly fruitful. About a century ago the Dutch government abolished popery here, requiring that all Roman Catholics should either quit their religion or the colony. A number of Portuguese families, naturalized to the soil through several generations, caring more for their country than their faith, consented to profess themselves Protestants, and forthwith determined to remain where they were, and to perpetuate the lineage of their ancestors by intermarrying only with each other. To this agreement they have so far at least adhered as to keep up their nationality, but not their language, within the compass of this small, sequestered spot. Though of European origin, and pure descent, their complexions are darker even than those of the Malays and Javanese. A few years ago their number is said to have exceeded five hundred; but the recent ravages of cholera morbus have reduced them to a hundred and thirty-five, men, women, and children. They have a decent chapel for public worship. To this belongs a large bell, which was rung upon our appearance among them, to announce the arrival of strangers, and to summon the people within hearing to

DUTCH, FRENCh, &c. governMENTS IN JAVA. 45

divine service at mid-day. This was performed by a Dutch missionary, lately sent out to them from Holland (who accompanied us), in the Malayan tongue. His discourse, we were glad to be told, was truly evangelical, from the text, "God is love."-1 John iv. 16. About sixty adults and twenty children attended. Mr. Medhurst occasionally visits this interesting community, and preaches to them.

Sept. 1. The natives of Java retain little liking for their Dutch masters of former periods, who exercised such means of fraud and violence to get possession of their island, and rule it arbitrarily, as was the case, more or less, with all European conquerors of continental or insular India. The heads of the present Dutch government, we must testify, deserve far higher esteem than their predecessors; adopting a policy at once humane, just, and liberal, in the administration of the most difficult kind of sovereignty-that over a country which, though subjugated, has a number of native princes, who, with their subjects, are reluctant vassals to the foreigners. The French, during their brief dominion, if existing recollections do them justice, ruled, indeed, with a rod of iron. But their rule was beneficial in some of its results, however rigorous and severe in its general policy. The admirable lines of roads which we lately travelled, and others in different directions, were planned by the skill of their engineers, and for the most part executed under their reckless control. Their commander-in-chief was a Buonaparte in Java, both for the boldness of his projects and the despotic measures which he employed to accomplish them. The roads were made by local requisitions upon the natives and their princes. It has been stated that eight thousand lives were sacrificed, by one means or another, in the progress of these Herculean labors-for such they were to feeble and indolent Orientals.

The character of the English is cherished with the highest respect, by people of every description. Sir Stamford Raffles has left a name and a memorial in Java, which can never perish, but must remain a pattern or a reproach to all that follow him in the government, as they shall laudably imitate or unwisely depart from the principles on which he acted in Java.

Sept. 2. We accompanied Mr. Medhurst to a village where he preaches once a week to a few Mahommedans. About twenty men and boys assembled; none of the other

46

FEEBLE EFFECTS OF RELIGION IN JAVA.

sex are ever allowed to attend. After the service the small congregation, severally, gave us their salaams, or greetings of peace, with profound obsequiousness, putting the palms of their hands together and bowing down nearly to the earth. On inquiry of Mr. Medhurst, concerning the actual and visible success of the missions belonging to our Society in further India, he says that, whatever preparation may have been made by preaching, schools, and Scripture-tracts, there are, in the whole, not more than three or four natives of whom it can be affirmed that they make a credible profession of Christianity. In this island, up to this time, it is doubtful whether any abiding religious impression has been made upon the heart of a Chinese or Mahommedan. The frivolous superstitions of the former, and the blind bigotry of the latter, are alike opposed to the pure, sublime, and humbling doctrines of the cross; while the depraved passions and profligate lives of both classes render the gospel-promises and gospel-threatenings alike unwelcome to those who cleave to their ungodliness and worldly lusts as the elements of existence. Mr. Brockner's testimony is to the same effect. It is one of the traditions of the Budhists of Ceylon, that Brahma, having created the world, retired again into himself, in his heaven of quietism, and left his great work to stand or to fall, as might happen. Seeva, therefore, took possession of it, and commenced his march of devastation-trampling on man and beast, and blasting the soil and its productions. All these he would have soon utterly destroyed, but for the repeated interventions of Veeshnoo, becoming incarnate, as a savior, under various forms, to deliver the subjects of Seeva's fury. The armies of the destroyer, in spite of these interventions, still mightily grew and prevailed, till, in process of time, the air was so full of devils that there was not room to thrust a needle between them. Budhu, then, in compassion to mankind, came down, like a shower of gracious influence, upon this suffocating atmosphere, and so far thinned its pestilent population that there was room for the sun to shine upon the human inhabitants, and the fresh air to blow upon them. Verily, this seems to be a just figure of the state of Java, and probably of all the realms beyond the Ganges, at this hour. There, the firmament might indeed be full of evil fiends, under the prince of the power of the air, in person; while, from heaven, neither clear light, vital warmth, nor healing breath can reach the infatuated multi

PASSAGE TO SINGAPORE.

47

tudes beneath, that tread each other down along the broad way of destruction. Oh, that an influence, more gracious and irresistible than that of Budhu, might descend, to scatter the locust-clouds! Oh, that the Spirit might be poured upon them, from on high, that the wilderness may be a fruitful field, and the fruitful field counted as a forest!

CHAPTER XL.

Passage to Singapore-Circumstances of that Place-Hinderances to the Gospel-Preparation of Sago-The Camphor-dealer-Ludicrous Mistake of a China-lad-Mission-ground-Undecipherable Inscription-Voyage to Macao-Lord's Day-Appearance of the Island— Chinese Pagoda-Statistical Notices-Idol-worshippers-Cave of Camoens-Ancient Nunnery-Crippled Feet of Chinese Ladies-Portuguese Papists-Tea-plantations-Pearl-shell Windows.

Sept. 6. We went on board the brig Fly, a small vessel, in which we had taken our passage to Singapore; but, till the rising of the moon, at two o'clock the following morning, when a breeze sprang up, we were not able to leave Batavia.

Sept. 7. This evening we found ourselves among the Thousand Islands, as some hundreds of these freckles on the face of the ocean are called that spot the vicinity of the Straits of Sunda. We were favorably borne through the perils of this navigation in the course of the night. The cargo of our small vessel being a coarse kind of pepper, called cubebe, which grows only in Java, the odor was so pungent that it was not without great annoyance we bore the confined atmosphere of the cabin, either by day or by night, at meals and sleeping-times. Yet there are worse scents on board even of better ships, to which nothing but usage can inure the olfactory nerves of landsmen. Our accommodations on board are very humble and circumscribed; but we are at home, as we always have been, in every change of station, whether by sea or land, since we first set out upon our voyage and journey of faith-through the vicissitudes of which we have never found cause of complaint, except in ourselves, for our defective gratitude and unprofitable services. Such we acknowledge our best endeavors to have been, even