16

VOYAGE TO EGYPT.

lish clergyman, and is, we were informed, in a flourishing condition.

We left Syra after a delay of more than two days. Our direction was eastward for twenty-five or thirty miles, when we turned towards the south, and sailed through the channel that separates the islands of Naxia and Paros. These islands, as well as Syra, Andros, Tenos, Mycone, and the multitude of smaller ones which we passed in our voyage from Athens to Egypt, present nothing to the eye but bare precipitous rocks, which rise abruptly out of the sea, and shoot up into mountains of considerable elevation. They, however, imbosom many small valleys, which are well peopled, and fertile in currants, vines, and the other agricultural products of Greece. This information I derived from Mr. Perdicaris, United States consul at Athens, an intelligent Greek gentleman, who was our fellow-passenger, and who spent the previous summer in the island of Andros. The climate is salubrious, and it is resorted to for health, during the warm season, from Athens and other parts of Continental Greece.

Our voyage from Syra to Alexandria was truly delightful. The weather was fine, the sea calm and unruffled. The Lycurgus was a boat of the first class, with elegant and ample accommodations. These steamers are regular ships of war in the French navy, and have the advantage of the good order and exact discipline for which the public vessels of this nation are now distinguished, and which, I apprehend, in case of another conflict with a maritime power, would be found to give to this branch of the national force of France an efficiency for which it has not been greatly distinguished in its disastrous conflicts with the navy of Great Britain.

The Lycurgus mounted two large and four smaller guns, and had a complement of perhaps thrrty men, a captaincommandant, a first, second, and third lieutenant, a sur geon, &c.

A slight incident occurred early in the voyage, characteristic of the French, which did not lead us to expect all the pleasure that we afterward realized. In returning on board after our reconnoisance of Syra, the small boat from which we were climbing up the sides of the Lycurgus was tossed about by the agitation of the waves, which beat against the side of the ship with considerable violence, and made our transit difficult as well as hazardous. This produced some hurry and flutter of spirits, and we hastened upon deck without noticing the respectful salutations of the officers and crew, with which, as we soon learned, it is customary to greet gentlemen and ladies coming on board. This was certainly a little awkward, but the cause of the oversight was apparent enough. The captain followed us to the cabin, and, with a gravity worthy of a more serious occasion, made us acquainted with the well-established custom. We apologized in due form, and were agreeably disappointed in finding him, in all our subsequent acquaintance, a gentleman of easy and unaffected dignity, and amiable deportment. I never made a more agreeable voyage; and I shall long remember the good ship Lycurgus and her gentlemanly commander with peculiar pleasure. I had previously made a number of voyages upon the Mediterranean, all of which were memorable for bad weather, seasickness, and indifferent fare and accommodations. Here everything was propitious. The deep blue sky was not obscured by a single cloud, day or night; and the temperature was delightfully soft and agreeable. It was, indeed, a luxury to breathe the air, and promenade the clean, broad deck, which was as steady as a parlour. Our fare was but too good; and the cabin, berths, staterooms, and beds perfectly fresh and clean. I afterward heard many complaints, chiefly from English travellers, of the French steamboats in the Levant, and of the Lycurgus in particular. The officers were said to be rude and overbearing, the servants in

B

18

VIEW OF ALEXANDRIA.

attentive, the fare bad, the beds and table dirty and ill kept. All of this is so much at variance with my own experience, that I am compelled to make some allowance for national prejudices, which, after twenty-five years of peace and friendly intercourse, still exist in the minds of many Englishmen to such an extent as to render them quite blind to all the evidences of civilization and good-breeding that may chance to be exhibited by their French neighbours. They are especially slow to perceive that Frenchmen sometimes. practise the virtues of cleanliness and good cookery.

CHAPTER II.

First View of Alexandria.-Description of its Site.-The Pharos.-Ras el Tyn.-The New Harbour.-The Old Harbour.-Progress of liberal Opinions.-The Pacha's Palaces.-Windmills.-Pompey's Pillar.-Turco-Egyptian Fleet.-The Crescent.-Instructive Moral.-The Landing.— First Greeting of the Donkey Boys. - Streets. - Bazar.-Mohammedan Shops and Tradesmen.-Aspect of the Crowd.-Merchandise.-Style of Building.-Houses of the Poor.-The Frank Quarter.-Ibrahim Pacha.-Public Edifices.-Arsenals, Warehouses, &c.-Villas.-Population of Alexandria.-Trade.-Revival of Prosperity.-Canal.-Advantages of its Position.-Walls of the City.-Fortifications.

I ROSE very early on the morning of the 25th of December, and found the Lycurgus at rest off Alexandria, waiting for daylight to enter the harbour. We were in Africa. The city of Alexander and the Ptolemies, renowned through so many ages for its commerce and wealth, its arts and literature, rose before us at the distance of less than one mile; and the low, sandy shore of Egypt, the maritime border of the Delta, stretched out to the right and left till its dim outline was lost in the distant horizon.

The present city of Alexandria is built chiefly upon a

neck of land extending into the sea to the peninsula or long bank of sand which lies nearly parallel with the shore, distant half a mile or more, and forms the two ports. The celebrated Pharos of the age of the Ptolemies was situated near the eastern termination of this peninsula. Its site is occupied by a Turkish fort, which commands the entrance to the old port, east of the city. At the western extremity of the peninsula is Ras el Tyn, the Cape of Figs, around which is the winding and difficult passage that leads into the new port. This noble harbour, which is capacious and secure at all seasons, and possesses sufficient depth of water for the largest ships, is at present almost exclusively used. The old harbour is much exposed in bad weather, and only admits the smallest class of vessels. Before the reign of the present pacha, the ships of all Christian nations were confined to this dangerous roadstead, and none but the faithful were allowed ingress into the western port. This humiliating distinction is now abolished.

We entered the harbour a little after sunrise. The splendid new palace, or, rather, palaces of Mohammed Ali, were on our left upon the Ras el Tyn. They consist of the residence proper of the pacha, a separate edifice for his harem, and a third, designed, it is said, for the entertainment of strangers of high birth or office who may visit Egypt. On our right the shore was covered with windmills, to the number of perhaps 150 or 200. They are circular buildings, constructed of white stone, and employed by the pacha, who built them, for manufacturing flour for the army and navy, and other public establishments. From their position they are striking objects. Such a city of windmills is nowhere else to be seen, except at Lille, where 400 are employed in making oil. Pompey's Pillar is a mile or more from the beach, but in approaching the harbour it seems to stand among these windmills. Farther out at sea it is a noted landmark for sailors, towering high

20

TURCO-EGYPTIAN FLEET.

above all other objects. We anchored nearly half a mile from the city, and in going ashore in a small boat, passed through the Turkish fleet, recently surrendered to the Pacha of Egypt by the stupendous treachery of the Ottoman admiral. The Egyptian fleet was moored in company with the Turkish, though occupying an outer position, apparently with a view to greater security, and to prevent the possible loss of a prize so noble in itself, though so basely won. The whole consisted of not less than sixty vessels of war. Twenty were ships of the line, including several of 140 and 120 guns, and about as many were large frigates. They were manned by nearly 40,000 sailors: the Turkish ships, it is said, mostly by Greeks; the Egyptian by sable Nubians. The decks appeared crowded with men, the small boats were darting in all directions, and nothing could be more lively and picturesque than this martial assemblage of various dialects, colours, and costumes. Nearly all the ships appeared to be new, and, to an unprofessional eye, none could be of more beautiful architecture or in finer condition. The Egyptian fleet has been constructed under the superintendence of French engineers; the Turkish ships by Mr. Rhodes, a citizen of the United States. These have been pronounced by the most competent judges to be unsurpassed by any specimens of naval architecture in existence. Such is the opinion expressed by Commodore Porter. I saw here, for the first time, the Turkish crescent, so long the terror of Europe, and the successful antagonist of the Cross upon so many bloody fields. I saw it now, the dishonoured flag of a fallen empire, ignominiously betrayed into the hands of a rebellious vassal. The sight was instructive: it was historical and prophetic. The combined fleet, which constituted the grandest display of maritime power I have anywhere seen, so fully engaged my attention that I bestowed little observation upon other objects; but I do not think there were many merchant vessels in the harbour.