"nothing changes in the East." The natural features and productions of these regions are essentially the same after the revolutions of ages; and the occupations, modes of living, manners, and dispositions of the Fellah, the Bedouin, and the modern Syrian, offer so many points of striking resemblance to those of the patriarchs and their Jewish descendants, as would, in the absence of historical information on the subject, lead to the belief of their common origin. To introduce the reader to a familiar and intimate acquaintance with these objects, is little less than to naturalize him in the Holy Land, and to place him on a noble vantage-ground for more fully understanding God's Word. Travellers in the East feel and acknowledge the inspiration of the scenes that surround them, and yield up their last doubt to the demonstrations everywhere addressed to their senses. I cannot think it even possible for any man of intelligence and observing habits to cross the Desert and dwell a week in Jerusalem, without being fully satisfied, on the evidence thus obtained, of the authenticity of the Holy Scriptures, whatever he may resolve to think of their inspiration. A measure of this convincing influence may reasonably be expected to attend the perusal of a faithful account of such objects and scenes by an eyewitness; and it is with a hope of contributing in some humble degree to the better understanding and higher appreciation of the Divine Oracles, that these pages are now offered to the public. Considerations of a less elevated character may have operated unperceived, but this, I am sure, has been my controlling motive. A number of years devoted to the Christian ministry, and to the instruction of youth in several different states, have given me a pretty extensive acquaintance with the religious community of this country; and sev

eral friends, for whose opinions I entertain the highest respect, have induced me to hope that this journal of my Eastern tour may be favourably received by many to whom I have become known, personally or by reputation, in these interesting relations. They think a way may thus be opened for the introduction of useful knowledge into many families; that a considerable circle of youth may be reached by salutary influences; and that a book on such subjects, and recommended by such recollections, may perhaps be made welcome in several libraries of Bible-classes and Sabbath-schools. This would, indeed, be a good reward of my labours. It would quite satisfy my highest ambition if the scanty fruits of a season of weakness and affliction might thus be consecrated to interests dear, above all others, to my heart.

The reader will not infer, from the strain of these remarks, that this professes to be a religious work. It is merely a book of travels that is offered to his perusal, embracing only the usual topics of such a performance; a plain description of the objects, and a true record of the incidents, which I met with in my journey. As such it must accomplish, if it accomplish at all, the good to which it is devoutly consecrated in my hopes and prayers.

It is, perhaps, necessary to subjoin a word of explanation in reference to the delay which has occurred in the publication. On the night of the day of my arrival in the United States, I had a return of a malignant disease contracted among the fens of the Danube. For more than a year afterward I was wholly disabled for literary as well as other pursuits; the manuscript journal of my tour, meantime, remaining undisturbed in my portfolio. I had, indeed, quite abandoned the idea of publishing, when, at the request of my friend, the Rev. Dr. Peck, I undertook

to revise a few pages for the religious periodical published under his able supervision. This was in the end of November, 1841. Increasing health enabled me to prosecute this labour with less difficulty than I had anticipated, and I returned to my original intention of preparing my entire journal for the press. From that time to the completion of my task, about the same period of the ensuing year, I was able, with only a few interruptions, to devote three or four hours daily to this agreeable occupation.

The reader will probably infer from the first paragraph of this introduction, what I ought, perhaps, to advise him of more directly, that I was induced to leave my native country, and, finally, to extend my tour to the Levant, by other motives than those of mere literary curiosity. A long residence in the Southern States, and arduous professional duties, persevered in when my health was no longer adequate to the task of performing them, had quite undermined my constitution, and left no hope of recovery but in absolute repose from all labour and responsibility. It was with the design of securing this object more effectually than could be done amid the associations and excitements of home, that, in the spring of 1837, I sailed for Havre, broken and exhausted by protracted sickness, and with only the faintest prospect of ever returning to look again upon the land of my birth. I remained more than a year in Paris, deriving no benefit from the best medical advice which that capital afforded, and hovering continually upon the borders of the grave. I was accompanied, however, by a beloved and honoured wife, herself in the vigour and bloom of health, and every way fitted to be the minister of the richest earthly blessings which it has pleased God to confer upon me. Rarely endowed with the talent of doing good and communica

PREFACE.

xiii ting happiness, and a bright example of the conjugal virtues-patient, indefatigable, inventive; full of cheerfulness and hope, and courage, and faith, she was the angel of my sick-room, who watched by my restless pillow day and night during these dreary months, anticipating and satisfying the wants of my situation with a skill and untiring assiduity which strong affection alone can inspire and sustain!

It is not surprising, perhaps, that under the Divine blessing upon auspices so benign, I passed successfully through this trying crisis.

The ensuing autumn, and the winter of 1838-39, were spent in a visit to London, a journey through Belgium and France, and a residence of three months in Rome, all rendered doubly delightful by the sense of returning health, and by the presence, and ardent and intelligent participation of one to whom I was so much indebted for this unspeakable blessing. We proceeded to the South of Italy in the end of March, where my dear wife was almost immediately seized with a wasting disease, which proved fatal on the eighth day of May. I buried her in a small Protestant cemetery in the romantic environs of Naples, about a mile from the city. It was under the pressure of this overwhelming calamity that I first resolved on visiting the East, chiefly with the hope of finding, in the vicissitudes of travel, and in communing with scenes consecrated by great events, some relief from painful reminiscences, which I felt would be rather aggravated than assuaged by an early return to the society of mourning relatives. It was well for me, I think, that I devoted myself to this pilgrimage, even though the reader shall derive neither amusement nor instruction from the memorials of it which are spread before him in

these pages. I confide in his indulgence of this overflowing of sorrowful recollections. In inviting him to accompany me in my wanderings, I thought he might feel some interest in knowing why I went abroad, and I could not refrain, on so fit an occasion, from offering a tribute of affection to the memory of an endeared friend, whose lovely image has everywhere come up afresh before me, to sadden my return to the broken social and religious circles once adorned by her virtues and accomplishments.

The accompanying map has been prepared by Mr. Catherwood, an eminent artist, already well known to the American public, who has himself travelled over a large part of the route embraced in this work. The illustrations are also from his original designs, with the exception of two kindly furnished me by Mr. Formsby, an English gentleman and amateur artist, my fellow-traveller through the Desert, and one borrowed from Laborde.

I take this occasion for expressing my devout gratitude to God, who so graciously guided and protected me in my journeys by sea and land, who has more recently given me strength for this hasty preparation of my materials to meet the public eye, and, beyond all my expectations, has restored me again to an interesting field of active, and, as I hope, useful employment.

STEPHEN OLIN.

Wesleyan University, Nov. 1843,