ΤΗΕ ΟΧΟΝΙΑ Ν

IN

THELEMARKEN;

OR,

NOTES OF TRAVEL IN SOUTH-WESTERN NORWAY

IN THE SUMMERS OF 1856 AND 1857.

WITH GLANCES AT THE LEGENDARY LORE

OF THAT DISTRICT.

BY

THE REV. FREDERICK METCALFE, M.A.,

FELLOW OF LINCOLN COLLEGE, OXFORD,

AUTHOR OF

"THE OXONIAN IN NORWAY."

"Auf den Bergen ist Freiheit; der Hauch der Grüfte,
Steigt nicht hinauf in die schönen Lüfte,

Die Welt is volkommen überall,

Wo der Mensch nicht hinein kömmt mit seiner Qual."

"Tu nidum servas: ego laudo ruris amoni

Rivos, et musco circumlita saxa, nemusque."

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

LONDON:

SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS,

CHANDOS STREET

AR. 2183-2

CONTENTS TO VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

Danish custom-house officials-Home sickness-The ladies of Den-

mark - Ethnological Sweden and its forests - Influence of

climate on Peoples-The French court-Norwegian and Danish

pronunciation The Swiss of the North-An instance of

Norwegian slowness-Ingemann, the Walter Scott of Denmark-

Hans Christian Andersen-Genius in rags-The level plains of

Zealand-Danish cattle-He who moveth his neighbour's land-

mark-Beech groves-The tomb of the great Valdemar-The

two queens-The Probst of Ringstedt-Wicked King Abel--

Mormonism in Jutland-Roeskilde-Its cathedral-The Semi-

ramis of the North-Frederick IV.-Unfortunate Matilda,

pp. 1-17

CHAPTER II.

Copenhagen Children of Amak—Brisk bargaining-Specimens of

horn fish-Unlucky dogs-Thorwaldsen's museum-The Royal

Assistenz House-Going, gone-The Ethnographic Museum-

An inexorable professor-Lionizes a big-wig-The stone period

in Denmark-England's want of an ethnographical collection

-A light struck from the flint in the stag's head--The gold

period-A Scandinavian idol's cestus-How dead chieftains

cheated fashion-Antiquities in gold-Wooden almanacks —

Bridal crowns-Scandinavian antiquities peculiarly interesting

CHAPTER III.

The celebrated Three Crowns Battery-Hamlet's grave-The Sound

and its dues To Fredericksborg-Iceland ponies-Denmark an

equine paradise-From Copenhagen to Kiel-Tidemann, the

Norwegian painter-Pictures at Düsseldorf-The boiling of the

porridge-Düsseldorf theatricals-Memorial of Dutch courage—

Young heroes-An attempt to describe the Dutch language-The

Amsterdam canals-Half-and-half in Holland-Want of elbow-

room-A new Jerusalem-A sketch for Juvenal-The museum

of Dutch paintings-Magna Charta of Dutch independence―Jan

Steen's picture of the fête of Saint Nicholas-Dutch art in the

17th century-To Zaandam-Traces of Peter the Great-Easy

travelling-What the reeds seemed to whisper. . pp. 39-55

CHAPTER IV.

Broek-A Dutchman's idea of Paradise-A toy house for real

people-Cannon-ball cheeses-An artist's flirtation-John Bull

abroad-All the fun of the fair-A popular refreshment-Morals

in Amsterdam-The Zoological Gardens-Bed and Breakfast-

Paul Potter's bull-Rotterdam

pp. 56-64

CHAPTER V.

Oxford in the long vacation-The rats make such a strife-A case

for Lesbia-Interview between a hermit and a novice--The

ruling passion-Blighted hopes-Norwegian windows-Tortoise-

shell soup-After dinner-Christiansand again-Ferry on the

Torrisdal river-Plain records of English travellers-Salmonia-

The bridal crown--A bridal procession Hymen, O Hymenæe!

-A ripe Ogress-The head cook at a Norwegian marriage-

God-fearing people-To Saetersdal-Neck or nothing-Lilies and

lilies- The Dutch myrtle

CHAPTER VI.

pp. 65-81

A dreary station-Strange bed-fellows- Broadsides-Comfortable