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We are now in the hall. On our left, are barouches, phætons, broughams, gigs, fourthe parlors,-refreshment-rooms specially wheeled chaises, four-in-hands, Hansom cabs, devoted to the Jockey Club; on our right, a cabs of lesser note, chaise-carts, donkey-carts, set of seats, reserved, from the days of Flying | tilted vans made arborescent with green Childers, for the members of White's Club- boughs and carrying no end of people, and a house.

cask of beer,-equestrians, pedestrians, horse We step out upon the lawn; in the midst dealers, gentlemen, notabilities, and swinof the betting-ring, where sums of money of dlers, by tens of thousands-gradually thickfabulous amounts change hands. The follow-ening and accumulating, until, at last, a mile ing salutary notice, respecting too numerous short of the turnpike, they become wedged a class of characters, is printed on the admis together, and are very slowly filtered sion card :

through layers of policemen, mounted and “ The Lessee of the Epsom Grand Stand

a-foot, until, one by one, they pass the gate hereby gives notice that no person guilty of

and skurry down the hill beyond. The most any malpractices, or notoriously in default singular combinations occur in these turnin respect of stakes, forfeits, or bets lost upon pike stoppages and presses. Four-in-band horse-racing, will be admitted within the leaders look affectionately over the shoulGrand Stand or its inclosure during any ders of lad race meetings at Epsom ; and if any such

ders of ladies, in bright shawls, perched in person should gain admittance therein or gigs; poles of carriages appear, uninvited, thereupon, he will be expelled, upon his pres. in the midst of social parties in phætons ; ence being pointed out to the Stewards for little, fast, short-stepping ponies run up carthe time being, or to the Clerk of the Course." | riage-wheels before they can be stopped,

The first floor is entirely occupied with a and hold on behind like footmen. Now, the refreshment-room and a police-court. Sum- gentleman who is unaccustomed to public mary justice is the law of the Grand Stand. driving, gets into astonishing perplexities. Two magistrates sit during the races. Is a Now, the Hansom cab whisks craftily in and pickpocket detected, a thimble-rigger caught, out, and seems occasionally to fly over a a policeman assaulted ? The delinquent is wagon or so. Now, the postboy on a jobbrought round to the Grand Stand, to be con- bing or a shying horse, curses the evil hour of victed, sentenced, and imprisoned in as short his birth, and is ingloriously assisted by the a time as it takes to run a mile race. shabby hostler out of place, who is walking

The sloping roof is covered with lead, in down with seven shabby companions more steps; the spectator from that point has a or less equine, open to the various chances bird's-eye view of the entire proceedings, and of the road. Now, the air is fresh, and the of the surrounding country, which is beauti- dust flies thick and fast. Now, the canvasfully picturesque. When the foreground of booths upon the course are seen to glisten the picture is brightened and broken by the and flutter in the distance. Now, the advast multitude that assembles here upon the venturous vehicles make cuts across, and get Derby Day, it presents a whole which has into ruts and gravel-pits. Now, the heather no parallel in the world.

in bloom is like a field of gold, and the roar On that great occasion, an unused specta- of voices is like a wind. Now, we leave the tor might imagine that all London bad | hard road and go smoothly rolling over the turned out. There is little perceptible differ- soft green turf, attended by an army of unence in the bustle of its crowded streets, but fortunate worshippers in red jackets and all the roads leading to Epsom Downs are so stable-jackets, who make a very Juggernaut thronged and blocked by every description car of our equipage, and now breathlessly of carriage that it is marvellous to consider call us “ My Lord," and now,“ Your Honor.” how, when, and where, they were all made Now, we pass the outer settlement of tents

-out of what possible wealth they were all where pots and kettles are-where gipsy maintained--and by what laws the supply children are—where airy stabling is—where of horses is kept equal to the demand. Near tares for horses may be bought-where the favorite bridges, and at various leading water, water, water, is proclaimed-wbere points of the leading roads, clusters of people the Tumbler in an old pea-coat, with a post themselves by nine o'clock, to see the spangled fillet round his head, eats oysters, Derby people pass. Then come fitting by, I while his wife takes care of the golden globes and the knives, and also of the starry little ! A deeper hum and a louder roar. Every boy, their son, who lives principally upside body standing on Fortnum and Mason. Now down. Now, we pay one pound at the they're off! No. Now they're off! No. barrier, and go faster on, still Juggernaut. Now they're off. No. Now they are! Yes! wise, attended by our devotees, until at last There they go ! Here they come! Where? we are drawn, and rounded, and backed, and Keep your eye on Tattenham Corner, and sidled, and cursed, and complimented, and you'll see 'em coming round in half a minute. vociferated into a station on the hill opposite Good gracious, look at the Grand Stand, the Grand Stand, where we presently find piled up with human beings to the top, and ourselves on foot, much bewildered, waited at the wonderful effect of changing light as on by five respectful persons, who will brush all their faces, and uncovered heads turn us all at once.

suddenly this way! Here they are! Who Well, to be sure, there never was such a is! The horses! Where! Here they Derby Day, as this present Derby Day! come! Green first. No: Red first. No: Never, to be sure, were there so many car- Blue first. No: the Favorite first. Who riages, so many fours, so many twos, so says so? Look! Hurrah! Hurrah! All many ones, so many horsemen, so many over. Glorious race. Favorite wins! Two people who have come down by “rail,” so hundred thousand pounds lost and won. many fine ladies in so many broughams, so You don't say so! Pass the pie! many of Fortnum and Mason's bampers, so | Now, the pigeons fly away with the news much ice and champagne! If I were on the Now, every one dismounts from the top of turf, and had a horse to enter for the Derby, Fortnum and Mason, and falls to work with I would call that horse Fortnum and Mason, greater earnestness than before, on carriage convinced that with that name he would boxes, sides, tops, wheels, steps, roofs, and beat the field. Public opinion would bring rumbles. Now, the living stream upon the him in somehow. Look where I will in course, dammed for a little while at one some connection with the carriages-made point, is released, and spreads like partifast upon the top, or occupying the box, or colored grain. Now, the roof of the Grand tied up behind, or dangling below, or peep- Stand is deserted. Now, rings are formed ing out of window-I see Fortnum and upon the course, where strong men stand in Mason. And now, Heavens! all the ham. pyramids on one another's heads ; where the pers fly wide open, and the green Downs Highland lady dances; where the Devonshire burst into a blossom of lobster-salad ! Lad sets-to with the Bantam; where the Tum:

As if the great Trafalgar signal had been bler tbrows the golden globes about, with the suddenly displayed from the top of the starry little boy tied round him in a knot. Grand Stand, every man proceeds to “do Now, all the variety of human riddles his duty." The weaker spirits, who were who propound themselves on race-courses, ashamed to set the great example, follow it come about the carriages, to be guessed. instantly, and all around me there are table Now, the gipsy woman, with the flashing cloths, pies, chickens, hams, tongues, rolls, red or yellow bandkerchief about her head, lettuces, radishes, shell-fish, broad-bottomed and the strange silvery-boarse voice, apbottles, clinking glasses, and carriages turned pears, "pretty gentleman, to tell your fortin, inside out. Amidst the hum of voices a bell sir; for you have a merry eye, my gentlerings. What's that? What's the matter? | man, and surprises is in store ; for you're They are clearing the course. Never mind connected with a dark lady as loves you Try the pigeon-pie. A roar. What's the better than you love a kiss in a dark corner matter? It's only the dog upon the course. when the moon's a-shining; for you have a Is that all i Glass of wine. Another roar. lively 'art, my gentleman, and you shall What's that? It's only the man who wants know her secret thoughts, and the first and to cross the course, and is intercepted, and last letters of her name, my pretty gentlebrought back. Is that all? I wonder man, if you will cross your poor gipsy's whether it is always the same dog and the hand with a little bit of silver, for the luck same man, year after year! A great roar of the fortin as the gipsy will read true, What's the matter! By Jupiter they are from the lines of your hand, my gentleman, going to start.

both as to what is past, and present, and to come.” Now, the Ethiopians, looking un. so the world turns round bringing innocents utterably hideous in the sunlight, play old with it in abundance, though the three conbanjoes and bones, on which no man could federates are wretched actors, and could live perform ten years ago, but which, it seems, by no other trade if they couldn't do it better. any man may play now, if he will only Now, there is another bell, and another blacken his face, put on a crisp wig, a white clearing of the course, and another dog, and waistcoat and wristbands, a large white tie, another man, and another race. Now, there and give his mind to it. Now the sickly. | are all these things all over again. Now, looking ventriloquist, with an anxious face down among the carriage-wheels and poles, (and always with a wife in a shawl) teaches a scrubby growth of drunken postboys and the alphabet to the puppet pupil, whom he the like has sprung into existence, like takes out of his pocket. Now, my sporting weeds among the many-colored flowers of gentleman, you may ring the Bull, the Bull, fine ladies in broughams, and so forth. Now, the Bull; you may ring the Bull! Now, try | the drinking-booths are all full, and tobaccoyour luck at the knock-em-downs, my Noble smoke is abroad, and an extremely civil Swells—twelve heaves for sixpence, and a gentleman confidentially proposes roulette. pincushion in the centre, worth ten times And now, faces begin to be jaded, and horses the money! Now the Noble Swells take are harnessed, and wherever the old gray. five shillings' worth of “heaves,” and carry headed beggarman goes, he gets among off a balfpenny wooden pear in triumph. traces and splinter-bars, and is roared at. Now, it hails, as it always does hail, formid- So now we are on the road again, going able wooden truncheons round the heads, home. Now there are longer stoppages bodies, and shins of the proprietors of the than in the morning ; for we are a dense said knock-em-downs, whom nothing hurts. mass of men and women, wheels, horses, Now, inscrutable creatures, in smock frocks, and dust. Now, all the houses on the road beg for bottles. Now, a coarse vagabond, seem to be turned inside out, like the car. or idiot, or a compound of the two, never riages on the course, and the people belong. beheld by mortal off a race-course, hurries ing to the houses, like the people belonging about, with ample skirts and a tattered to the carriages, occupy stations which they parasol, counterfeiting a woman. Now, a never occupy at another time-on leads, on shabby man, with an overhanging forehead, housetops, on out-buildings, at windows, in and a slinking eye, produces a small board, balconies, in doorways, in gardens. Schools and invites your attention to something novel are drawn out to see the company go by. and curious—three thimbles and one little The academies for young gentlemen favor pex-with a one, two, three, and a two, us with dried peas; the establishments for three, one,-and a one-and a two-in the young ladies, (into which sanctuaries many middle-right hand, left hand-go you any wooden spears are pitched,) with bright bet from a crown to five sovereigns you eyes. We become sentimental, and wish don't lift the thimble the pea's under! we could marry Clapham. The crowd Now, another gentleman (with a stick) thickens on both sides of the road. All much interested in the experiment, will London appears to have come out to see us. “go" two sovereigns that he does lift It is like a triumphant entry-except that, the thimble, provided strictly, that the on the whole, we rather amuse than impress shabby man holds his hand still, and don't the populace. There are little love scenes touch 'em again. Now, the bet's made, and among the chestnut trees by the roadsidethe gentleman with the stick, lifts obviously young gentlemen in gardens resentful of the wrong thimble, and loses. Now, it is as glances at young ladies from coach tops clear as day to an innocent bystander, that other young gentlemen in other gardens, the loser must have won if he had not blind-minding young ladies, whose arms seem to ly lifted the wrong thimble-in which he is be trained like the vines. There are good strongly confirmed by another gentleman family pictures-stout fathers and jolly with a stick, also much interested, who pro mothers-rosy cheeks squeezed in between poses to “go him” balves—a friendly sov- the rails—and infinitesimal jockeys winning ereign to his sovereign-against the bank. in canters on walking-sticks. Now, the innocent agrees, and loses ;-—and And now we are home again-far from

absolutely certain of the name of the win- of such a remarkable exploit. Her age may ner of the Derby-knowing nothing what be (for in such cases we may only presume ever about any other race of the day-still \ to guess) verging, perhaps, upon fifty; her tenderly affected by the beauty of Clap. stature is small, ber figure slight, her feaham-and thoughtful over the ashes of tures plain, her dress homely, and her whole Fortnum and Mason.

appearance the very reverse of commanding. Her manner is remarkably quiet, not to say

even humble; and it is only in conversation From "Sharpe's Magazine,"

with her, when her dark eye kindles into A MORNING WITH MADAME IDA

animation over the recital of some passage

in her travels, that one perceives any outPFEIFFER.

ward manifestation of the courage and enOur readers may perhaps recollect a short thusiasm that so remarkably distinguish her. paper inserted a few months ago and entitled, After exchanging our mutual congratu“ A Lady that has seen the World.” It re. lations, the conversation (which was carried corded my meeting with a female pilgrim to on in French, Madame a peaking English but Jerusalem, who subsequently went round imperfectly) naturally turned upon the subthe earth by herself, and who, when the pa- ject of her recent journey. Reminding her per was written, was on her way home to of our original meeting on the shores of her native city, Vienna. I had often anxi. Palestine, and of the indifference with which ously desired to meet again so remarkable a she endured fatigue and hardship on that fellow-traveller, and, by the merest hazard occasion, I playfully observed “that I conin the world, I chanced, through a newspaper sidered that she had served her apprenticeparagraph, to hear that she was at the pres. | ship to myself, and that I had always ent moment in London, and immediately ob- boasted of a pupil who had left her tutor so tained her address. As she was at that time infinitely behind." She admitted that it lodging at a friend's house some distance was even so, and that her power of bearing from town, a meeting was appointed at his privation, tested in that journey, together counting house in the city. From Jerusalem with the taste for travelling she then acto Crutched Friars was certainly a rather quired, had led her to meditate still more abrupt transition, and as I pushed my way extensive wanderi through the multifarious obstructious of our “ It was after my journey to Iceland, crowded streets to the place of rendezvous, I which followed that into Palestine" could not help speculating as to what changes “ Iceland! my dear madame !" I exclaimhad been wrought by the interval of time ed with a sudden start. “Why I had not and travel that had elapsed since our previ. the slightest notion you had ever visited that ous meeting.

country." I reached the house, hurried up two flights “Oh yes, and published a book about it," of dirty stairs, tapped at the door of an office was her quiet reply ; and she immediately differing in no respect from the thousand resumed, “ after this Iceland journey, tben, dark and dingy ones in the city. “Come in," I left Vienna and embarked at Hamburgh was the response ; and on entering, in the for Rio Janeiro, and, after remaining some shadow of the room and looking strangely time on the toasts of Brazil, penetrated into out of place in the midst of a heap of ledgers the interior, visited the savage tribes, and and day-books, was, sure enough, the well crossing the continent of South America, remembered face of my old fellow-traveller, reached Valparaiso, which, as you know, is who rose and received me with the most on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. Thence lively expression of satisfaction. I, too, was I crossed over to the Island of Tahiti, where, rejoiced to find no change for the worse in during my stay, I was upou the most intithe appearance of my friend after so severe mate terms with Queen Pomare. Leaving an ordeal as a journey round the world. that beautiful spot, I crossed the vide

I remarked in my previous paper that Pacific Ocean to Canton, with which city I there was little in the person or bearing of was much delighted.” Madame Pfeiffer (such is the name of our “Of course," I remarked, “you do not adventurer) to mark her out as the heroine mean the interior of the Chinese quarter,

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into which Europeans are not allowed to Dr. Layard in the midst of his excavations
penetrate ?"

at Nineveh."
"Indeed I do," was her reply. “I am, Such a narrative of adventure, and from
perhaps, the only person that has ever gone the mouth of a female, might well take
through it. I must admit that the attempt away one's breath. I really seemed to be
was rash, but I could not overcome my curi- dreaming as I looked upon the frail little
osity. Madame Gutzlaff, the missionary's body before me, and heard her describe a
wife, assured me she had never ventured to devious career like this, with far less excite-
think of such a thing."

ment of manner than the mistress of a
“ But how did you contrive to accomplish cockney boarding-school would throw into
it ?" I inquired.

her account of the perils of a journey to
“ I hired two native Chinese to show me Boulogne. “What next?” I inwardly ex-
about," was her reply. “On reaching the claimed, as madame, renewing her narra-
prohibited entrance of the city it occurred to tive, quietly went on.
me that if I paid them there they might go “I entered next upon a rather dangerous
off and leave me. I was therefore obliged journey among the countries occupied by the
to resort to a little stratagem. Making signs wandering tribes of Kurdistan. Here I more
that I had no money, but showing an order than once fell into the hands of robbers."
upon one of the English houses of business, “You surely were not alone on this occa-
I pointed to the city, and expressing in the sion ?” I exclaimed.
same way my desire to go through it to the Entirely so," she replied, “and to that
English quarter, they consented to accom cause I probably owed my complete immu-
pany me through the streets. Such a sight nity from outrage. What could they do?
had never been seen in Canton before. The They saw before them a poor unprotected
people gathered in crowds, the women held woman, advanced in years and with all she
up their children as I passed along, the possessed in the world done up in a small
curiosity and amusement of the people were bundle. They would stop my horse, gaze
prodigious, and your gracious queen, on the upon me with astonishment, ask a few ques-
opening of the Exhibition, could hardly be tions, and then suffer me to pass on unmo-
more run after than was my poor insignifi- lested. On one occasion, being exhausted
cant self.”

with thirst, I begged for water from the
“And were you not horribly afraid ?” I leatherp bottles they carry it about in, and

they gave it me immediately.” “ Not in the least," was the reply.

• Then there are many more Robin Hoods
“And did you meet with no insult ?' than have ever been commemorated in song;

Not the slightest. Nothing could exceed there is honor even among thieves. Human
the civility of the people. After traversing nature is the same in the forest of Sherwood
the city my Chinese guides brought me to and the wilds of Kurdistan !"
the house of the English merchant, who “Well,” she resumed; "after I had done
could scarcely believe that I had come off with the Kurds, I made my way through
scatheless from so unprecedented an enter- Persia and Circassia to the shores of the Black
prise. Well, from Canton I visited several Sea, along which I sailed to Constantinople;
of the principal ports of China; and thence, thence to Greece, Sicily, and Italy, and so
touching at Singapore, made my way to back to my own door at Vienna, after an
Ceylon, where, not satisfied with remaining absence of three years. And now guess, what
at Point de Galle, I visited the capital, do you think this journey cost me?"
Kandy. Calcutta was the next point of my Having already observed the simple and
journey. I ascended the Ganges on the self-denying habits of my old companion, I
deck of a bungalow, went far into the inte was prepared for a rather low estimate, but
rior, examined the antiquities, visited the when I considered the mere distance she
courts of some of the native princes, by had gone over, without allowing her any
whom I was kindly received, and, satisfied thing to eat, I mentally named a figure, (a
with my survey of India, returned to the sum of several hundreds,) which some ex-
coast, embarked for the Persian Gulf, and perience in travel led me to fix upon as the
then ascending the Tigris, looked in upon | very minimum of her expense. What was


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