are a fine race of men, robust, broad-shouldered and strongly-built; we found them ever ready to share with us their raki, which they carried in a gourd suspended from their girdle, and the contents of their well-stocked provender bag. The demand for English powder was ever made upon our generosity, both here and elsewhere in these provinces-to be used as priming for their weapons, thereby inferring that its superior excellence, even in these remote provinces, has been tested. As it is prized by these people, the gift was certain to be acknowledged with the gratitude of the warrior, or the sportsman, and never failed to make a friend of the receiver.

I could not help reflecting on the want of foresight and generalship shown by the Turks, during the war of Servian independence, since if, instead of burning the towns and villages, and putting the inhabitants to the sword, they had set fire to the forests, and slaughtered the pigs, they would have destroyed the retreat of their enemy, and his means of supporting the war. Thus the Servians, however brave and enterprising, could never have maintained themselves against such an overwhelming force as the Turks were able to bring against them; for Servia, with the exception of her forests, and an occasional defile or elevated plateau, does not possess that succession of natural defences we find in the neighbouring countries of Bosnia, Upper Moesia, and the Balkan.

During our route, we now and then met with a fox, a wolf, or a bear; the latter are of a grey colour, and not

large; the lynx and the wild cat are more numerous, and in some districts, near the villages, the hares were as plentiful as rabbits in a warren. The nobler species of deer does not abound in Servia, those that we saw were called by the Servians jir and sirna, the hart and roebuck. The eagle, the vulture, and the hawk, often met our view, while the ortolan of the prairie seemed to be as plentiful as larks in a stubble field in England.

Determined not to be again obliged to seek our supper among the barn-door fowls of a fanatic Servian baba, we bagged as much game as we thought would suffice for our evening meal. In crossing Mount Lepar, we again saw a bear; and whether Bruin was inexperienced in the ways of the hunting world, certain it is, he most unwisely came within range of our muskets, from which we discharged successive volleys, till he fell. Not knowing what to do with him, we presented our prize to Georgy, who received it with many a slouga pokorni, and dobro s'dravie, and set about strapping it on his saddle.

Towards evening, we overtook a traveller, whose appearance excited, in no ordinary degree, the wonder of my kiraidji, and travelling companions. I had seen too many of his brethren, not to know that the small cap, linen blouse, and leathern belt, together with the well-stuffed knapsack, drawn after him on an ingenious little hand-carriage, betokened a German operative. When I addressed him in the language of his Deutschen Fatherland, the poor fellow was delighted beyond measure; he informed us he was a saddler, and journeying

on to Bittoglia, in Macedonia, where numbers of his countrymen were employed in making saddles for the Turkish cavalry. It appears he had travelled on foot the whole distance, from Ludwigsburg, in Wurtemberg, with scarcely a coin in his pocket, begging here, and working there; he spoke most gratefully of the Servian people, who never refused to give him a carpet to sleep on, and plenty of food; their benevolence was the more admirable, as the German spoke no language but his own, consequently could not excite their pity by his eloquence. He remained our guest till we parted the next morning. Should these pages ever meet the eye of any of his friends, his name was Christian Holtzman. Surely his perseverance deserves success.

When we entered the streets of Jagodin, men, women, and children crowded around our kiraidji, to admire his shaggy burden. Bears are by no means numerous in this part of Servia; and our good fortune, and skill as marksmen, excited many comments, and some envy, since the flesh of this animal is regarded here as a delicacy. We had a few slices broiled for supper, which we thought excellent. Georgy would have been well contented if we had shot a bear every day, since his purse benefited in no inconsiderable degree by the exploit. He received twenty piastres from the captain of the district, the recompense given by the Government when one of these animals is killed; add to which, he got thirty for the hide; to say nothing of the sum the hanji paid him for Bruin's four quarters, which he intended to salt and dry in the sun;

in which state the meat, we were told, would preserve its nutritious qualities for years.

Jagodin, containing from seven to eight hundred houses, is the largest town we had passed through since leaving Belgrade: with the exception, perhaps, of about a dozen houses two stories high, the remainder were only a repetition of Hassan-Pacha-Palanka. It was Sunday, hence we had an opportunity of seeing the population in their holiday attire. The better class of women were decorated much in the same manner as those we have described at the capital, Belgrade; but the head-dress of the peasants, who came in great numbers, from the remote villages, to church, was unique. On the top of the head was an ornament, in form somewhat resembling a horn; attached to this was a broad band, of some very bright-coloured silk, about two feet in length, falling down the back: others had adopted a sort of crescent, edged with feathers, which might formerly have ornamented the tail of a gallant chanticleer.

The weather having become excessively warm, the women, for the most part, wore a chemise of gray linen, braided, in various colours, with great taste, confined round the waist, by a band, with a large clasp, often of gold or silver. This garment served to set off to the best advantage the gaudy hues of two pieces of thick carpet, that in front had the effect of an apron, while the other served as a seat in a country without chairs or stools. Instead of shoes and stockings, they wore leggings, embroidered with every colour of the

flower-garden, to which were attached sandals. The costume of the men was more diversified-swineherds and shepherds, wrapped up in their sheep-skin mantles, and towering fur caps; the higher class in their crimson shalwars, red fez and hussar jacket, each with their belt full of pistols, appeared as if they had met to consult on some foraying expedition.

We visited the glass manufactory of M. Constantin Thomitch, a Bohemian, a remarkably intelligent man, the first who has introduced the manufacture of this article into Servia. The position he selected has been most judiciously chosen; the necessary material abounds in the vicinity; and what is not frequently seen in this country, he has at his command a fine forest of beech trees for fire-wood.

I left Jagodin dispirited and ennuyé-the novelty of the scene, the wild, picturesque country, ever changing, ever varied, with its interesting inhabitants, did not compensate for the loss of my intellectual travelling companion, who found himself, from fatigue, unable to continue his journey; and now, with no other society than that of Georgy, I felt as if I had been cast away upon some unknown country, without any friend to whom I could communicate a single idea. The bracing air of the mountain, and a little philosophy, at length reconciled me to my situation; and I determined to make the best of my position, and see if I could not extract some amusement from the scenes around me.

On leaving Jagodin, we travelled for some miles over a tolerably well laid out road; the general aspect of the