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CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Alexinitz-Description of a Turkish guard-house -Rencounter with the recruits of the Nizam-Embarrassments of a traveller in Turkey-Advantages of being a linguist-Frank Bimbashi-His romantic history-Arrival at Nissa-The great antiquity of that town-Mosques at NissaTheir administration-Turks and Rayahs

CHAPTER VIII.

121

Description of Nissa-Some account of its inhabitants-Characteristics of the Turks and the Rayahs-Nissa as a military position-Its fortifications and fortress-Visit to the castle of human skulls-Sketch of the Bulgarian insurrection of 1841 134

CHAPTER IX.

Visit to the Pacha of Nissa-The missing Englishman—Italian doctor-Hospitality of the Pacha-Arnout guard-Crossing the Balkan-Traces of ancient roads-Aspect of the country -Splendid view-Ruins of an old Hungarian castle-Karaoul -Arrival at Orkup-Sketch of the town and inhabitants— Advantages of an Imperial firman-An agreeable surprize

154

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Orkup-Valley of the Toplitza-A colony of Arnouts-Sketches of the inhabitants-Novel mode of crossing a river-Thunder-storm-Perilous travelling-Scene at a mountain han-Hanji cookery-Aspect of the country-An eventful forest-Bivouac-How to procure a supper and cook it-A characteristic sketch of national prejudice

168

CHAPTER XI.

Travelling in Upper Moesia-Sketches of the country-Ancient roads and bridges-Valley of the Morava-Characteristics of the inhabitants-Their social state-System of self-government -Their hospitality-Reforms of the Sultan-Fanaticism of the Turks and Rayahs-Influence of the Christian clergyVillage entertainment

185

CHAPTER XII.

Spirit of the Greek Church-Superstition-Clergy-Religious festivals Singular customs of the people-Traditions—Rivalry between the Greek and the Latin Church

204

CHAPTER XIII.

Early history and government of the Greek Church-The reforming Kral of Servia-Peter of Russia-Venality of the Greek clergy-Their revenues-How derived-Abuses of the Church-Education-Character of the Turks-Greeks and

Slavonians-General observations

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225

CHAPTER XIV.

Taxes-How levied in Turkey-Rayah grievances-Reforms of the late Sultan Mahmoud-Their consequences-Present con

dition of Turkey

CHAPTER XV.

248

Political state of Turkey-General observations

265

CHAPTER XVI.

Arrival at Vrania-Visit to the Pacha of Vrania-Entertainment -Arnouts--Military expedition to Bosnia-Crossing the mountains in Upper Moesia-Turkish bivouac-Arrival at Pristina-Plain of Cossova-Insurrection in Bosnia and Albania-Mausoleum of Sultan Amurath-Reschid PachaVeli Bey-Bivouac-Arnout tents-Violent tempest-Ruined castle of the Krals of Servia-Ascent of the Rogosna Planina -Splendid prospect 274

CHAPTER XVII.

Route between Novi-bazar and Bosna-Serai-Mountains and defiles of Bosnia-Natural fortifications-Arrival at BosnaSerai-The representative system in Bosnia-Municipal rights of the citizens-Feudalism and Democracy-Fanaticism— Bosnian renegades-Causes which led to their conversionEnlightened policy of the early Sultans of Turkey-Turkish reform-Its effects in Bosnia-Political state of BosniaEnglish Vice-Consul-His expulsion by the Turks-Impolicy of placing foreigners in diplomatic appointments-Austrian Consul-Commerce and political agents-Historical sketches of Bosnia-Insurrection in Bosnia-Injustice of the Ottoman Porte-Horrible sufferings of the Slavonian-Mussulmans in the Stari Vlah-Milosh, Prince of Servia 294

CHAPTER XVIII.

Insurrection of the Slavonian-Mussulmans in Bosnia-Religious sectarianism in Bosnia-How useful to the Sultan as an instrument of government-Prince Milosh of Servia-Sultan Mahmoud and his reforms-Effects of his death in BosniaVehighi, Vizier of Bosnia-Sketch of the Haiducs and the

Ouskoks in Bosnia and Herzegowina-Contrast between the race of Othman and the Slavo-Mussulmans of Bosnia-Battle between the combined forces of the Nizam and the Christians against the non-reforming Mussulmans of Bosnia-Victory of the Vizier Vehighi-Plunder of Bosna-Serai-Disgrace and captivity of the Vizier-Perfidious policy of the Ottoman Government-Critical state of Bosnia-Geographical position -General view of the country-Its mountains, rivers and forests-Productions-Austrian influence in Bosnia-Bosnia in a military point of view-How situated with regard to Austria

318

CHAPTER XIX.

Character of the inhabitants of Bosnia-Social institutionsSelf-government of the people-Its beneficial tendency-Native bards-Music-Superstitions-Similarity between the Slavonians of European Turkey and those of Hungary and Austria-Moral conduct of the people-Marriage ceremony -Mode of burial - Service of the Koran - Customs and manuers-Medical science-Prevalent diseases-The hans in Bosnia-Mode of living-Cookery State of agricultureForests-Mineral treasures in Bosnia-Iron works-Mineral

springs

312

CHAPTER XX.

Return to Novi-bazar-Description of that town-Its importance as a military position-Attempt of Tzerni George, of Servia, to obtain possession-Departure from Novi-bazar-Mountain districts of Upper Moesia and Upper Albania-Inhabitants -Villages-Forests-Climate-Contrast between the Servians and the Arnouts of Albania-Dangerous travelling-Description of the country-The chamois and wild goat-Singular

species of the tame goat Arrival at Gousnee- Revolt of the mountaineers in 1847-Predatory warfare between the mountaineers of Tchernegora and the Arnouts of Upper Albania-Their hospitality, and chivalrous behaviour towards the stranger and women 366

CHAPTER XXI.

The importance of Tchernegora as a military position-Its natural defences-Historical sketch of Tchernegora-Extraordinary bravery of the mountaineers-Their wars with the Turks-How they recovered their independence-The Vladika Petrovich-Perfidy of the Pacha of Scutari-Massacre of the Turks-Peter the Great of Russia-His alliance with Tchernegora-Victories of the Tchernegori over Marshal Marmont and the French-Their wars with the Austrians-Form of government in Tchernegora-Religion, customs and manners of the people

386

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