maintain undisputed possession of their mountain home; no hostile Osmanli daring to pass the confines of a stronghold, where every man is a soldier, and even the women never part with the pistols and dagger that glitter in their belt.

Again, we have the little state of Tchernegoria, where a population, scarcely amounting to a hundred thousand, entrenched in their mountains, have continued to keep inviolate their own patriarchal form of Government, their laws and customs, in defiance of the whole force of the Ottoman Porte, and that during the most brilliant epoch of its might and strength.

It is certain that the system of self-government, and the union of tribes and villages into a confederacy, for mutual defence, has been the means of preserving the nationality and the religion of the Rayahs, in a country where force has been too long the law of the land. Their own social virtues also, which shine out in bright relief in all their intercourse with each other, have had the same tendency. Among this people, the isolating self-interest of Western Europe is unknown; they are generous to each other, hospitable to the stranger, sympathize with the afflicted, and provide a maintenance alike for helpless infancy and decrepid age. Then let it be remembered, idleness and dissipation, so frequently the heralds of crime in a more civilized state of society, are expressly forbidden, and the man who, in this or any other respect, violates the patriarchal laws of his community is expelled, and becomes an outcast; even

the Haiduc of the mountain refuses to associate with him who is branded by his tribe as a Cain.

But, perhaps, tho most beautiful trait in the character of this primitive people, is the unfeigned respect paid to old age. The man who has borne the heat of sixty summers is exempted from every tax, and should such be his pleasure, he may pass the remainder of his days in indolence, since the hearth of each member of his tribe is to him a home; his blessing is solicited, and he is regarded by old and young with reverence, as a man who is approaching the close of his mortal pilgrimage, when he will be translated to a happier home; and must they not by kindness and good offices propitiate the friendship of one who may soon, in another world, intercede for their unworthiness?

The courtesy of these people towards the stranger, I had ample opportunities of witnessing. With them, true genuine hospitality is at once a pleasure and a duty, and I cannot speak too gratefully of the kindness I received during my tour, whether in the lowlands or the mountain-top; not that this was accorded in compliance to my firman, still less could it be in the expectation of any compensation I could make for the trouble incurred by this good people. It was sufficient that Georgy announced in the village, the arrival of the Ingleski traveller, when I was certain to receive an invitation.

In every village, Turkish or Slavonian, there is to be found a han for the reception of the traveller, in which

he is nearly certain to find bread, wine and raki, and a bench to repose on; for this accommodation, he must pay; but the charge is always trifling; if, however, the traveller is invited to the house of the Kodji-Bachi, and it is not a fast day, then the fatted calf or lamb is killed, and everything is done to evince respect towards the stranger.

We will now describe one of these entertainments, given by a wealthy tribe, at Komorava, where we passed the night, before arriving at the town of Vrania, which in no respect differed from those usually offered to the stranger, except that this was what might be termed a grand gala.

Let us, then, picture to ourselves the Kodji-Bachi, and his lieutenants, the elders of the villages-after having made an elaborate toilet, their shirts, jackets and shalwars, all richly braided, sandals with red bands, for strappings, and caps of fine lambskin-at the han of the traveller, inviting him to take up his abode at the konak of the community; while the fair baba at home has a world of trouble-her occupations are, indeed, multifarious; she has not only to provide and arrange the feast, but she and her hand-maidens must also appear in gala costume. in gala costume. The sheepfold, the dairy and the apiary, are ransacked, in search of dainties to form a repast worthy of him who is the guest of the whole tribe.

The coarse woollen garments of everyday wear are laid aside, to be replaced by others, which have been, perhaps, an heir-loom in the family before the Turkish

conquest. Now, we see her in the pretty blue or red silk jacket, lined with fur, and braided with gold, the ample sleeves of which display her well-turned arm; the heaving stomacher, shalwar, and tunic, all are braided with gold; and the cincture is confined with very large clasps, often of the finest gold, richly chased, and of the most exquisite workmanship; and so beautiful was the form of the bracelets our fair baba wore on this occasion, so pure the metal, and so delicately fine the pattern, that the noblest dame in Europe might have permitted them to encircle her arm. Then the necklace, in the eyes of the antiquary, at least, was priceless, being composed of gold coins, of different epochs, chiefly of Philip and Alexander of Macedon, as fresh as if they had just issued from the Mint. The turban of the baba herself, and the hair of her young maidens, were lavishly adorned with similar beautiful coins; among which, I observed the zechinos of Venice.

When we reflect how often the villages of these poor people have been sacked and burnt, the inhabitants slaughtered, or driven into captivity, we must admire the adroitness they have displayed in preserving their wealth. These (their household gods), which they reverence as amulets, to shield them from harm in the hour of danger, are always conveyed to some place of safety, so secure, that hitherto, all the researches of their rapacious enemies, the Turks, to discover their place of concealment have proved fruitless.

On the arrival of the stranger, the baba makes her appearance, bearing a silver salver, on which is placed a

glass of water, and a small quantity of sweetmeats in a silver saucer; these she presents to her guest in token of welcome; and when he has eaten and drank in the house of his host, he becomes, as it were, a member of the family, whose person must be guarded, and property protected, at all risks. This ceremony being over, coffee is introduced, served in gold or silver cups, with filagree stands, and the tchibouque, which the traveller takes in company with the host and his friends.

Before the feast is served, the baba and her handmaidens enter the reception-room, bringing water and towels, for the visitors to wash their hands; the mistress of the house, through courtesy, renders this service to the stranger; then follows the repast, often so artistically prepared, as to be palatable to a native of Western There is Europe, even if inclined to be fastidious.

usually a pillaff, meat cooked in vine-leaves, roast meat, salads, confectionary made from the produce of the dairy and the apiary, fruit, either fresh, preserved or dried, and invariably olives; each dish succeeds the other separately, so that the repast is a very lengthened affair Small tables, and low stools, perform the duties of a chair and table-an approach to European usages, and a great relief from the habit of sitting cross-legged, at one of the interminable dinners of an Osmanli.

During the repast, the wine is served out in a silver cup, often beautifully chased, which is passed from one to the other round the table, with a general nasdravi (salutation). At the conclusion of the feast, the guests discharge their fire-arms, in honour of the Kodji