THE first indication that one is nearing Port Elizabeth is the appearance of Mount Coxcomb in the Winterhoek range of mountains. Just seven miles on this side of Algoa Bay is the island of Sainte Croix. This is the one romantic feature about the immediate locality. Here in 1486, just four centuries ago, Bartholomew Diaz erected a stone cross to commemorate his discovery. The Americans are sufficiently advanced to value such a relic were it theirs, but the Bayonians have not yet passed through those stages of prosaic indifference to archæological and antiquarian subjects, which is peculiar to the early life of all young communities. I frankly confess I longed to visit the island with a number of "boys" well armed with pickaxes and spades, so that I might endeavour to discover some remnant of the cross. We next espy the lighthouse with its scattered timber around, telling its own tale not only of wrecked shipping, but of the wrecked hopes of a harbour. It was commenced here some time since, and a little progress had been made, and considerable expense incurred, in prosecuting the work, but just as the Bayonians thought their glory was aripening, there came a heavy storm and nipped their fair promise. After passing the light "DRAW IT MILD, LITTLE BESS." 231 house, a few minutes suffice to bring us in full view of the town, of which my first impressions were by no means pleasing. No trees-no bush even, sand everywhere, and parched grass. It resembles Cape Town, in so far, that it has a square and rectangular appearance, but it is much more prim and more uniform than the metropolis, and one cannot help being reminded, upon looking at it, of those towns one used to delight in building in one's childhood, with the wooden squares and bricks, which form so attractive an adjunct to the nursery. Port Elizabeth is built upon an inclined plane, inclined of course towards the sea. Its rapid development from small beginnings, would be marvellous in any colony, and in such a colony as South Africa it is practically phenomenal. It cannot well be disputed that it owes this advance, in a very large measure indeed, not only to the superlative energy and "go" of the early English settlers, but perhaps, even still more to the absence of the Dutch Africander element which has prevented Cape Town from making commensurate strides. The horse by which the colonists have crossed the river, has been WOOL. About this it may be well to note that this great sheep-farming industry was developed almost entirely by men little accustomed to such pursuits. I do not fear, or rather, I do not consider, that Port Elizabeth will ever oust Cape Town from its pre-eminent position — ardent Easterns notwithstanding. A much healthier tone seems to be growing up between the two provinces. It is hoped that the recent troubles between the Dutch and English will not arrest the growth of this rapprochement. An era of rapid progress is, I believe, at hand for both towns, in which case the citizens of the one place, no less than the other, will be too much occupied with their schemes of mutual advancement, to think of old recriminations and jealousies. At present there is an immense amount of heartburning and angry smouldering animosity. But as to Port Elizabeth, to say the truth, a combination of adverse circumstances have somewhat shelved this promising seaport, and retarded its more recent progress. Still when we consider that but sixty years have elapsed since a little band of immigrants 5,000 strong landed on the barren shores of Algoa Bay, we are ready at once to for give a little vain-gloriousness on the part of the Easterns, for truly they have done wonders. The account of the sufferings and hardships of these early pioneers supplies one of the most stirring pages in colonial history. It is true that they set out from England under circumstances far more encouraging and advantageous than as a rule are vouchsafed to colonists. The year 1820 was one of great commercial depression and consequent distress in England, and it occurred to Parliament to relieve this suffering in a really sensible manner. The sum of £50,000 was voted from imperial resources to cover the expense of transporting certain families from England to Africa. Each family received a freehold grant of land of 100 acres, and the descendants of these families have made the Eastern Province what it is. Three times since its seminal settlement the colonists have undergone the dangers and miseries of Kaffir invasions, invasions too of no little importance, demanding enormous sacrifices to repel them. The rapid recovery of the province after each of these disasters is in itself a substantial proof of the indomitable pluck and irrepressibility of the Anglo-Saxon race in general, and of these determined men in particular. With astonishing energy the Bayonians have managed to establish a large town of well-paved and well-lighted streets. There are enormous stone-built stores assimilating in their main feature to those of Queen Victoria and Southwark Streets; public buildings, numberless churches, a College, and a Council Chamber, which puts to shame our Mansion House, an easy victory indeed, it will be said, and that I cannot gainsay. The inhabitants of Port Elizabeth number about 20,000 souls. A railway is in progress via Graff Reynet and Uitenhage to Richmond. Uitenhage is situated about 20 miles from the Bay. It is a very pretty and popular little town, and, as it enjoys the advantage of possessing plenty of water, the industry of woolwashing has become an important one there. Wool, as everybody knows, has been the making of Port Elizabeth, and the townsfolk are jubilant or down-hearted in accordance with the quotations of the woollen market at home. The success of Port Elizabeth has been so great that, for my part, I consider it to be the duty and true policy of the government to relieve much misery at home, and build up healthy limbs of the Empire abroad, by establishing similar settlements on a larger scale and on more scientific principles, in other parts of the African Continent. Mossel Bay, or rather the town of Aliwal South, is the very personification of a dead and alive place. The harbour there is considered to hold the fourth rank among colonial havens. There is also a jetty. The townsfolk, moreover, are not wanting in ambition. I learn, from the Mossel Bay Advertiser, that great things are projected, and among others an ornamental park. I hope that a decent hotel will be included in these improvements; for I remember having to act as my own barman and waiter, at the only tavern, with any pretention to respectability, the place, at that time, possessed. The bar at Port Alfred (the Cowie) has sadly retarded the commercial and social progress of that town. The same may be said of East London, which is, nevertheless, a rising place. It is a bald and uninteresting looking seaport; although these unattractive characteristics, it must be allowed, are relieved in no small degree, by the precipitous and umbrageous shores of the Buffalo River, on which it is situated. CHAPTER XXXII. DURBAN. 66 SANITAS SANITATIS, OMNIA SANITAS." "Ye children of the sea-kings, who are building up this town, Natal Mercury, 3rd February, 1883. THESE first words might be fitly emblazoned upon the banner of the seaport of Natal, if figures are to be trusted. Figures certainly seem to substantiate its claim to be considered the healthiest 1000. seaport in the world. The death rate averages under 14 per When we take into consideration the composite character of the population, this healthfulness appears all the more remarkable. Grovelling and dirty coolies, St. Helena women of dubious repute, Chinese, and Mauritians, Kaffirs and Tongas, in addition to the English population, which latter element has more than doubled itself since 1858. But nevertheless there is no poverty as yet; that is to say, no cases of urgent want, and this fact combined with a very healthful situation is sufficient to account for much. Disappointingly slow as the progress of Durban appears to perfervid Natalians, and to impatient well-wishers of the town, it has nevertheless, been remarkable. There are, of course, few towns in South Africa which have made such mushroom strides as have the cities of Australia and America, but this fact is traceable to purely natural causes, of which I have made bold already to remind my readers. Still, it is surely something to be proud of, |