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CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Alexinitz-Description of a Turkish guard-house
-Rencounter with the recruits of the Nizam-Embarrass-
ments of a traveller in Turkey-Advantages of being a lin-
guist-Frank Bimbashi-His romantic history-Arrival at
Nissa-The great antiquity of that town-Mosques at Nissa-
Their administration-Turks and Rayahs
CHAPTER VIII.
121
Description of Nissa-Some account of its inhabitants-Charac-
teristics of the Turks and the Rayahs-Nissa as a military
position-Its fortifications and fortress-Visit to the castle
of human skulls-Sketch of the Bulgarian insurrection of
1841 134
CHAPTER IX.
Visit to the Pacha of Nissa-The missing Englishman-Italian
doctor-Hospitality of the Pacha-Arnout guard-Crossing
the Balkan-Traces of ancient roads-Aspect of the country
-Splendid view-Ruins of an old Hungarian castle-Karaoul
-Arrival at Orkup-Sketch of the town and inhabitants-
Advantages of an Imperial firman - An agreeable sur-
prize
154
CHAPTER X.
Departure from Orkup-Valley of the Toplitza-A colony of
Arnouts-Sketches of the inhabitants-Novel mode of cross-
ing a river-Thunder-storm-Perilous travelling-Scene at a
mountain han-Hanji cookery-Aspect of the country-An
eventful forest-Bivouac-How to procure a supper and cook
it-A characteristic sketch of national prejudice
168
TRAVELS
IN
EUROPEAN TURKEY,
IN 1850.
VOL. I.