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AUGUST, 1818.


No. 1.-SUMMER RECESS BALL DRESS. Frock of white crape, Venetian gauze, or fine net, richly embellished at the border with small double Indian roses of a beautiful pink colour, and mingled with leaves of crape and pearls: the body finished in the Oriental style, with short sleeves, which approach nearer to the elbow than formerly, and which are finished by a trimming of broad blond. The head-dress consists of a double wreath of Indian roses, interspersed with the braids of hair that are wound round the summit of the head. White satin shoes and white kid gloves.


Fig. 1. represents transparent bonuets of crape or net, crowned with bouquets of flowers, and trimmed at the edges with broad blond and a cordon of flowers. Fig. 2. represents bonnets of satin or gros de Naples, both white and coloured, crowned with a profusion of lilacs or small double poppies.


received large orders from several of the nobility and gentry there stationed; a brief account of which we shall lay before our fair readers.

Let them observe that nothing is reckoned so elegant for out-door costume as fine muslin pelisses lined with coloured sarsnet; though for evening walks, or returns from evening visits, when the sea breeze imparts a freshness bordering on cold, a pelisse of lightly brocaded silk, with a broad blue satin pelerine cape, is much in favour.

Transparent bonnets are still worn in carriages, either of crape, net, or gauze; but are chiefly devoid of the ornaments of either feathers or flowers. For walking nothing is reckoned so truly elegant as large bonnets of fine Leghorn, trimmed at the edge with fine blond, and the crown encircled by a rich figured ribband, with bow aud ends on one side. The marine bonnet, made of the new cotton manufacture in imitation of willow straw, must not be forgotten: it is elegantly striped with green, representing Chinese grass; and is crowned with a small bouquet of full blown white roses. For the public walks the marine bonnet is expected to be a general favourite; but still more so will be the Duchess of Kent's bonnet; it is formed of stripes of satin and open straw, with a boua beautiful fancy straw, interspersed with quet of white and red double ranunculus: it is in high, though not general estima. tion, having been but just invented at the new and elegant Magazin de Modes, in St. James's-street.



To catch the motley power, Fashion as she flies, we should follow her to Brighton, Cheltenham, Weymouth, and to those rural sceues where royalty and nobility retire during the sultry months of July and August, and where they generally prolong their stay during the rich autumnal season,|| till winter disrobes the trees of their verdure, and the chilling winds cause them to hasten to their warmer dwellings in the metropolis.

From each of the above mentioned places Mrs. Bell, who, from her genuine taste and unremitting attention to please the versatility of that of others, may be deemed one usual, are ornamented to correspond with of our first arbitresses of the toilette, has" the border of the dress. With this is worn

receiving congratulatory visits at home, And here a most superb bridal dress, for has lately been finished. At the border are two flounces of muslin, richly embroidered in open work; between, above, and below each flounce is a letting in of fine lace: the sleeves, closer to the arm than

the Italian cornette of fine net, crowned at the summit with a full wreath of red and white roses entwined with myrtle.

The Bannian, or Indostan deshabille of fine cambric, is a favourite dejeuné costume at the fashionable watering-places; and Oriental robes of plain and worked muslin are much in vogue for half dress. The Virginia dress for evening parties, is among the full dress novelties; it is of sprigged gossamer satin of etherial blue, and light as air; it is ornamented with flounces of broad white blond. The Pavilion concert dress is most elegant; it is of white spotted gauze, richly, though lightly, bordered with three distinct festoon flounces of blond, each flounce headed by a narrow rouleau of peach-coloured satin.

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have been, without being accused of egotism, in my researches after the versatile Goddess. I must maintain, in spite of the well known genius and inventive powers of your country, that if she does sometimes seem behind hand in variety in France, yet that she is so sure a guide to Frenchwomen in the placing a feather or a flower, in the setting of a gown or the fixing a headdress, that you must confess the attention to this minutiæ evidently shews that the chief seat of Fashion's empire is Paris.

Now there is little variety this month in our out-door costume; for the only shield that is thrown over the dresses of our Parisian belles are scarf shawls of Oriental fabric, in morning walks, notwithstanding the warmth of the weather; and for evening, or public promenades, pelerines and handkerchiefs of black lace.

Cabinet of Taste;


By a Parisian Correspondent.

Amongst the head-dresses the Madras turban still continues in favour; we shall ever regard this head-dress both as unbe- When I take you among the hats, howcoming and negligent. The Cheltenham ever, I defy any metropolis to shew so morning cap is far more elegant; it is of great a variety. Several of these head coverfine net and blond, crowned with wildings are ornamented with gauze ribbons,

Cape flowers. The College cap of blue satin, with embossments of white gauze, is one of those whimsical head-dresses which a very pretty face only may be allowed to wear. The cornettes continue, as usual, to be worn at all times in the day, especially by matrons; for the breakfast table they are without flowers, for dinner parties the flowers are profuse, and on evenings the mob part is jerked back, to take off their undress appearance, and some ladies add a small plume of white feathers as an ornament; we cannot forbear saying a very outré one. Many matronly ladies, however, in the country, wear at evening parties small equestrian hats of Chinese gauze or satin, with full plumes of feathers: the Caledonian cap, for sea side excursions, is universally worn.

which are of so light a texture that they have obtained the name of marabout ribbons; they are particularly made use of in ornamenting the edges, at which are two rows quilled of this material. The trimming round the crowns of some hats consists of large folds of gauze, which are placed in a serpentine manner, and between each wave are large full blown roses, half concealed by the gauze; wild poppies are still a favourite ornament on hats. A few Spartan bonnets have made their appearance; they are of a checquered material. Two-thirds of the carriage hats are of white crape or gauze; on straw hats the piony is a favourite flower, though a group of wild single roses is preferred by some ladies; but a bunch of various flowers, consisting of roses, mignionette, jasmine, &c. is most in favour, and a quantity of wheat ears and wild poppies form a very general oruament. The edges of straw hats are unornamented, but it is not unusual to see them adorned with a plume of marabout feathers. The brims of bonnets are bent down a little in front, and are ornamented with a bunch of wild poppies and ears of ripe corn. The gauze hats are trimmed with checquered gauze builloné, in the buffont style, either round the crown or at


I am happy to hear you intend again to visit Paris; you will then see how diligently I have performed the duty you required of

me, and how indefatigable, I may say, Ill the edge; but sometimes the edge is simply

trimmed with a bias fold of gauze, plaited, corset, either grey or blue, ornamented

with four rows of silver buttons: the neck is covered with a kind of tippet of fine scalloped lace; and they wear on their heads a Phrygian cap of cloth of gold, or velvet, richly embroidered with gold.

n large plaits, at a great distance from each other; a large bouquet of geranium is placed on one side of these hats, and many ladies have a quilling of red gauze at the edge, to suit the blossom of the geranium. Pinks are a more favourite ornament on hats than roses; they are generally five in a bunch. The hats and bonnets are getting smaller very fast: bonuets of plaid gauze have lately made their appearance in the carriages of some of our elegantes; they are either of brown, green, and blue, or the real tartan; they are bent down, and extended wide on each side of the face.

Embroidery is but little worn at the borders of gowns; but puckered flounces, and flounces bouillonés, are very general. Printed calico gowns are universally worn in undress, with flounces of the same material; and the short sleeves, which you may think outré in undress, come nearly to the elbow; the arm, however, is always covered with a loose glove: short sleeves are very general here, and the dresses, highly appropriate to summer, are made partially low, and a light ficku is worn underneath; though very many ladies yet continue to wear a pelerine of the same material as the dress. A cambric dress has just been finished for the Duchess of Angouleme; it has one broad flounce of muslin, headed with rich fringe-work, and edged with lace; above this flounce are rows of several tucks.

The sempstress cornette is much worn as a breakfasting costume: it is of muslin, beautifully embroidered, and made like a toque, in front, à-la-diadême: the crown is divided into three quarters, with lace let in between. Dress hats and toques cover the tresses of our married ladies; the younger females go without caps this warm weather, and the hair is brought very forward, and arranged in full curls.



THE merchants' wives, and the superior females of the peasantry, wear a dress peculiar to themselves, and which, to them, is infinitely becoming. The petticoat is of a brown colour, short and full, and ornamented at the border with two rows of ribbon or galon, They wear with this a





THIRTY or thirty-five years ago, ladies wore enormous bouquets placed on one side, and being chiefly green, mingled with various kinds of heath, they appeared like brooms. A celebrated lady of quality conquered this fashion, by having the nosegays of her coachman and footmen, on a grand court-day, made up exactly in the same manner; the little brooms accordingly disappeared, and the bouquets, on court-days, seem the exclusive right of the party-coloured gentry.

Dancing has undergone a total revolution-difficulty is, now, preferred before grace-and, except in that whirling dance, the waltz, the elegant turn of the arms seems wholly neglected. Many young ladies dance a simple country-dance, looking as if they were at a funeral, their whole care being taken up how to vary their steps; and while they sometimes appear almost to fly, their countenances are dull, heavy, and inanimate our very fine dancers, who make all these twists, turns, and varied steps, without the least difficulty, appear like so many Opera dancers. It certainly shews some skill to lift the leg nearly as high as the shoulder, without bending the knee, or destroying the equilibrium of the body by a single stagger; yet it is a posture unpleasant to the eye, and destroys all the natural grace shed so profusely by the hand of Omnipotence over the humán form.

About thirty-five years ago, the ladies wore black velvet collars, or necklaces, very tight round the throat, which were wisely left off, as they were known to occasion apoplexies. Complaints in the stomach and chest are also less frequent since the laying aside tight and stiff stays, and the pernicious use of iron and steel busks: a due attention to those corsets devoid of hard substances, imparting grace

and ease to the female form, can never be too earnestly recommended.

When we treat of those fashions which are pernicious, we are led into a wide field, and it is a subject which calls forth many serious observations to succeed each other, at first unthought of. Since Grecian and gas lamps became in fashion, we find many young people obliged to wear spectacles; and the best and strongest sight is enjoyed by people in the decline of life, who are,




Fudge. Tom resolves to put his master in
disguise; and for this purpose takes charge
of his regimentals, to exchange them for
the first that good luck may send in his
way. Tom is brought in contact with a
worthy butler, who, from the united in-
fluence of liquor and a sultry day, is seek
ing a respite in a deep slumber on the grass.
Tom gets possession of the butler's livery,
and leaves behind him the Major's jacket,
sword, &c. As soon as Timothy awakes,
he feels, very naturally, disconcerted, at the
metamorphosis of his garments. At last
he is reconciled to put them on, and is
accosted by Tom Fudge as Major Pop-lop-
trop, who won a world of honours in the
Peninsular war. The scene where Tom
imposes on the Butler, the belief that he is
not Timothy Flat, but a renowned Major
in the army, produces a good deal of merri-
meut. At length he falls into the hands of
justice in two capacities-as the Major, for
murder in a duel, and as Timothy Flat, for
running away with his master's livery.
is conducted to prison, where he is visited
by the mother of his sweetheart, whe
dresses him up in her own clothes, in order
to effect his escape. This stratagem fails,
and Timothy is brought before the magi
strates for examination, charged with the
murder of a brother officer, and an attempt
to impose himself as a servant. Just as he
is convicted, and about to be brought away,
intelligence arrives, that the officer sup-


A NEW farce has been produced at this Theatre, under the title of Who can I be? Major Pop-lop-trop having wounded a bro-posed to be killed is recovered from his ther officer in a duel, absconds from his regiment, and trusts for his security to the contrivances of a trusty servant, Tom

many of them, in the habit of reading and writing, by candlelight, without glasses.

Lamps of all kinds are hurtful to the eyes, and whatever care may be taken of the purity of the oil, its vapour is extremely pernicious to people of weak nerves; but if fashion finds more elegance in a dull lamp than in a brilliant chandelier with wax candles, the length or shortness of life are but secondary considerations.



THIS Theatre closed on Tuesday, the 30th ult. with The Belle's Stratagem and The Maid and the Magpie; when the following address was delivered by Mr. Henry Johnston:

"LADIES AND GENTLEMEN,This evening being fixed upon to terminate the season of dramatic performances at this Theatre, permit me most respectfully to return you thanks for that share of your patronage you have so kindly condescended to bestow on our zealous endeavours to merit your applause. I can truly assert, that the efforts of the Drury-Lane company, both collectively and individually, have been most liberally honoured with the approbation of a generous and discriminating public-always their most gratifying reward. I now, Ladies and Gentlemen, for myself, and the company in general, beg leave once more to offer our most sincere thanks; and to assure you, although the success of the present has been, from the peculiar circumstances of the times, less, in point of emolument, than that of some preceding seasons, our exertions will not be relaxed during the recess; and we hope, with confidence, to meet our patrons with a prospect of success it will be our most anxious study to deserve at your hands; and we most respectfully take leave till next season."

wound, and has ordered a suspension of all further proceedings. The real Major then throws off his assumed livery, and declares

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