CONVERSATIONS

ON

RELIGION.

LORD BYRON arrived on the 6th of August, 1823, at Argostoli, the principal town of the island of Cephalonia. He came in the brig Hercules, which he had freighted to convey himself, his friends, and some stores for the use of the Greeks, in their struggle for liberty and independence. Count Gamba, an Italian nobleman, Mr. Hamilton Brown, and Mr. Trelawney, two English gentlemen, and Dr. Bruno, a young Italian physician, accompanied his lordship. Before proceeding to the continent, his lordship determined to remain a short time in one of the Ionian islands, in order to procure correct information with regard to the parties and factions, by which the continent was distracted, so as to enable him to form those plans which seemed most likely to heal all divisions, and promote the true interests of Greece. With this view he selected the island of Cephalonia,

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partly on account of its vicinity to the continent, but chiefly, as it was understood, from having heard that the governor was a man of an enlightened mind, and favourable to the general cause of liberty and independence.

His lordship continued on board the ship in the harbour for four weeks; but having landed his horses, he took an airing every evening on horseback, attended by some of his companions. He made an excursion to visit Ithaca, a neighbouring island, separated from Cephalonia by a strait about two miles in breadth. He first despatched Mr. Hamilton Brown, and shortly afterwards Mr. Trelawney, to the continent, to procure accurate information with regard to the state of affairs in Greece, as he could more safely rely on them, than on the different Greek leaders, most of whom wrote to him, each endeavouring to persuade his lordship to join his party. Finding it necessary to wait longer than he at first expected, he paid off the vessel, landed his stores, and took a residence for himself, Count Gamba, and Dr. Bruno, at Metaxata, a pleasant and healthy village about four miles and a half from Argostoli. He continued here till the 27th of December, when he embarked for Missolonghi.

His arrival at Argostoli excited a great sensation among the Greeks and the English. The former were eager to behold a wealthy English nobleman, and a celebrated poet, (of whose fame most of them had heard much, while many were acquainted with part of his writings,) on his way to join their countrymen, to add the whole weight of his name, influence, talents and fortune to the cause of freedom. The latter felt a still greater curiosity to behold a countryman not less interesting by his unrivalled talents, than by that mystery and awe thrown over his character by his faults and misfortunes; but, above all, by the daily rumours of his misanthropy, profligacy, and infidelity, and by the warfare which he had so long carried on against many of the most distinguished literary characters, as well as against the government and religion of his native country. He was viewed by all as an object of wonder and astonishment; and as one whose talents, character, and sentiments separated him, as it were, from the rest of mankind. All were alike anxious to view his person and watch his proceedings, and none but a spectator of the scene could conceive the vague and unrestrained wonder which he occasioned. It was generally supposed, that his lordship would

shun his countrymen, as he had done in Italy; and he,—as was afterwards ascertained,―apprehended that they would, in like manner, shuu him; not only because of the censures, reproaches, and calumnies against him, with which, about this time, most of the papers and periodical publications were filled, rendering him, as he often felt, an object of detestation and abhorrence; but also, because of the delicacy which they might feel as subjects of a neutral government, in showing any attention to one who was going to take an active part in what was legally considered a rebellion.

Instructions having arrived from the superior authorities, to receive his lordship with the respect and courtesy due to his rank, Colonel D., who commanded in the absence of the governor, went on board, and was received with that affability and politeness, which so much distinguished his lordship.

The first invitation which his lordship accepted, was to an evening party at the Honourable Colonel D.'s. A friend of mine, S., who was present, was delighted with the affability and refinement of his lordship's manners; and with the ease, simplicity, and cheerfulness with which he conversed on common topics; so different from

the idea which he had formed of his lordship's character.

The officers of the garrison, having invited him to dine, did everything they could to mark their respect and admiration for his rank and talents. On his health being drunk, he expressed his great satisfaction at being in the society of his countrymen, and of seeing so many of them together. He added, that he felt so much the honour they had done him, that he was afraid he could not express his sense of the obligation as he ought, having been so long in the practice of speaking a foreign language, that he could not convey his sentiments in adequate terms in his native tongue. He was much pleased when he had made his short speech, and repeatedly asked Colonel D. if he had done well, and if he had acquitted himself properly, as he was so little, he said, in the practice of public speaking.

Hitherto I had seen his lordship only on horseback, as he took his evening ride with his friends; and while I often listened to the details of his sayings and actions, which formed the subject of general conversation, and which, for the most part, were only interesting because they were said or done by Lord Byron, I had no anti