and intelligence. She may close her territories to the intrusion of the political and religious opinions of her neighbours; but the human mind, whether individually or collectively, cannot remain stationary, and the advancement of knowledge in her people, which it is impossible for her to prevent, must operate its natural result the modification and improvement of their religious and political institutions.

But to return to our mountaineers of Upper Moesia. Without attempting to criticize the religious forms of the Greek Church, and its superstitious tendencies, we must admit that it renders the people religious and virtuous, and being, as we before observed, linked with their superstitions and traditions, their amusements and employments of everyday life, we cannot feel surprized that its influence is powerful and all-pervading. How beautiful, nay, how invaluable, in these remote districts, are the simple truths of Christianity, which we see training this unsophisticated people to the practice of morality and virtue.

If many of their superstitions appear as remnants of Paganism they are never without a moral, and if we are disposed to ridicule the useless ceremonies with which their public worship is burdened, the gross ignorance of the people, and their clergy, we ought to remember that they are, for the most part, still subject to a power that has proved in all ages the direst enemy to their faith, allowing them no other temple in which to cele

brate divine service than the lonely cavern-the mountain summit. But even in their present position, how much happier are they, than the miserable unbeliever of more civilized countries; firmly convinced of the divine origin of their Church, they pass through life undisturbed by uncertainty and doubt, and die resigned, relying on the blessed hope of an existence in a better world.

Although these Papas of the Greek Church are not distinguished for their high attainments in theology, many of them are models of piety and good conduct; and as they are allowed by their Church to marry, they mingle with the people upon every occasion, share with them the same cares and interest, the same joys and sorrows, and without being too austere, set an example of industry, sobriety and morality. They are to be met with at every festive board and entertainment; and without joining in the dance of the people, it is easy to perceive in their laughing good-humoured countenances, how heartily they sympathize with their amusements.

During the frenzy of Turkish persecution, when the clergy were hunted like wild beasts by the ferocious soldiery of the Crescent, they continued to celebrate with an exertion almost superhuman the rites of the Church; now in the recesses of the cavern, and again in the fastnesses of their native mountain, the hymn of worship rose to heaven.

Nor was it alone by performing divine service, that they

proved themselves worthy members of the church militant; wherever the battle raged, there were the clergy, the daring leaders of their followers; and many a piesma is still related recording the gallant deeds of the Pope (papa). In truth, the preservation of Christianity in these provinces, may in a great measure be ascribed to the exertions of these champions of the Christian faith, and the result naturally is, that they exercise the most unbounded influence over the minds of the people, which is aided by the manner in which they sympathize with their interests, their amusements and their innocent superstitions.

We will proceed to sketch a few of these superstitions, and the manner in which the people observe the great festivals of the Greek Church, which will serve to illustrate their picty, and show how intimately religion is identified with their customs and manners, and although with some modifications they are common to every nationality professing the Greek ritual, may be seen in greater purity among a rural population like this, far removed from the great world. The feast of St. George (Sveti Tjordji) is one of the most popular, and always peculiarly welcome to an agricultural and pastoral people like our mountaineers, for then winter with all its désagremens has given way to life-giving spring. The anxiety with which the fête day of this renowned warrior is anticipated is great, indeed; for should it be fair and sunny, certain prosperity and happiness may

be expected for the ensuing year; if, on the contrary, it proves to be wet and stormy, some public calamity is universally dreaded. Happy, simple-minded Slavons, they have an antidote in prayer against every impending evil, additional invocations by the Holy Papa cannot, as they consider, fail in averting the calamity. In truth, the good man has no sinecure, since his prayers are invoked by all classes. The young girls ask for handsome husbands; the newly-married for pretty babies, and that they may be beloved by their husbands.

In order to render the prayers of the Papa more efficacious, the saint must be propitiated; and as no offering is more acceptable to the gallant knight than the first flowers of spring, all those who have any petition to make, any prayer to be granted, repair to the woods and fields, and in his name cull, at earliest dawn, on the day of his festival, the most beautiful flowers they can find, which are worn as bouquets in the hair of the women, and in the girdles of the men, when they assemble in the house of prayer.

Nor is the good man of the house less anxious than the fairer members of his family to propitiate the allpowerful saint; a lamb is roasted in honour of his fête, the blood is solemnly spilled at the door, in his name, which superstition believes to be an infallible safeguard against the entrance of all that is evil.

The anniversary of our Lord's birth, and His resurrection, are observed observed with every demonstration of

religious rejoicing on these occasions the fervent piety of the people is publicly evinced, and a most interesting scene is presented to the observation of the stranger. Those towns and districts where there are churches or convents, are crowded with worshippers, for nothing but sickness will prevent both hoary age and lisping infancy from attending public service on these sacred days.

In localities where there is no church, as in this district of Upper Moesia, some lonely retreat, already sacred to the performance of religious worship, is sought in the mountains, and a temporary shed erected, which serves as a substitute, and all the population, however inclement the weather may be, repair thither to offer up their devotions.

On Easter-eve, as the clock strikes twelve, and the great festival commences, silence, the most solemn, pervades the assembly, when suddenly, the loud voice of the Papa is heard exclaiming: "Christos Voskrs,' (Christ is risen), which is responded to by the entire multitude with the sound as of a crash of thunder, exclaiming "Vo-istino Voskrs," (He is risen); then, as if rendered happy by the glad tidings, each man embraces his neighbour, and divides with him the Easter cake, blessed by the Papa; at the same time, where the ceremony can be practised with safety, without alarming the Turks, a loud discharge of firearms is heard echoing from mountain to mountain, from village to village, throughout the entire land.