country still continued mountainous, and covered with forests of great extent and magnitude. Droves of pigs alternated, from time to time, with herds of sheep, goats and horned cattle-the latter, similar to the small breed we usually find in Scotland. Here and there might be seen some signs of cultivation; trees had been cut down, and in part burnt, and then left standing, in the midst of fields of maize and corn, like obelisks in mourning; vineyards also seemed to multiply, but the vines, whether from neglect, or that the grape was improved by this mode of culture, were left to trail on the ground, or entwine themselves among the weeds and brushwood that luxuriantly grew among them.

However great an evil may be, and the amount of suffering it may produce, still it is seldom without some counterbalancing good: the famine which, in Western Europe, gave rise to so much misery and distress, was here a subject of congratulation, since it produced such an extraordinary demand for corn, that it proved the means of bringing much additional land into cultivation. Even among these unsophisticated people, the natural cupidity of man displayed itself. I was frequently asked by the peasant, whether the famine would be likely to continue a few years longer: partly because I resolved to be spiteful with people who seemed to rejoice at our misfortunes, and partly because I thought their health would be benefited by a little more work, I told them the scarcity of food was likely to continue a few years longer; and that as the industry and wealth of the inhabitants of Western Europe enabled them to pur

chase corn and all the luxuries of life, they would act wisely by growing an additional quantity of grain, and might look forward to finding their own fertile fields, if properly cultivated, a mine of wealth more valuable than one of gold.

At Tchoupria we traversed a fine wooden bridge thrown over the Morava, the toll was twenty-five pari for our two horses. I amused myself while Georgy was roasting a string of fat ortolans, I had shot during our route, by strolling through this little town, which contains a few hundred houses. The principal occupation of the inhabitants, both men and women, seemed to be weaving. When at work the aspect they presented was most ludicrous, since the loom being placed in a hole in the ground, nothing but the head and shoulders of the operator remained visible.

At Parachin we crossed another wooden bridge over the rapid Loupkova, again paying a few pari as a toll. On ascending Mount Jouor we obtained a splendid view of the Bosnian Mountains, the lofty Jaskevatz, with that of the Stara Planina near Nissa, and the magnificent defile of the Stalatch. The highest peaks of these mountains still remained covered with snow, and as the wind blew from that direction, the change in the temperature was far too sudden to be agreeable. To increase our discomfort, a violent storm of rain now poured down upon us like a deluge, a visitation much to be dreaded by travellers in these provinces, not only on account of the personal inconvenience it occasions, but the slough-like state to which roads, without

any dressing of stone, are reduced, and which render them impassable for a day or two. This will easily be understood when we add that the soil is of a deep loam with scarcely a pebble, and that to travel over it after heavy rains is like crossing some slippery morass, where for every step in advance, a man may make two in

retreat.

In the midst of a torrent of rain we were glad to seek shelter among a colony of gipsies. I thought the dwellings of the good Servians sufficiently primitive, but the architectural efforts of this vagrant race were not superior to those of the beaver. The men and women were nearly naked, the children entirely so, with a most swarthy complexion, white teeth, bright jet-black eyes, and a profusion of tangled raven-black hair; the expression of their countenances was singularly wild and forbidding. They were all engaged either at smith's work, or in fashioning wooden bowls and spoons. They appeared to be comparatively well off, as they had plenty of goats and sheep browzing on the neighbouring hill, and kept horses for sale. During summer they send expeditions of their people to search for gold in the mountain rivers of Bosnia, Upper Moesia, and the Balkan. I was surprised to see how large a quantity they had collected, and of which the chief was desirous I should become the purchaser. They had also picked up some valuable pebbles during their wanderings.

Our gipsy friends most hospitably urged us to remain their guests for the night, and kindly set before us raki and cake baked in the ashes; they gave additional

force to their solicitations, by pointing out the flesh-pots bubbling over the fire, and the good cheer they would afford. This was an abomination to a devout Christian like Georgy, who cursed them as Pagans. As for myself, however tempting might be the savoury odour arising from the flesh-pots, I had no desire to take up my quarters with a people, who unfortunately do not add the virtue of cleanliness to that of hospitality. Hence, in spite of the drenching rain, we once more set out to reach a han at some distance, which bore the ominous name of Haiduk-Tchesmé-Han (the fountain han of the brigands).

The most fatiguing and disagreeable portion of our journey since we entered Servia now commenced. Our road, which was carried along the steep sides of a rugged declivity, consisting of a heavy loam, had been converted by the rain into a perfect quagmire, through which our jaded horses plunged and floundered, and to add to our misery the night overtook us ere we had accomplished half the distance, leaving us in total darkness to plod our weary and dangerous way through a drenching rain. Suddenly poor Georgy's steed lost his footing, and first sliding, then rolling completely over, pitched the plump figure of his terrified rider with a crash into the midst of a tangled thicket of furze, briar and holly, from which I need not say my fat friend did not escape without many scratches and contusions, and innumerable rents in his garments. Scarcely had he regained his legs when I met with a similar accident; more fortunate, however, than Georgy, I alighted unhurt among the

deep soft mire, in which I left the impression of my Frank features as a souvenir to any of my friends the Haiducs who chanced to pass that way.

To prevent a similar accident, which might not have so happy a termination, we now resolved to trust to our own feet, and thus plodding kneedeep through the mire, leading our steeds after us, covered with dirt, drenched to the skin, fatigued and hungry, never did mariner after a boisterous cruise hail a port with greater glee than we did the glimmering light of the han in the distance. But, alas! our troubles seemed never to have an end, for on arriving there we found it so full of weather-bound travellers, that we despaired of even a place to sit down. The event proved that we did not give these good people credit for the hospitality they possess, since they not only made place, but insisted on the poor drenched Frank occupying the warmest corner, while coffee, raki, and the friendly tchibouque was pressed upon us on all sides; our bustling hanji also set about preparing for us a smoking posset composed of bruised onions, oatmeal and red pepper, his never-failing specific against the ill effects of a thorough wetting, at the same time placing my drenched garments near the fire, that they might be ready for use by morning. In the midst of all this attention and kindness, I could not help thinking the appellation of our han, as the resort of the brigands of the fountain, a very great misnomer.

With the shadows of night vanished every disagreeable reminiscence of the preceding day, and found me