CHAPTER XI.

Travelling in Upper Moesia-Sketches of the country-Ancient roads and bridges-Valley of the Morava-Characteristics of the inhabitants-Their social state-System of self-government -Their hospitality-Reforms of the Sultan-Fanaticism of the Turks and Rayahs-Influence of the Christian clergyVillage entertainment.

THE extensive plateau on which we had bivouacked the preceding night, according to the pandour, was called Arnoutska Planina, and from its summit we enjoyed a very splendid prospect. There was the Morava, winding through a succession of deep defiles, here enclosed from view by some projecting mountain, and again opening into a wide valley, extending on to Leskovatz, whose lofty minarets were faintly pictured on the horizon From this point the encircling chain of the Bulgarian Balkan, with its bare and rugged peaks, the Stara Planina, the Snegpol, and the Soura Planina, formed a continuous line on to the Jaskevatz, the Retagn, and the lofty Kapaonik-Gora, on the frontier of Servia. On the other side, in the direction of Novibazar, Pristina and Vrania, lay a chaos of mountains,

over which rose, in the far distance, the snowy summits of Upper Albania and Tchernegoria.

Refreshed with a good night's rest, and our horses again in capital travelling order, we commenced our descent through a cleft of the mountain, which gradually opened into a deep defile, and our only road being the bed of a torrent, its round stones and pebbles rendered it most difficult for our horses to keep their footing. At length we arrived at the Morava, where we found a han, and a wooden bridge of great height thrown across the river. In the centre it was broken, as if to arrest the advance of an invading army, and the space having been filled up with beams thrown across, over which was laid wattles, without any sort of fastening, these bridges, of which we crossed several on our route to Leskovatz and Vrania, were exceedingly dangerous; one in particular, consisting of a single arch, of immense height, was evidently of great antiquity. But, bad as they were, climbing broken bridges was less perilous than swimming across rivers that had become

torrents.

We did not follow the banks of the Morava; for when it took a serpentine direction, regardless of every obstruction, whether defile, ravine, glen, or mountain, we kept our straightforward course, crossing and recrossing it, several times, and where neither a bridge, nor a boat was to be met with, we were again obliged to swim our horses over. If this mode of travelling were fatiguing, at least it expedited our journey, and afforded me the opportunity of enjoying many a delightful pro

spect, and of seeing the rich and fertile valley of the Morava to greater advantage.

At the entrance of more than one of the defiles through which we passed I observed the ruins of some buildings, probably castellated towers, and not unfrequently the same species of paved horse-path I had seen on leaving Nissa, all of which tend to create the belief that this mountainous district of Upper Moesia was at one time very populous, and in the hands of a people who could appreciate it as a military position. But at how distant a period! period! Gigantic trees, now hoary with age, had sprung up among the ruins, showing that the devastation must have been wrought many centuries ago, and nothing had been repaired--not a stone replaced. Even the huts of the villagers, formed as they were of poles fastened together like a bee-hive, plastered with mud, and thatched with reeds, appeared as if they were constructed to be removed from place to place according to the caprice of the owner.

As we approached the town of Leskovatz, the valley of the Morava became more extended, and increased in beauty and fertility. Each of the minor streams, tributaries of the Morava, had its own tiny valley teeming with corn-fields, vineyards, and orchards. Villages lay grouped here and there, half hid from view at the base of some lofty hill or mountain, shaded by the dense foliage of fruit trees, among which the chesnut and walnut were the most noticeable. These villages, however primitive might be their construction, appeared to be the abodes of peace and happiness, to which the

lowing of oxen, the bleating of flocks and herds, imparted a peculiarly animated charm. In truth, the whole district presented such a picture of rural beauty that I could scarcely bring myself to believe I was travelling in European Turkey.

The aspect of the well-cultivated fields, so carefully weeded, and exhibiting the most abundant crops, afforded ample proof of the untiring industry of the people. The villages were deserted, for the women and children were everywhere to be seen pursuing some out-of-door occupation. Among these the indefatigable baba was ever the most prominent feature in the landscape; there she was with her eternal distaff, which received an occasional twirl, and that her employment in the fields should not be interrupted, her ingenuity had contrived a species of hammock, suspended on poles, for her infant, to which was attached a long cord, with the end fastened to her wrist, that she might rock it to sleep when it became restless. But it is not alone in agricultural labours, that the faithful helpmate of the Rayah exerts herself for the welfare of her family; the coarse woollen garments worn by herself, husband and children, are entirely fabricated by her who is at once spinner, weaver, and tailor.

The northern aspect of these beautiful valleys was appropriated to meadows and grazing-grounds, while the sweet south bloomed with orchards, corn-fields, and vineyards; in truth it was a perfect Arcadia, and in the absence of the feudal castle, or the rich man's mansion, afforded a picture of a patriarchal community. My

attention was also attracted to the care with which every drop of water from the rivulets was collected in reservoirs; these, though rudely constructed, effectually answered the purpose of irrigating the ground during the drought of summer. How often do we see in our civilized Europe, this fertilizing element left to waste itself in the channel nature had formed for it.

From local tradition, and other circumstances connected with the early history of the inhabitants of this mountain district, it is presumed that they have continued, from time immemorial, to cultivate the lands bequeathed to them by their forefathers; and though they have suffered for centuries from the extortions of rapacious Pachas and Spahis, their villages burnt, and their families driven forth, sometimes by the predatory inroads of their neighbours, the Spahis of Bosnia and Albania, and at others by the troops of the Sultan, when their own insubordination led to a contest against the authority of the Government, yet peace speedily healed the ills inflicted by strife, and led again to their return. To aid this, the authorities were always sufficiently inclined, for the state must be supported, the Pachas and Spahis must live, and the labour of the patient, hard-working Rayah must help to supply the funds for all. We ought, however, to observe that the Rayah had always a most efficient ally in the Haiduc of the mountains, who was ever ready to offer an asylum to his distressed brethren of the lowlands, until they were able to make terms with their rulers, and return in safety to their agricultural employments. In this