26

ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA.

CHAPTER III.

Site and Remains of the Ancient City.-Fragments and Accumulations.Ancient Arches.-Reservoirs.-Present Supply of Water.-Excavations and their Object.-Monuments.-Pompey's Pillar: its Shaft and Pedestal.-Ambition of Visiters.-Interference of the Government.-Misnomer. Cleopatra's Needle. - Dimensions. - Preservation. - The Catacombs.-Probable Origin.-Cleopatra's Baths.-Funeral Processions.Public Mourners.-Their Grief.-Conjugal Discipline.-Opinions of an Arab.-Visit to the Palace.-View of the Pacha.-Audience-room.Dress and Person of Mohammed Ali.-His Ministers and other high officers.-Their Origin and Career.-A purchase of Circassian Boys.

THE present city of Alexandria occupies a small part only of the site of the ancient, the ruins of which extend to a great distance south and east of the modern town. The traveller to Rosetta is in the midst of them for nearly four miles. They consist of hillocks and mounds, rising in some instances thirty or even fifty feet above the original surface, formed of the rubbish of ancient buildings, and increased by accumulations of sand. At the first view they seem to be only sandbanks, gradually formed from the sea and the desert. Fragments of stone, however, of plaster and terracotta, are seen even upon the surface, and extensive remains of stone and brick structures are soon found by excavations. These seem not to be made for any other purpose than to obtain materials for new constructions. These ancient stones, which are calcareous, are also burned into lime. A very large proportion of the existing houses and walls have evidently been built out of these ruins. The site of the ancient city was very little elevated above the level of the sea. The houses were built upon arches of brick, many of which remain entire, and are found at the depth of from twenty-five to thirty feet. These arches answered the double purpose of foundations for houses and reservoirs for the water of the Nile, which was conducted

into them in the time of the inundation. They contained a year's supply for all the wants of the city. Many ancient cisterns are still employed for the same purpose. The water, however, no longer flows into them through the old aqueducts, which have all been choked with rubbish or destroyed. It is brought from the canal on the backs of camels, at the season of the inundation, when the reservoirs are filled for the year, and it is drawn out for use by wells sunk through the rubbish.

The excavations for building materials seem at present to be carried on to a great extent, induced by the rather extensive improvements now in progress. Fine blocks of marble are frequently discovered, and many fragments of noble granite pillars are seen lying on the surface or half buried in the rubbish, which have been brought to light by these random researches. A more systematic and scientific examination would unquestionably lead to valuable discoveries. Perhaps it would throw new light upon the history of the arts in Egypt and the world. Such investigations, however, are not to be expected under the present government, which is incapable of acting upon the high motives that animate the scholar and antiquary in their pursuits.

Of all the splendid monuments which are known to have adorned ancient Alexandria, only a few remain. Of these, Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle are the most important, and for their preservation we are indebted to their own solidity and massiveness, which have enabled them to resist the Vandalism of barbarians, and the cupidity of learned and civilized Europe.

The shaft of Pompey's Pillar, which consists of a single piece of red granite, is 73 feet in length by 27 feet 8 inches in circumference. The entire height of the monument, including pedestal and capital, is 98 feet 9 inches. The diameter of the top of the capital is 16 feet 6 inches.* The * Wilkinson's Topography of Thebes, p. 289.

28

POMPEY'S PILlar.

pedestal is about 15 feet square by 12 in height. The capital is of a grayish stone, apparently of bad workmanship, and a good deal corroded by time. The pillar itself, with the exception of some injury near the base, retains its primitive integrity. The pedestal consists of several sorts of stone, the largest blocks of which are of the same kind of red granite with the shaft. It has been clumsily repaired, and deformed with a daubing of mortar to stop the interstices between the stones. It has a ruinous appearance, and at first sight some wonder is felt that it is able to support the immense weight of the pillar.

This beautiful monument is much defaced by the names of travellers inscribed upon it, mostly in a very clumsy manner, with paints of all hues. Its great elevation, one would think, should have secured the upper portions of it from these memorials of low ambition; but a cord, it seems, was sent over the top attached to a flying kite, by which a ladder of ropes was raised, that gave access to these aspiring visiters. It was a fashion with many travellers to write letters to their friends from this lofty pinnacle, and epistles are seen in several books dated on the top of Pompey's Pillar. Others held convivial parties there, consisting of ladies as well as gentlemen. Some inconveniences which grew out of this practice led the government to prohibit all persons from ascending to the top of the monument. Every one who sees this stupendous mass of stone in its present position, inquires how it was brought from the distant quarry and planted upon its pedestal. Such questions often occur in viewing the monuments of this peculiar country. They have never been satisfactorily answered. This should be called Diocletian's Pillar, having been reared in honour of that emperor.

Cleopatra's Needle is an obelisk of the same species of red granite with Pompey's Pillar, and doubtless from the same quarry at Syene. This monument is ascribed to