"Turn where we may, said I, we cannot err
In this delicious region.-Cultured slopes,
Wild tracts of forest-ground, and scattered groves,
And mountains bare-or clothed with ancient woods,
Surrounded us; and, as we held our way

Along the level of the grassy flood,

They ceased not to surround us; change of place,
From kindred features diversely combined,

Producing change of beauty ever new."

On the whole, this water generally stands confessed the most beautiful and grandest of all, affording the greatest variety of views, in which, however, the sublime unquestionably preponderates.

In advancing up Ulles Water, we should recommend the south or Westmoreland side of the shore to be taken as far as How Town, where a boat should be in readiness to carry you across to Old Church, Watermillock, inasmuch as the views are incomparably finer, both with regard to the foregrounds and the combinations of the distance. This side cannot be pursued to Patterdale, but by pedestrians, who, after leaving How Town, penetrate into Martindale, a sequestered spot shut out from the lake; its one-arched bridge, chapel with its low roof and simple bell gable, and picturesque yew tree, are romantic objects. At the head of this dale, where it divides into two grains, is a hunting-box of the Hasell's. The want of wood here gives interest to the few scattered houses which are embowered in sycamore. A green path leads to the top of the western ridge, whence there is a view of the last reach of Ulles Water, bordered by black steeps the narrow grassy vale of Bordale immediately beneath-Penrith beyond-and Cross Fell in the extreme verge of the horizon. In passing down to Patterdale, several beautiful views

are presented of that dale, and of Brother Water, with the heights of Kirkstone.

The carriage road leads from Pooley Bridge, on the Cumberland side, along the first reach, which is, comparatively speaking, tame, having Soulby Fell, a smooth green hill, on the right. Near the pleasant village of Watermillock, stood the old church, in a very sequestered bay; the old church-yard yew tree still survives. The new church is built further up the hill side, and was consecrated by Osbaldistone, Bishop of Carlisle, on his way to crown Elizabeth. At the extremity of the church promontory stands Hallsteads, the modern residence of J. Marshall, Esq. Immediately after passing this, on the left, you enter into the grounds of Gowbarrow Hall; and then the Park, in which is situated Lyulph's Tower, a rude hunting seat of the Duke of Norfolk, that exhibits one of the finest views on the lake. The lover of nature may linger here for hours. A powerful brook dashes through rocks hung with a happy mixture of natural wood, beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, hollies, and honeysuckles; and fallow deer glancing and bounding through the thickets and over the lawns. The attractions of the retired views, and the ever-varying foregrounds, which heighten the beauties of the water, are not to be described.

"Ah! that such beauty, varying in the light
Of living nature, cannot be pourtrayed
By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill;
But is the property of him alone

Who hath beheld it, noted it with care,
And in his mind recorded it with love."

The explorer of nature's hidden charms must here leave the road, and follow up the gill above named, till he arrives at Airey Force, where the stream falls eighty feet between two rugged cheeks of rock,

A wooden bridge crosses the top of the fall. After it has rested for a moment in the basin that receives it, making a bend, it rushes down a lower steep, at the foot of which another romantic bridge is thrown over the agitated waters. Altogether the scene is incomparably grand. After reluctantly leaving the enclosed park, the scenery still continues most fascinating. The road that passes down the hill on the right, is the direct carriage route from Keswick, through Matterdale, a wild and interesting valley. The horse-road from Keswick unites with this at Dockwray, through which hamlet, after springing out of Dowthwaite Head, runs the stream that, in its progress through Gowbarrow Park, forms the noble fall of Airey Force. On the hill top there is a magnificent view of the two upper reaches of the lake, having on the left, Silvery Point and Place Fell, the steeps of Glenridden, with Stybarrow Crags and Patterdale Hall; and beyond, the mountains of Graysdale and Hartshope, Scandale Fell, and St. Sunday Crag. Proceeding onwards, on the right, lurking in a recess, is Glencoin, a farm house belonging to the Duke of Norfolk, in a rich cultivated bottom, with high and splendidly-wooded mountains in the back

ground the stream here divides the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland. Hence the road ascends and is cut through the crags of Stybarrow, from which there is a Claude-like view towards the foot of the water. On a grassy promontory stands Glenridden, the seat of the Rev. H. Askew; the dale opening upwards to the right, is adorned with fertile fields, cottages, and natural groves, that agreeably unite with the view of Ulles Water. The pedestrian may follow up its stream, along bold water-breaks and falls, to a silent tarn in the recesses of Helvellyn.

From the summit of whose craggy mound

The perching eagle oft is heard to cry,

Or on resounding wings to shoot athwart the sky."

On the right is Patterdale Hall, the former residence of the Kings of Patterdale, but now belonging to William Marshall, Esq. The stream that rushes down across the road, flows out of Graysdale Tarn, through a green moist dale, with one single house embosomed in sycamores.

Patterdale Chapel stands on one side of the road, with scarcely a single tombstone in its burial ground, its noble tree, the solemn yew, adding dignity even to the hallowed ground.

"These dalesmen trust

The lingering gleam of their departed lives
To oral records and the silent heart;

Depository faithful, and more kind

Than fondest epitaphs: for, if that fail,
What boots the sculptur'd tomb?"

A little further is the excellent inn, where every accommodation may be had for viewing this sublime

nucleus of dales, and where a day or two should be spent for such a purpose. The water should be navigated, the recesses of the dales explored, and Helvellyn ascended. No one, not even the transitory visitor, should omit to walk to Blowick, which may be done while dinner is preparing. It has still its land-locked bays-its rocky promontories, though deprived of all its wood, and thus displaying all its charms at once, instead of unfolding them in delightful succession.

Leaving the inn, we shall proceed up the dale. On the right is Deepdale, which is terminated by a cove, a craggy and gloomy abyss, with precipitous sides, the receptacle of the snows of Fairfield. On the left, the road leads to Low Hartshope, a romantic village, through which flows the stream from Hays Water.

BROTHER WATER.

At Cowbridge is the outlet of this pretty sheet of water, which is situated in a fertile vale, clothed with wood. On its western side, near the head, stands the ancient and lowly Hall of Hartshope. This water may be readily circumambulated, and the views around it are sublime. It is fed by Kirkstone Beck, and that which rises under Dove Crag, which issues from a cove richly decorated with native wood; from this recess there is a view backwards on the gleaming surface of Brother Water, and forwards to the precipitous sides and lofty ridges of Dove Crag.

The Tourist may proceed over the rocky pass of Kirkstone to Ambleside, or return to Penrith.